New to nitrous... looking for a lot of general help/suggestions...

Alright, I've been throwing around ideas for different possible routes I can take my car in since I am getting closer and closer to being able to afford a full rebuild for my engine. My goal is at least 10s, but I think I don't think I can be satisfied until I hit a single digit:p (BTW I am at 6ft above sea level so it probably won't be as hard as some think).

Many people have recommended me to go with a fully forged 383 and throw a nitrous-friendly cam in it. I plan on it being able to run high 11s to low 12s in naturally aspirated form, depending on how streetable I want it to be for daily driving(I'll be looking into this more later down the road).

I'm thinking that since it will be pretty much made just for the juice, I will try to throw as much as I can at it. I want to know how much it will take as a wet system before needing to go to a direct port system? I was hoping for at least a 200 shot, maybe 250.

I just know I don't want to go dry because of it's inherent flaw with running lean if something goes wrong.

Any suggestions you guys?

I know I'll be getting/need all of the safety equipment... I think that consists of purge, bottle warmer, window switch, N20 pressure gauge, fuel pressure gauge... what else am I forgetting?

Thanks!:)

To spray that large a shot wet down your intake I would consider a kit like the NX MAF kit. 94s have MAFS? Or was that still speed density? If no MAF then atleast the dual nozzle type setup that Nitro Dave sells.
I would aslo consider the dual stage mini controller. That has a built in window switch, TPS, and dual progressive controllers to limit that huge TQ hit. it will also allow you to spray more safely especially if you use it in RPM mode. That way you begin to add more nitrous as rpms climb. That reduces the chances of nitrous backfire in the intake. And since you will be spraying quite a large wet shot down the intake it may be advisable.

Goood luck!

Yes 94s have MAF.

I forgot to add I was planning on doing a dual stage and possibly a progressive controller as well because it would be such a huge increase(and from what it sounds like, since I can get that all in one unit I may as well get it).

So I take it this would be no problem for a wet kit then?

Would those times I outlined in my first post seem reasonable? Anyone with similar setups please chime in!:D

Your goals should be very attainable...atleast power wise. Suspension and chassis is another area. And you will need some of that good stuff to make this power work.

My old 383 was kind o weak my todays standards..it made right around 420 rwhp on motor and ran 11.5 at 120. I sprayed it with a 220 shot and it went 10.0 at 138 mph. It was tuned all the way to a 300 shot...although it never went down the track on full power.

I think with a quality kit like the MAF setup you will be able to spray the 200 shot. I get leary about spraying more than that down an intake. Althouhh some have. One thing for certain...either going dual stage or progressive will help with that issue. You can limit the shot size at lower rpm.

If you went dual stage you would need 4 noids and 2 sets of complete lines as well as a dual stage controller or two window switches. IMO it would be better to just a get a quality kit like the MAF setup for a single stage and use the FJO mini controller to act as the brains. That way its one set of noids and one controller. Should be cheaper and more capable doing it in theis manner. But of course thats all dependant on your budget.

But either way I would rcomend either the MAF kit of the dual nozzle setup Dave sells. Atleast something with two nozzles. Thats just my opinion.

I will post some dyno graphs later of how the NX controller does its thing. I have to get to work on my new motor right now.

Thanks for the help guys!:D