M6 Shift Knob Alignment
Just an FYI for anybody who has run into this:
I received my SLP Hurst shift **** for the Formy the other day. I immediately twisted off the old plastic **** to swap it in, only to find that the "tight" position was damn near backa$$wards. Damn!
A few hours later I came up with the solution: I went out to the garage and grabbed an assortment of small washers (different thicknesses) that would fit inside the shift **** handle. I then twisted the **** back off and tried different thickness washers until one made the **** tight in the correct position (worked with the second one). I then removed the **** again, loctited the threads, and reinstalled. Worked beautifully.
Just wanted to share. I did a search here, and couldn't find where this was previously addressed. This would really work to alighn any shift ****. Hope it helps someone!
I received my SLP Hurst shift **** for the Formy the other day. I immediately twisted off the old plastic **** to swap it in, only to find that the "tight" position was damn near backa$$wards. Damn!
A few hours later I came up with the solution: I went out to the garage and grabbed an assortment of small washers (different thicknesses) that would fit inside the shift **** handle. I then twisted the **** back off and tried different thickness washers until one made the **** tight in the correct position (worked with the second one). I then removed the **** again, loctited the threads, and reinstalled. Worked beautifully.
Just wanted to share. I did a search here, and couldn't find where this was previously addressed. This would really work to alighn any shift ****. Hope it helps someone!
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
you don't even need washers...a roll of masking tape will work. jsut cut small pieces and stick them to the top of the shifter stick...it doesn't take much thickness to get the **** aligned
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
I had the threads tapped into my skull shift **** (m16x1.50) to fit my hurst shifter and when i put it on it was backwards to. but my solution was to put liquid nails on the threads and let it dry in the position i wanted. needless to say, it's permanently on there and it feels like im shifting with and icecube in the colder months!!!!
Last edited by Sick97SS; Dec 6, 2005 at 07:47 PM.
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
I used some balled up newspaper and stuck that inside the **** little by little until it went straight. This way it's not on permanently in case the shifter breaks or something.
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
I remember one shift ball came with a nut that you would use to countertighten to hold the ball inplace however you want it. If you have a short stick then the boot would cover it as well.
For me, the H shift ball fit fine on the stock length stick. When I got my Lou's short stick though it was facing backwards. I just kept twisting though. I could have it face 12 oclock, but I find that if its at around 1030-110 oclock it fits better in my hand and is better accomodated to the way I shift. In fact, I hate driving it facing the normal way and when I put a shifter on my beater I did the same thing.
For me, the H shift ball fit fine on the stock length stick. When I got my Lou's short stick though it was facing backwards. I just kept twisting though. I could have it face 12 oclock, but I find that if its at around 1030-110 oclock it fits better in my hand and is better accomodated to the way I shift. In fact, I hate driving it facing the normal way and when I put a shifter on my beater I did the same thing.
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
Originally Posted by blackrat
I remember one shift ball came with a nut that you would use to countertighten to hold the ball inplace however you want it.
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
What in the world are you guys talking about washers and whatnot? I have a hurst shifter and I just have like a counter screw I tighten a certain ways down. Then from there I just figure it out. No washers or any of that whatnot.
Re: M6 Shift **** Alignment
Not all *****/stick combo's allow the "jam" nut style, nor do all ***** have set screws in the sides of them. Some of them, like the old-school MBA Billet ***** were just a threaded ball, and with a 1.25" cut-down Pro 5.0 Stick (My combo), there are no threads showing on the stick to even think about jam-nutting it. Thus you add washers inside the **** where the threads are. The spacers keep you from threading on all the way, and adjust the final "tight" spot for orientation of a logo or etc of the **** being used.
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