Has anyone swapped an automatic out w/ a T-56?

I just purchased a 6 speed and am needing some help tips. I know that many of you have performed this swap, so give me some tips, ideas, anything you got. Thanks.

Try researching this on www.thirdgen.org. Numerous people have done it and there should be plenty of information on it there.

I just purchased a 6 speed and am needing some help tips. I know that many of you have performed this swap, so give me some tips, ideas, anything you got. Thanks.
Hi...here you go....I did this project but I had a 5 speed already....heres a link that will help you all the way!!
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0502_swap/index.html

I've done a couple. YOu have any particular questions?

I've done a couple. YOu have any particular questions?

Well, not exactly, not yet at least. I havent got started w/ the project yet. Is there any huge tips that are key to speeding up the process and making things go smoothly? The guy Im purchasing it from, said he would include all hydraulics and pedals w/ the transmission. What parts do I need to get now? Just any kind of tips you have, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.

Your hardest problem will be getting the speedometer to work. The tech articles at http://www.thirdgen.org/ will show you the way.

Yeah hes right...getting your speedometer to work properly is a task. You have three options...Cable X box, Dakota Digital buffer box or changing out your mechanical speedo cluster to a electronic one like the on used in the '91-92 camaro's. I retained my cluster on my '89, I gutted out the mechanical speedo and put in a electronic speedo from Auto Meter and used the Dakota Digital buffer box.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm Cable x Box

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=105/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm

I'm doing the same swap..how much of a task is it to change over from the mechanical to the 91/92 electronic speedo?

I'm doing the same swap..how much of a task is it to change over from the mechanical to the 91/92 electronic speedo?
Heres a link u can look at
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105163&highlight=mechanical+gauge+cluster+electronic

If your car has an electronic speedo it's easy, just get the proper VSS. If it doesn't, pick up a gauge cluster that does and you're on your way. Mine was an '88 so I just had to get a new VSS with the right gears.

The toughest part will be drilling the firewall for the hydraulics. I pulled out the stock ones and set the new pedals in. Traced around the holes for the master cylinder and used that as a guide. Taking the brake booster out will make life alot easier. Also you may want to get a slave cylinder from Advance Auto Parts. I got one from them and the body is aluminum instead of plastic and it's got a bleeder screw in it that the factory one didn't have.

Will any eletronic speedo make life easy? Cause www.covansclassic.com has some electronic speedo's that look stock but arent. Will these work in a simiular fashion?

Aftermarket gauges are nice. I did that in my Trans Am, but they're expensive. Running a cable isn't too bad. I forgot that adding an electric speedo means you'd have to get a buffer too, may be a pain in the ass.

Will any eletronic speedo make life easy? Cause www.covansclassic.com has some electronic speedo's that look stock but arent. Will these work in a simiular fashion?
Rage..I left you an email and a picture of what I did...

If your car has an electronic speedo it's easy, just get the proper VSS. If it doesn't, pick up a gauge cluster that does and you're on your way. Mine was an '88 so I just had to get a new VSS with the right gears.

The toughest part will be drilling the firewall for the hydraulics. I pulled out the stock ones and set the new pedals in. Traced around the holes for the master cylinder and used that as a guide. Taking the brake booster out will make life alot easier. Also you may want to get a slave cylinder from Advance Auto Parts. I got one from them and the body is aluminum instead of plastic and it's got a bleeder screw in it that the factory one didn't have.

The t56 doesn't have a changable (as in there are different ones, there is only one style) vss...the sgi5 box from dakota will change the output so the computer/cruise/guages can understand it. That is, IF you already have electronic guages. I'd swap for the newer ones anyways that dash looks better to me if I had a maro. If you like you're dash an autometer 5" speedo and tach will fit in the guages panel with slight mods.

Any questions on the swap ask here or search the transmission board at thirdgen for a post by Mrdude_1 about the t56 swap. He goes into real good detail about everything you need to do the swap. Wiring, drawings, pictures, etc.

I did it last year and have been having fun rowing gears ever since.

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/113_0312_gen/

Hope this helps some.

Nick

I use a cable x and it works pretty good. Not the best, but a good option for those of us who like to keep it looking stock.

I swapped a T56 into my '84. I started by buying a 1987 cluster and a VSS buffer box. Then I added a Dakota Digital SGI-5 into the mix. Because my car was an early third-gen I then had to re-pin the cluster harness: 19 out of 20 wires needed to be re-routed. In addition, I needed to rewire the parking brake switch to the remote hatch release. I also had to find and wire in the clutch switch for the starter circuit. I left the reverse lockout solenoid unconnected, but I think that I might buy a Basic Stamp 1 PIC and set it up to watch VSS buffer activity, and arm the solenoid whenever the tailshaft of the transmission stops spinning. That way finding reverse will be a little bit easier.

You also need to cut out the shifter bracketry from the top of the transmission tunnel then cut yourself a hole that goes about two inches farther back than the T5. You'll need to get the T5 shift bezel for your Camaro along with the shift boot, which will also sit two inches farther back than the T5 application.

Cutting the holes for the clutch shouldnt be much of a problem, but installing the pedal assembly might be an issue. My car had a cutout template build right into the sound deadener padding and that made it easy to see where I was supposed to cut.

It helps to remove the master cylinder and brake booster when doing the swap, as well as the combo valve. That way you can see everything. In addition, you might find (as I did) and it is easier to install the bell housing onto the engine first, then bolt the transmission to the bell housing.

Cheers,
--Dan