Spohn TA and Moser 12

This is a problem I've been having since I've had the Spohn TA, the bolts backing out. Anyways car is down for the engine swap and I've got some time on my hands. I was looking at the Moser and I think I could make the "front" bolt a thru bolt with a little bit of grinding. The place on the rear where I'd be grinding doesn't appear like it would introduce any weakness into the housing.

Anyone done this. I'm tired of always tightening these bastards. I've tried it all, loctite, loc-washers.

Those are nylon nuts. Aren't those suppose to be beefy. Those suckers are hard to turn..let alone backout. Have you tried replacing the nylon nuts with new ones.
Your talking about the actual mounting that use the nylon nuts or the other nuts that attach the arm which are plain ol' nuts?

Those are nylon nuts. Aren't those suppose to be beefy. Those suckers are hard to turn..let alone backout. Have you tried replacing the nylon nuts with new ones.
Your talking about the actual mounting that use the nylon nuts or the other nuts that attach the arm which are plain ol' nuts?

No, the nuts that mount the TA to the rear, they're not nylon. The four bolts, 2 top, two bottom, to the rear end housing. They vibrate and back out.

On my TA I used two Nylon locking nuts for the 2 bolts on the rear differential housing. pic (http://www.z28cave.com/forumgallery/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0151.JPG)

The upper bolts that attach the Arm to the rear mount I used regular nuts. I torqued all the bolts with the suspension loaded.

93ZM6Tally,
I understand what you are talking about ;) ,I have the same problem with my 12-bolt and Spohn TA :cry: , I just got done tighting those exact 4 bolts on my car a couple hours ago, I don't know what to do to stop them from backing out :confused: , it is a real pain in the ass isn't it!!!! :mad: If you find a good way please let me know!!!! :D

On my TA I used two Nylon locking nuts for the 2 bolts on the rear differential housing. pic (http://www.z28cave.com/forumgallery/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0151.JPG)

The upper bolts that attach the Arm to the rear mount I used regular nuts. I torqued all the bolts with the suspension loaded.

I don't think you have a Moser 12 bolt from the pictures you're showing. It's looks to me like you have a stock rear or maybe a 9 inch that has through bolts. The bolts on a Moser 12 bolt are not through bolts and there's no place to put a locking nut.

93ZM6Tally,
I understand what you are talking about ;) ,I have the same problem with my 12-bolt and Spohn TA :cry: , I just got done tighting those exact 4 bolts on my car a couple hours ago, I don't know what to do to stop them from backing out :confused: , it is a real pain in the ass isn't it!!!! :mad: If you find a good way please let me know!!!! :D

I think I'm going to try and grind a little off of the Moser casting enough to allow a through bolt in the front. I'll let you know. BTW I've already ground enough on the top front bolt to where I can get a lock nut on it. Helped a lot, but the other three will stil work loose.

I don't think you have a Moser 12 bolt from the pictures you're showing. It's looks to me like you have a stock rear or maybe a 9 inch that has through bolts. The bolts on a Moser 12 bolt are not through bolts and there's no place to put a locking nut.

My bad since I don't have one and yep I have a stock rear and was just refering to the nuts. I have seen a few rough pics of a moser and I was under the assumption that the bolts go straight through..just trying to help. Do you have any close-up pics of the mount I can see, for knowledge sake. Appreciate it, thanks.

Had some pics, but don't know where they are. Basically the Moser 12 just has four tapped holes, in which go bolts that are about 1". I've already had to helicoil the front bolt hole once because of this problem. Spohn has talked with Moser and was told that they know, but aren't going to do anything about it right now. My advice, get the 9 or a Strange.

Before I ordered my Strange rear I talked to Steve Spohn about that very problem, and its one of the reasons he is now a Strange dealer. He said the only way to keep the bolts from backing out is tack welding the heads to the TA...

--Alan

I only have a few miles on my Moser, but I threw on quite a bit of loctite for this reason. Anyone else use loctite successfully?

Ryan

No, Loctite doesn't work if you plan on beating on the car and having fun, If you drive like a old man its fine but if not, tack welding the bolts should solve your problems!!!

I was considering welding the whole bracket to the housing, but I guess tacking the bolts is a less drastic solution. But heck, even if the bracket was welded you could get the TA off by removing the rod end connections.

I thought the same identical thing at first about welding the whole bracket to the rearend but then decided on tacking the bolts to the bracket!!!!

Hmm..good point. I have only lightly beaten on the rear about 3 times at the track. Even then, I was only cutting 2.8 60' short times (I wasn't beting the $#@$ out of it).

Maybe if you bought longer bolts and used loctite? Sorry if I sounds like an idiot, but I'm just trying to think logically. Longer bolts, more loctight? That waqy the threads engage completely in the housing. Good idea?

I bought new, (grade 8) longer hardware and used the strongest loctite once I installed my 12bolt.

The only complate about my 12bolt is that its weak. I read about plenty of 12bolt/6spd massacres on ls1tech. Great. 2grand and this POS still breaks if you look at it too mean :mad:.

Ryan

What about safety wiring the bolts? I used loctite on mine and it has held for two years through autoX drag and daily driving.

FWIW I spot welded the bolts to the TA bracket. I haven't moved/run the car yet so I don't know how it will work for sure, but I'm thinking it should be fine.