How much power can a full bolt on LS1 make?

Just wondering how much power a full bolt-on A4 LS1 Firehawk (1999) can make with proper tuning and what kind of 1/4 mile times should it run. The following is what I mean by full bolt on car.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats
LS6 intake
Underdrive pulley
SLP lid and ram air package
Smooth bellows
Larger throttle body
Larger MAF
Dyno tuning
1.8 rockers
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler
Shift kit
3.73 gears
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar
SLP torque arm
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17

Why not ask on the LS1/LS2....... Tech forum? :)

Moving it there........

let's see.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats- probably 30hp with proper tuning.
LS6 intake- powerband mod mostly, you'll notice better throttle responce, but not much in the realm of hp gain. probably ~5-8hp max
Underdrive pulley-10hp
SLP lid and ram air package lid=10hp give or take, ram air package is useless
Smooth bellows-appearance mod
Larger throttle body- useless if you arn't running forced induction
Larger MAF-same
Dyno tuning- goes without saying
1.8 rockers- not much use, but you could probably get 5hp out of that
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler- here we go. expect a .4-.6 reduction in ET.
Shift kit- not technically needed, but would probably be best
3.73 gears- a must for drag
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar
SLP torque arm
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17- careful with that rear end dude! 3.73s+radials+power does not stack well for your stock 10 bolt.

Overall, we're looking at maybe 340-360whp properly tuned. Expect ET's (at sealevel) of in the 12s for sure, probably very low 12s.

I would recommend saving some money on the unnecessarily expensive LTs and useless throttle body and putting it toward your 12 bolt. you'll need it.

Also, where's your catback? you'll need something less restrictive than stock, unless you're doing dumps anyway. I recommend the Magnaflow catback.

How much does a 12bolt run and how hard is the install?

SLP LTs and high flow cats will not get you 30HP more like a solid 15HP.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats-20rwhp
LS6 intake-8-10rwhp
Underdrive pulley-5-10rwhp
SLP lid and ram air package-5-10rwhp
Smooth bellows-0rwhp
Larger throttle body- ported stocker, or 80mm will yeild the same...5rwhp
Larger MAF-0rwhp
Dyno tuning-willbe needed to get all these gains
1.8 rockers-10rwhp
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler-will lower your rwhp, but the best mod so far...
Shift kit-0rwhp
3.73 gears-will also lower your rwhp on the dyno, but a great mod
Boxed lower control arms and panhard bar-0rwhp
SLP torque arm-0rwhp
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17-0rwhp

Soooo, you could see upwards of a 50rwhp gain. You will gain more if your car was initially a slug on the dyno and less if it was a "freak"...

1.8 rockers ... if it touches oil it's not a bolt on.

Between 330 and 345 rwhp. Don't sweat the 10 bolt, just preload the converter instead of flashing it ... I put 500 passes on mine and that was with slicks and the last 100 were H/C, before it went.

Times ... low 13s to mid 12s. Depends on how well you set up your suspension and how good you are at tuning it in for track conditions ... and of course how well you drive.

low 13s with all that work??? most ls1s run 13.0-13.5 stock...with some tires and those bolt ons? i say low 12 mid 12s....

1.8 rockers ... if it touches oil it's not a bolt on.

Between 330 and 345 rwhp. Don't sweat the 10 bolt, just preload the converter instead of flashing it ... I put 500 passes on mine and that was with slicks and the last 100 were H/C, before it went.

Times ... low 13s to mid 12s. Depends on how well you set up your suspension and how good you are at tuning it in for track conditions ... and of course how well you drive.

How do you figure "if it touches oil it's not a bolt on"? Last time i checked, rockers bolted on. I've seen bolt on ls1's in the deep 12's

I've seen LS1's run 14's too.

Ok, let me get my Ricer HP calculator out....
[(+ advertised gains of each part) X the cool name] - (smaller injectors x push rod engine) / domestic ... I need to know what color the car is to get a close estimate but 325-350 whp.

I don't know about an A4 but quite a few M6 guys get over 350 rwhp w/ all boltons. I'd say 345-350 is average though.

How do you figure "if it touches oil it's not a bolt on"? Last time i checked, rockers bolted on. I've seen bolt on ls1's in the deep 12's


Cam and heads "bolt on" too ... I draw the line if oil touches it.

And yeah I've seen lot's of bolt on LS1s in the low 12s ... I own one - see my sig. I also seen a guy copy me mod for mod and never got it under 13.3, before he put it in the wall on his 5th pass.

For every full bolt on LS1 I see in the mid to low 12s, I see 2 full bolt on LS1s that barely make it out of the 13s. Like I said it depends on how well the guy can tune his set up and how well he drives. If he doesn't own a tire guage and has heavy foot, he may see the wall before he sees a 12.

I'd give him low 12s, but he has 17" wheels and those will hold him back until he goes to a lighter wheels.

SLP longtubes with high flow cats- make it paceseter no cats and save $500
LS6 intake - good idea, but negligable
Underdrive pulley - master tuner in my area says :rolleyes:
SLP lid and ram air package - lid is a must, ram air DOES help
Smooth bellows - i wasted $50, why shouldn't you?
Larger throttle body - not until FI or heads and cam
Larger MAF - same as throttle body
Dyno tuning - goes without saying
1.8 rockers - um... sure? not a bolt on tho, lotta work
Yank 3500 convertor with trans cooler - absolutely.
Shift kit - not a power adder, but needed
3.73 gears - absolutely
Boxed lower control arms and panhardbar - this is DRAG racing not autocross
SLP torque arm - when you make serious power, yes
BFG drag radials p275/40/r17 - get some slicks, and use that converter

all and all, once you get the hang of it, and mediocre weather, i put you at 350 rwhp and about a 12.5 at 106-107

i'm on the fence as to whether rockers are bolt on or not.

i mean...to run 1.8 rockers you have to swap springs...that goes a bit beyond "bolt on"

then again...a converter touches trans fluid...does that count as an oil?

then again...a converter touches trans fluid...does that count as an oil?


yeah.... but.... i dunno


i consider rearend gears a bolt on...


but


i think... once you start f'in around with engine internals... its not a "bolt on"

Depends where you race (track prep, DA, etc)

I have bolt-ons only (3800 stall, QTP headers and ORY-pipe, LSX intake, MTI ported TB, lid/filter, ASP pulley, cutout, 3.73 gears) and ran a best of 11.75 @ 115 (@ Maryland International Raceway) with two other 11.7 runs, and a 11.8.

My car ran a 12.9 with a lid, SFC's, and drag radials. So yeah, whoever is saying anywhere NEAR the 13's is either racing in Denver or is smoking the pipe. I say high 11s to low 12s if you can manage a 1.5x 60' (gonna be tricky with DRs)

Only way to know is get your ass out there and try it! Good luck :thumb:

For suspension, start off with subframe connectors, lower control arms, and relocation brackets. Maybe a panhard rod to help stay straight. That and some good drag radials will be most all of the traction you need for a bolt on car

Before you even think about modding the car with horsepower mods and taking it to the dragstrip, I suggest you start off with what I call Dragstrip-Prep Mods, or mods that won't make your car any quicker or faster, but they'll protect what already came on the car from the factory. I'm talking about subframe connectors to keep your subframes straight and to minimize quarter-panel dimples, rear-end girdle to strenghten your rear end, an automatic transmission cooler to keep your transmission temperatures down, and (most importantly) proper maintenance.

As far as your list of mods go, you'll probably get significantly more gains with a much better exhaust system. In ls1tech.com, I've read about people that went from the factory exhaust to a completely upgraded exhaust system that consisted of Kooks longtubes, y-pipe with hi flo cats, and a catback. Along with a dyno-tune, these same people have actually achieved a 50 rwhp increase!

As far as your induction mods go, I've heard that you will want to stay away from even touching the MAF, because any modifications to it might make it really hard for your tuner to tune the car. Also, other induction mods such as an underhood cold air induction, lid, and ported throttle body might not show up as a gain on the dyno since you won't have a high-velocity fan blowing air into the car during a dyno-run. I've read that those bolt-on induction mods are significant on the dragtrip and you'll get more horsepower out of them than what some people above me have said.

I would say, at best, you can get between 50 and 60 rwhp with just the horsepower mods that I recommended above. As for the quarter mile, I would say mid to high 12's at 110 MPH.

:confused:

mid to high 12 :eek:

you do realize that a few guys were able to pull high 12s bone stock with sticky tires right??

not saying all LS1s are able to do that...but most are low 13s driven well.

a FULL bolt on car should be able to nearly hit 11s

:confused:

mid to high 12 :eek:

you do realize that a few guys were able to pull high 12s bone stock with sticky tires right??

not saying all LS1s are able to do that...but most are low 13s driven well.

a FULL bolt on car should be able to nearly hit 11s

I know. I've also seen a timeslip where an '01 WS6 A4 pulled a 1.9xx 60' and got 12.9x@107-108 MPH completely bone-stock on stock tires set at 30 psi. It's better to expect the worse or the average than to expect the best possible timeslips.

A local guy around here went Internally Stock: 11.76 @ 114.53 MPH w/ 1.60 sixty foot :)

Well I have just about all you can bolt on with only 328hp+ 344 torque at the wheels.

i never truly understood the bolt on thing. technically, dont you bolt on a s/c? bolt down a nos bottle?

Well I have just about all you can bolt on with only 328hp+ 344 torque at the wheels.

Did you get a dyno-tune? If you have an A4, then was your dyno locked or unlocked? A ported throttle body is another good bolt-on.

yeah no kidding.

wasn't it Keliente that dynoed 42hp gain from headers, ls6 intake and a dyno tune?

but there is also mods like true duals for a little more peak power, even over the LM. not to mention the electric waterpump.

That was a dyno-tune it's a M6 we didn't realize it at the time but the car was misfiring they thought I had an after market cam the way the car was idling. I’m thinking maybe that throw the dyno off a bit.

geez...why did you even bother posting the numbers than :confused:

that's kindda like comparing 3 mile cross country times from an olymian who has branchitis
:no:

geez...why did you even bother posting the numbers than :confused:

that's kindda like comparing 3 mile cross country times from an olymian who has branchitis
:no:

Thanks for the advice. :eek:

well...

if you knew the car was running like ****...why would you volunteer the dyno number for someone looking to see how much bolt on cars can make.

well...

if you knew the car was running like ****...why would you volunteer the dyno number for someone looking to see how much bolt on cars can make.

I thought the role of a supporting member was to offer advise not insult fellow members. If you can't take a hint by now I'm a novice to Automobile mechanics other than changing my own engine oil. You might consider using logic before just assuming like an F---ing idiot.

Ok, lets try to remember we are here to help each other. Let's get back on track here. Thanks!

Ok, lets try to remember we are here to help each other. Let's get back on track here. Thanks!

You complete me.

SLP High Flow Airbox Lid W/ K&N Filter
SLP High Flow Bellows
SLP Ported/Polished Throttle body
SLP I.A.T. Sensor

SLP Long Tube Headers
Random Technology High Flow Cats
SLP 3" Y-Pipe
3" Borla Cat-Back


LS1 Edit
Talor Spiro-Pro 10.4 Plug Wires
NGK-R TR55 Plugs
Throttle Body bypass
EGR Mod
Ram-Air mod (cut out under filter)

All worth 336 rwhp/346 RWTQ

not to bust your bubble or anything dude but teke is a supporting member... a supporting member is just a person who pays 12 dollars to have an avatar pretty much.

not to bust your bubble or anything dude but teke is a supporting member... a supporting member is just a person who pays 12 dollars to have an avatar pretty much.

Thats besides the point I was told along time ago if you can't say anything good then don't. :D

Thats besides the point I was told along time ago if you can't say anything good then don't. :D

Here's a new one, don't skew a post with numbers that aren't relevent and act like they are. This really doesn't help anyone. In other words, this is, "a half truth makes a whole lie".

Attacking Teke makes you look like the bad one. You're the one that started with insulting names. His post was a valid question.

Ben

not to bust your bubble or anything dude but teke is a supporting member... a supporting member is just a person who pays 12 dollars to have an avatar pretty much.


awwww i have an avatar but im not a supporting member!!!!! ;)

- cory-

Here's a new one, don't skew a post with numbers that aren't relevent and act like they are. This really doesn't help anyone. In other words, this is, "a half truth makes a whole lie".

Attacking Teke makes you look like the bad one. You're the one that started with insulting names. His post was a valid question.

Ben

Perhaps you should take the time to fully read the maine issue insults are beside the point.Teke could have could me an a hole I don't care as long as he gives a resolution to fix my issue. If you cant offer positive feed back then don’t. I mean seriously at what point in life do we start to act like an adult if your over 18 you should start. Now if you care to offer some advice for my issue thanks if not go find a child to argue with.

Does anyone seriously believe that if I get another dyno for my car it will actually show more than than 328 hp+344 torque at the wheels since I did have a misfire at the time of the 1st dyno? Please I need people with real world experience to advise not just shoot theories. :eek:

Does anyone seriously believe that if I get another dyno for my car it will actually show more than than 328 hp+344 torque at the wheels since I did have a misfire at the time of the 1st dyno? Please I need people with real world experience to advise not just shoot theories. :eek:

I'm afraid you won't find much "real world" experience. Most people only dyno a car that is running well. I'll not give my theory as you asked to not hear it.

Ben T.

Well I have a MTI transparent lidw/paper filter and a flowmaster CB and FRA for mods and getting 327 HP 335 TQ not bad for 3 mods huh.

Does anyone seriously believe that if I get another dyno for my car it will actually show more than than 328 hp+344 torque at the wheels since I did have a misfire at the time of the 1st dyno? Please I need people with real world experience to advise not just shoot theories. :eek:

Why don't you just get it dyno'ed again?

Well I have a MTI transparent lidw/paper filter and a flowmaster CB and FRA for mods and getting 327 HP 335 TQ not bad for 3 mods huh.

I always have to ask since I don't see it in your sig, but you have an M6, right? If so, then the Flowmasters were higher flowing than I thought. My best dyno with a completely stock Z28 was only 294.51 RWHP. If I add another 5% to that (since I'm guessing that you have the M6), then you should have 309.24 RWHP if you had the restrictive factory Z28 exhaust. But you're getting 327 RWHP with the Flowmasters being your only real horsepower mod on the dyno--induction mods only show horsepower gains when you have a high velocity fan blowing against your car during the dyno. Looks like you're getting another 17.76 rwhp with just the Flowmaster catback. I always thought they were one of the more restrictive exhausts in the aftermarket. Did the car have the SLP dual duals when you bought it?

Why don't you just get it dyno'ed again?

I will doubt it will show more than 8 hp gain. Too clear some confusion up the car sounded a little different when there was a misfire it ran fast has hell I could not notice any power lost. So I ran some fuel cleaner then finally got a service engine soon light. So it was clear I couldn’t fix it myself .I took it back to have the 1 freaking spark plug replaced issue fixed same place I had the dyno done they would not offer to do another dyno.

It is an A4 and I did have the high velocity fan blowing the flowmaster will give you a good 7-8 HP.

wow...thanks for sticking up for me...i guess...


anyway...

damon

you have "lid" confused with "ram air"

a lid WILL give you gains on the dyno. the inside of the lid is less restrictive, as is the outlet going towards the maf....
lids are PROVEN 7-10hp on a dyno.

now a ram air....that isn't really fuctional on a dyno...

I thought the role of a supporting member was to offer advise not insult fellow members. If you can't take a hint by now I'm a novice to Automobile mechanics other than changing my own engine oil. You might consider using logic before just assuming like an F---ing idiot.
I think someone needs to take there own advice... calling someone a f***ing idiot is very nice so, like u say, u shouldnt have said anything at all... teke has given many people great advice/opinions for a while now. he def knows a thing or two so just chill out.

It is an A4 and I did have the high velocity fan blowing the flowmaster will give you a good 7-8 HP.

That's mind-blowing, man! You should definitely get in the really low 13's to high 12's with that set up.

wow...thanks for sticking up for me...i guess...


anyway...

damon

you have "lid" confused with "ram air"

a lid WILL give you gains on the dyno. the inside of the lid is less restrictive, as is the outlet going towards the maf....
lids are PROVEN 7-10hp on a dyno.

now a ram air....that isn't really fuctional on a dyno...

hmmm...Interesting. I gotta do more research on this.

That's mind-blowing, man! You should definitely get in the really low 13's to high 12's with that set up.

:bow:
Ben T.