what oil with boosted s/c 383 lLT1 motor

ey whats going on everybody?
I have been trying to read up on everything but im curious on what kind of oil you guys use weight?brand?..thanks for your help

Castrol RS 10-60

[QUOTE=Lisa33]Castrol RS 10-60[/Qwow I didnt know I should go that thick...Lisa I was checking out your sig and it says you made 13 psi with the p1 what size pulley where you running??

had a 7,65/3,1" combo true twin highflow IC cc305 and lightported heads.

About thick oil, I got a killer deal on 10-60 and accourding to the shop that did the machinwork on my block it should work fine, It wasnt nessesery to go 10-60 but it shouldnt hurt either.

After i broke a couple of pistons last autoum i cheacked and replaced the bearings and the looked like new after 1 season so i guess the oil works like it should.

ake eliasson

SYNTHETIC!!!! I have had great luck running Red Line Synthetic polyol ester based oils for years. I would do the initial break in on good old petrol and then switch to the Red Line in about 3,000 miles. Use a very high quality filter( NOT FRAM), Ac Delco is a good filter or whatever you prefer. THere are so many benefits to running the man made stuff, especially when you are trying to protect expensive parts. Petrol doesnt even compare in that category and it has been documented.

ok what weight oil should I do the break in with??which is better royal purp or RL ??

Is your motor using stock clearances? If yes, you could run 5w-30. Or 10w-30. But really, you won't be going very high in terms of RPM during initial break-in. The most important thing to do is buy a high quality petrol ( I like Castrol GTX or mobil). Biggest thing you need to do is change the oil after you run it initially( and filter). I would highly recommend RED LINE! :bow: Ultimately, there really is no best sythetic. I would buy Mobil 1 before I would buy Royal Purple. The reason is two fold , Mobil like Red Line have been at this sythetic thing for a long time, and there isn't any third party testing ( to my knowledge) that has been done with respect to Royal Purple. Im not saying it isnt good, I just think Red Line is a much more superior product. After break-in depending on you use/needs I would run the 10w-30. I live in AZ, so I run the 10w-40 for the heat. Sythetics do lubricate diffrently with respect to viscosity when compared to petroleum based products because of their makeup and mainly the addative package. Check out this site www.redlineoil.com.

Ive always been told that you should NEVER break in your engine with synthetic oils. It lubricates too good and it won't allow your piston rings to seat. After that, Ive been running the recomended 5w-30 Mobil 1. Ill prolly be switching to Royal Purple soon caus' I just saw a demonstration and I was impressed.

In my above post I recommend breaking the engine in on regular old petrol. After the rings have seated, it is then ok to switch to the sythetic of your choice. Most synthetic oil companies have recommendations for when it is safe to switch to an ultra slippery syn oil, although factory corvettes, vipers and some mercedes and BMW cars come factory filled with mobil 1. I have been told this is ok because they have a special cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores that allows for fast seating of the rings from the factory. But yes, you should NEVER break in a motor on synthetic oil.

I think I may just break it in with some 10-40 then after about 1500 miles Ill switch over to 10-40 redline...O yea who has some good tips on breaking in a new engine???things I should do?and shouldnt do??and how often to change the oil during the break in?

Initial startup on "cheap" regular oil, change oil after first start up-
150 miles on "cheap" regular 10-40 oil beafore i changed to synthetic.
Never more than 3-4psi boost and now hard "engine break" thats it.
I guess that a lot of "experts" gona have opinions about this but itworks great for us and a lot of "rally" cars.
ake

I've run 10w-30 syn on a blown 12 psi motor. Now going to a 15w-50 redline. Also, I have have problems with oil leaks front cover and rear main. Even with two breathers. So... I added 1/2 qt of lucas oil stabilizer. The leaks are gone. Even after replacing the rear seal twice.