does your LS1 burn bubber easily when you go WOT from 5-10 mph?

Mine doesn't at all and it's difficult to chirp the tires from 1st to second. The car is slower than my 89 5.0 stang. I feels like it's gotten slower with more miles, only have 1350. I should of bought a v-6 camaro instead since mine performs like one. No I haven't had it dynoed yet. I'm waiting until 3000 miles to do that. I don't have any good local tracks to run at. There's Irwindale and that's over a hour away and that's just a 1/8 track. Then there's the trash house Carlsbad, which I absolutely won't drive my black car on that dirt road. I got a dude LS1 I think.:mad:

In 1st gear with the ASR off of course.

get a friend or a local CZ28 guy to meet up with you and you try his and they try yours.. then compare.. if yours is slow and feels like its a dud then you may have some issue that needs addressing.. the dyno and the graph should tell you alot so I would get one ASAP.. Dont worry so much about the miles as mine hasnt felt different at all.. Only when I changed the oil and I know that I must be crazy for thinking that, but it really did feel smoother.. not faster persay but smoother...

I have gotten a 4th on a dry asphalt road.. so chiping or breaking the tires loose has never been a problem..

get your car to a complete stop.. flat road.. mash the gas and drop the clutch at 2000 rpm.. does it sit still the launch or gradually go while spinning the tires? or perhaps it just bogs.. in either case.. find out..

or try while you are moving the 5-10mph , add some cluth, move the rpms back up and drop it.. that should be violent.. hehe

see if anyone is near you that has an LS1 M6

You must have gotten a dud , my 99 A4 will chirp shiftin' to second.

i have an a4 w/ 3.73's and too much spin is an issue on these GSC's

I spin a little in 1st from a slow roll but not nearly as bad as my '96 did. However, I can spin pretty good on the 1-2 shift (not just a little chirp) and I can chirp the 2-3 every time. I've even got a little chirp out of the 3-4 shift at the track a couple times.
I wouldn't worry about the car not smokin' the tires in 1st but you should be able to chirp the 1-2 pretty easily and shouldn't have to much of a problem doing the same on the 2-3.

Yesterday while getting on the freeway I had some dumb idiot that I had to get by so I went wot in 1st and second revving to 5500 in both gears and didn't get even a chirp. Hell my stang which I know has lower gears in the trans can burn rubber easily hitting the gas at 20mph in 1st and every time going into second. My camaro should be and feel a hell of a lot faster than the 203 rwhp the stangs puts out. I live in Mission Viejo, Ca Orange County.

ford dealer and trade it in on your beloved 'stang'. why the hell did you get a camaro in the first place when u are obviuosly a 'stang' lover. Hey, I'll take your car off your hands for ya!

mine burns rubber not "bubber" lol...damn mustang lovers:p hehehe ;)
Rick

Originally posted by PhatT/A
mine burns rubber not "bubber" lol...damn mustang lovers:p hehehe ;)
Rick

Burns blubber, I'll take one.

if thats the case I'LL TAKE TWO!:D
Rick

Torque peak is at 4200 rpm stock... it should feel a bit slower down low then your old 5.0... when you get more miles on her open her up... at about 4500 you will crap yourself (compared to the stang)

At first I thought my z felt the same as my 98 GT... then I pressed the pedal all the way down... no comparison. If it doesnt get your heart going... even just a little ... you have a dud

blacknight, all I have to say is be patient. When I first bought my SS in 99 I was very disappointed as well. I could barley chirp the tires from a power brake launch. My 95 z28 would fry the tires at anything less than 20mph and it felt much stronger. After about 7000-8000 miles the car felt stronger and I could break the tires loose much easier. I don't know how many miles it's going to take for your car because no two cars are the same but it will happen eventually provided there is nothing wrong with your car. Good luck with the car and it will be interesting to see what #'s you put up if you get the car dynoed.

Your car obviously has a problem, I don't see why you're even asking anyone on this board what the problem is, you should be at a shop or the dealership. These cars are MUCH faster and more powerful than your beloved 5.0. Don't get me wrong I don't dislike mustang 5.0's they did their job well, but an LS1 is a vastly superior and more powerful engine and you shouldn't be having any problems spinnin' the tires at will. You need to go to a track or dyno if you aren't going to take it to a shop and stop whining about how you wish it was a 5.0. There's something wrong, so fix it!:rolleyes:

sorry for starting the sarcasm, but why do you keep talking up your 'stang' on camaroz28.com? I love my 98 Z28 and wished I could get a 2002 so I could park my ass in an F-body for a longer time. guess my hatred of mustangs has something to do with my sarcasm also!!!!! MY OFFER STILL STANDS, I'll take your car...

I'm not a mustang lover. The whole reason I bought my LS1 is because the engine is supposed to be so strong. I love the looks of late model camaro's and firebirds. I think my stang is ugly and I can never believe how anybody would buy a new gt over a LS1 which costs about the same. I sure pray that my car justs needs more mileage. My camaro should totally destroy my stang. I have revved her to 5500 about 6 times and she didn't really shove my back in the seat at all. Only time will tell. At this time however I have the slowest LS1.

Look black....u have a dud.

I owned an 89 Gt and could chirp the hell out of it, but the z28 can do the same and its much faster. I can't feel the difference in first gear, but once rpms climb in 2nd gear...FORGET IT DUDE stang/can't hang. Screw that miles thing you doing. I test drove a z28 with 22 miles on it and the joint flew. Something is obviously wrong.

Can I burn them up froma 5-10mph roll? Hell, I can do it from a 35-40mph roll on a good day:D

When I got my SS they filled it up with regular gas. After all, the manual says it will run on 87 octane. But it will lose some performance. They also filled it up once when I went back for some additional paperwork. It ran like a dog with that crap in there. Be sure you run Supreme all the time. Even if you just use regular or mid grade every now and then, the PCM will learn the decreased power settings and retard the timing to avoid knock. It took a whill to get it running good after this but it finally did relearn the settings for performance mode. Mine also felt sluggish until after it had about 5,000 miles or so. It seems much faster now than it was when new. I now have 11,000 miles. Last weekend I ran it on a roadcourse and it was very fast. I beat Stang GT's by 5 seconds and even an '03 Cobra by over 3 seconds on a 68 second track. Z06's were running 64.X with race tires. I have Yokohama AVS-I street tires and 16 inch wheels.

Try recalibrating the PCM by disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes. Once you reconnect it, go drive the p*ss out of it. Let it know you want it to run. You'll probably see an improvement. Just be sure to use Supreme gas at all times.

Otherwise there is something wrong. It could be a bad knock sensor causing the PCM to retard the timing in error. It could be anything. An autotap or dealership can hook the car up and tell exactly what the sensors are reading and diagnose the problem for sure.

There is also a little thing called torque management programmed into our cars. After a shift the TM reduces the amount of available torque for a second to keep you from spinning the rear wheels by mistake. I don't know about the HPP3 but the Predator will program this out of the picture. Then you should be able to go through a set of tires in just days rather than having to wait months and months for new rubber. :D (TM is seperate from TCS. Traction control relies on sensors to dictate what action it takes. TM from what I understand is always there every time you upshift.)

...on a hard 1st to 2nd shift, at almost ANY RPM, especially higher up (obviously), those tires should be breaking loose like crazy!
Good luck with this man, hope things get better

I think this post is somewhat misleading and here's why: We're not getting enough info from this guy.

You say you can't get the tires to chirp or spin from a 5-10mph roll in 1st gear? But at what rpm are you going WOT from at that point? Typically, you'll be in the low rpms at those speeds after just taking off from a dead stop unless you use your clutch aggressively to get up into the higher rpms immediately at a low speed. Basically, an M6 will be a total DOG if you floor the car from the above-mentioned roll while in the lower rpms. Of course the car will be slower because its completely out of its powerband. You'll generally feel the power of an LS1 starting at about 3,000rpm's during a 1st gear roll(usually not a chirp w/ 3.42's, but you'll definitely feel it). And my Z would easily chirp/bark the tires from 4,000 & up during a 1st gear roll(no downshifting) when it was bone stock! From a dead stop, I absolutely could NOT keep my car from spinning and laying rubber during a dead stop launch(only using like 1,500-2,000rpm's). :D

Also, what kind of pavement are you on? A lot of times that can actually keep a car from burning up the tires. Weather also plays a part(cold vs warm).

I don't think your car is a dud at all. Maybe your just not use to driving an LS1 yet? Their power is very deceiving(and smooth). They "feel" weak in the lower rpms(even though their OK) but their peak torque in stock application is 4,200rpm's and peak horsepower is about 5,400rpm's or so. Just try getting your car into the 4,000-5,000rpm range right at the time you go WOT and you won't stop smiling all day. :eek: LS1's make their power up high. So getting on it down low won't help.

Mike

2002 M6 Z28

Originally posted by MARSTAUT
You must have gotten a dud , my 99 A4 will chirp shiftin' to second.
mine too:D

Here's what's going on. If I go wot at any rpm in 1st the tires won't break loose. Shifting into second at even 6000rpm I have only gotten the tires to slightly bark once. Tonight of course the car decided to run like it had 50% more power with the colder air and no smog. I completely know that the colder the air the denser the air charge and hense more power. However the difference shouldn't be so huge. I read articles of LS1's running low 13's and even high 12's stock in 90+ temps. Even though it ran better tonight I still couldn't get a chirp shifting. Maybe there is a faulty sensor that's causing it to run like a dog in the smog. The air temp lately has been in the upper 60's during the day and about 10 degrees colder at night. As far as what gas I use it's Union 76 91 octane, Cal only has 91. On a previous fillup I used 91 and tried a octane booster because it helped other cars of mine run better. No it didn't run better or worse with the booster. For now on I will use only Chevron 91.
If I reset the pcm will that screwup the electric odometer or oil change tripometer? Will it set the trip back to 0? If not I will reset the pcm tomorrow and will drive the piss out of it like one said. I really appreciate all the feedback and idea's. Keep them coming.

Dont forget if you reset the PCM to write down or find out your stereo's security code. Once you disconnect the batt you will have to enter it to make the radio work again.

I run 93 octane most of the time, but if I plan to run the piss out of it (track/autocross) I step up to the 94 octane and give her a good hard run or few to get the computer in the "go" mood. With this nice cold air (we are freezing+/-) she has been real tail happy at WOT in 3rd at 4500+ rpms... like it wants to rip the tires loose charging straight and hard in 3rd :eek:

Shifting at WOT at 6k should produce tire shreds and nothing less. Sounds like you have some sort of sensor problem... no SES light? Check under the hood and count plug wires... make sure you got 8 :D Seriously tho, if disconnecting the PCM, filling it with high octane, and driving it hard doesnt get it moving its time for a trip to the dealer.

Here is a link to reset the PCM. Then drive normal , slow, fast and WOT for a few miles to relearn the curves. Do not unhook the battery for just a reset. I chirp hard at 70MPH on the GSC's going into third. Drives the girlfriend nuts. And makes me :D everytime. I still have less than 5k miles.

http://www.ls1.com/link_ecm.html

If that does not help then get it in for waranty check.

Later>>>>>>>>

Mine will not spin from a stop or a slow roll, but if I go WOT at 35mph or so all hell breaks loose, and the tires do too ;) :) From what I hear, the LS1 makes it's power a little higher in the RPM band.

With only a lid though, my car will chirp 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd but i have an A4 car.

Originally posted by MARSTAUT
You must have gotten a dud , my 99 A4 will chirp shiftin' to second.

my 2 penny's:

my tires will get loose in 1st at almost any rpm...
HOW EVER they DONT always "bark".
a lot of the times u CANT hear the tires breaking,
they just have that "stealth" type of "barking".


what do u have anyway M6 or A4?
and gears? 2.73's?

When I reset the PCM that won't effect the tripometer and make it reset to 0? I've got my radio code. I will give that a try later today when I get back from work. I'm not looking for traction problems but it sucks that I can't even get the tires to even feel like there gonna break loose at speed in 1st when the engine is whinned up to 4000+rpm's and the car should get tail happy going into second and lay down some serious rubber. When I've watched episodes of Car and Driver tv and they have tested stock LS1's there always sliding when they shift into second and laying down lots of rubber and there crappy drivers who shortshift there cars. Let you know later how it goes.

Did you post this on LS1.com also? If so, I replied with my user name "benjamin russick". If not, let me tell you that I had a worked 89 GT that was a solid 12 sec car on stickies and my bolt-on Z28 would eat it alive in any situation. You have either a serious defect, or are overlooking something obvious. Did you check the throttle stop? Plugs? Carpet under gas pedal? Seriously, my car will incinerate the 275s out back at WOT alll the way into 3rd. Good luck!

The only things I checked was the seal of my new airlid which I fine and I've only had that for less than a week and I once had the hood opened and I would give it gas and see if the throttle linkage was opening. Later today I will reset the pcm and remove the floormat and see how it goes. Last night it ran better f course with the slighty cooler air but still couldn't get a chrip shifting and I have 245's tires. Don't you think I should be able to light them up in the higher rpm range in at least 1st?

Thats strange. The other day ran me rpms up to about 6 grand then slammed it into 2nd and i could feel the rear break loose. Actualy swayed i little rather than just a chirp. How do you drive your car? Sometimes if you drive to conservatively all the time
the computer goes into a conservative mode (trys to get more gas mileage than hp). Personaly, i would try clearing your computer (unplug the battery for about 10 minutes) since your off the breakin period, let the car learn a different driving style. If no go on that, i would try driving another car, or hell get a lid and exhuast, it may wake it up.

thats also with the stock 3.42's. Haven't had a chance to get the 4.10's and girdle put on.

My '02 SS spins them hard from 5-10 MPH, and chirps 2nd and sometimes 3rd on a powershift. With the N20 and street tires it's all smoke:)

I cant buy traction in the TA...First, second, third, chrip fourth...Yes in 3rd the tires are spinning still, even if I let them catch up in 2nd... The Z will chirp first-second and its an auto

blacknight--

I know Irwindale is only 1/8th mi, and Carlsbad has tumble weeds blowing across the track, but there's another track you might want to try. Have you heard about the track at Fontana (California Speedway)? It's about half an hour from where you live (off of the I-10 at Cherry Ave). I go out there every weekend during the racing season and run my car(s). It's a 1/4 mi track and it's pretty decent (not as good as Pomona was though). I run about 13.60s bone stock out there. You might wanna give it a shot. Go to their site: www.californiaspeedway.com and see when they have the season starting back up again.

As for you not being able to chirp the tires with an M6....I dunno, buddy, that does seem very odd. Bring it to Fontana and run it against one of the other 50 LS1s out there (more go on Saturday than on Sunday). I'm sure there's nothing wrong with your car and you're right in with the rest of the mix.

Anyways, if you do decide to come out and race look for my group (a couple of black LS1 camaros and a red '97 SS).
Les

What's your tire pressue\re?

I agree that your car must have a problem. My '02 Z has similar miles (just over 2k now) and I have to be careful NOT to turn them over if I accelerate hard from any dead stop (and usually ASR is on). I remember the first time I chirped them on the 1-2 shift- it was an accident. I was getting frustrated following a slower vehicle, so I shifted and changed lanes- and that was when it happened- a nice little chirp. At the time, I thought it had more to do with the lateral movement of the car but, regardless, I thought it was pretty cool. I have reproduced the 1-2 chirp a number of times but have never attempted the 2-3 or 3-4. Based on my experience (and I'm no expert) I agree that you should get the car checked.

I have a related question. I don't have any problem mildly turning them over when ASR is on (I've never attempted a lengthy burn out, ASR or not). So can I assume that ASR will always eventually kick in?

I only remember a couple of occasions where ASR really kicked in during semi-normal driving (minimal squirreling) unless it has been very subtle.

I'm not sure if I should have posted my question to a new thread. I Just thought it might be related here.

I first drove all the time with ASR on the first couple months but since I hit 1000 miles I turn it off all the time. I have revved the sucker to 5500-6000 about 6 times in first and about that many times in second and only chirped going into second once. The throttle response most of the time is crap even near peak power. I'm gonna toss out the floormat and take my shoes off tonight so I can feel the gas pedal better. I was gonna reset the pcm but I don't want to have the tripometer go to 0 and have the oil change program timer reset to 0.

Ive got a stock 99 trans am and it will break traction crusing at 20mph. A4 with 3.23's. If I nail it from a dead stop I will leave a patch 25-30 feet long with the air pressure in my tires at 28. It will chirp the hell out 2nd which I think is pretty common.

Originally posted by blacknight
I was gonna reset the pcm but I don't want to have the tripometer go to 0 and have the oil change program timer reset to 0.

Oil change reminder is on a 5000 mile increments anyhow... you should be changing your oil more often than that no matter what type of oil you run

Just for you I decided to do a little test tonight...

rolling at 5 mph ... floor it -> smoke :)
rolling at 10 mph ... floor it -> controlled wheelspin :cool:

rolling at 65 with it wot -> tires dont want to hold on... lil squirrelly :bow:

also... if you reset the trip odometer. whats the big deal? Write down the current number and add it to new numbers.

rolling at 5 mph ... floor it -> smoke
rolling at 10 mph ... floor it -> controlled wheelspin

That's what my car should be doing. Thank's for doing that test. Now you'll need tires sooner. I can spin the tires from a stop but not one inch from a roll. Yesterday I was in a parking lot and 5 times I slowed down to 5 mph and floored it and nothing. Ok one time I went over a pothole so I got a little hop and lost some traction but barely. Back to resetting the pcm that won't effect the odometer at all? If not I will try that tomorrow. If that doesn't help then it's back to the dealership for the fourth time. Fallout removal, bad alarm shock sensor and 1000 mile oil change.

dont know about it affecting the trip odometer, but the cars overall odometer will remember no matter what you do with the battery.

You are quite welcome for the test. It was fun :cool: Not to worry, it wasn't on one of my good sets of tires. (Yes I have different sets for different "moods", Autocrossers tend to do that)

Also, if the dealer cant find something wrong, give your car some time. Mine really didnt start to wake up till about 10000 miles. Went to the track at 7000, ran a best of 13.7 @103 ; at 12000 miles ran a best of the times below. Note the much higher mph, in spite of virtually identical conditions.

it doesnt mess with the odomotor. I actualy did it on accident, had to use teminal posts for my side post battery to hook up my amps, left the + off too long and it cleared it, could tell b/c it had an extremely rough idle when i started it. Had to give it gas to keep it from dying, scared the crap out of me. Next start, vvvvvrrrooooommmm, gas mileage kinda sucked for a few weeks though. But know instead of a chirp into second with the asr off, it now rocks a little, kinda like its trying to get traction, then you feel it snap. still need to get it dynoed.

My LT1 A4 chirps 1-2 and 2-3 consistantly =] I just used GM CLeens (simiar to seafoam) two days ago and it chirped going 50mph when it downshifted... :D

1) My Stock LS1 Slaps around 5.0's daily.
2) Just yesterday, I had the tires squealing in second for a good two-three seconds with the shift from first to second, and that was good ol granny-shifting. Had I tried harder, that woulda been insane. And three people in the car might have helped that situation, maybe more traction?

These cars should do 13.5 at 106 RIGHT OFF THE DEALERS FLOOR! Faster with age. If NOT, something is WRONG...period

I have a 2000 TA and I also have a prob breaking the tires... my brother has a 94 camaro and he can smoke his with no problem. I head that the 98-2000 had a slow bottom end but a higher top end..... well they fixed that in 2001 i hear thay have a stronger bottom end.... however you cannot compar the LS1 to the 5.0 or the 4.6 mustangs have a prob sticking to the ground well if all you are doing is spining tires than you are not going anywhere camaros and Trans Am's Always have had better traction than mustangs. I had a 91 Mustang 5.0 and even with the mods I put on it My 2000 TA still feels stronger despit no tire spin from a stop.
I have 30,000 mi on mine

I am still thinking if I should reset the pcm tomorrow and then go drove the crap out of it. Maybe since I drove is so carefully the first 1000 miles, breakin period the computer is programmed into running slow. Any imput into that theory? Either way when I get to 3000 I will have it dynoed. Then if all is not good then it's off to the dealership, but if it's putting out the power it should then I will take it to a track. Our cars have much better suspensions then stangs, with the factory torque arm and panard bar. Though the factory ones both kind of suck and I will probable in the future replace the panard bar and lower control arms will aftermarket one's. In 2001 Gm put in the LS6 intake and the 6.0 liter cam from the silverado for more bottom grunt and removed the egr and some other things. They make around 300 pound feet of torque at just 2000rpm on up. Mine sure doesn't feel like it does and the airlid didn't improve the throtte response or nothing at this time.:(

I have a 99 TA with 33,000 miles on it and I have never had a problem chirping my tires going into second and I have a automatic yeah I know I made a mistake with that but the price was right. and when I have my TCS off and have the pedal mashed it goes sideways and sometimes almost out of control shifting to second. maybe check your injectors or intake something maybe blocking one of the two. My buddy bought a brand new 2002 TA and had this problem. It was his ignition and plugs the dealer couldn't explain why the computer wasn't makeing the check engine light go on but it was only fireing on six instead of eight so if you have performance problems through out your gears this maybe it.

You may want to see what Gears you have in the rear end you might have 2.73's I think mine does

You have to be kidding right? You are basing your cars performance on tires chirping and spinning?

There are way to many factors to even think about comparing 2 cars in different areas on how one spins one dosnt.

1. Road surface
2. type/condition of tires
3. weather condition/altitude

I can tell you some roads my car will spin the tires in first nailing it other roads it pretty much hooks.

Take the car to the track and see what it runs. Tire spining is not a measure of power. The MPH it runs at the track is.

yha mines good . just hade it out today made a left on to my street, and said what the hell . i was rolling at about 10 - 15 mph and nailed it. oboy did she go, 1st all the way past my house 2nd still spinng 3rd time to slow, the end of road comming fast. i came back home to find black stips all the way up the street. hehe heh thats cool !!!

Originally posted by Pewter99_Trans
Ive got a stock 99 trans am and it will break traction crusing at 20mph. A4 with 3.23's. If I nail it from a dead stop I will leave a patch 25-30 feet long with the air pressure in my tires at 28. It will chirp the hell out 2nd which I think is pretty common.

Same thing here...

Nate

You guys that are easily breaking traction from a roll is that just one's with automatics? I can see how going wot from a roll in a auto and having the trans downshift would shock the rear and break traction. I've tried going wot at any speed in 1st on all different surfaces and nothing. No spin into second. Also most of the guys that are breaking traction have 98-2000 models so they have lots of miles and are well broken in. I have now just under 1500 miles. I know that loosing traction isn't a way to measure power. Hell a 4cyl compact will chirp into second. However with all the power the LS1 makes and it supposed to have gobs of lowend torque and a great topend I should be able to easily smoke the tires shifting into second and from a roll at higher rpm's. I have some videos of test drives of LS1's smoking the tires all the way through 1st and from around a 30mph roll hitting the gas and getting a chirp out back. I still don't know if resetting the pcm would do anything. Since I drove the car easily like one should the first 1000 miles maybe the pcm needs to be reset and then go drive the car like I stole it which is what a couple people suggested. :confused:

I have an a4 w/ 2.73s and it's never spun the tires unless from a dead stop :(

LS1's are deceptive. Sometimes they don't feel like they have pull down low - I've taken 5.0 and LT1 guys for a drive and they tell me they think their car can take mine. I respond with "ok, let try it." Then I proceed to put 6-12 lengths on them in a 1/4 mile, and suddenly they say to me "man, is the feel of that engine deceptive...". And it is.

Roads vary everywhere. Tires, weather, driving habits, weight distribution of car (the 5L's are well known for a light back end), etc... all greatly influence tire smoking abilities. Never EVER trust your SOTP meter. It's way too inaccurate.

Don't wait for 3000 miles to dyno. Just go do it now.

As for the theory of driving it slow for the first 1000 miles causing a problem with the pcm, that's not the problem I'm sure. I drove like that with my car too, and now it runs like a raped ape... no problems at all.

My .02.

I have a 2002 M6. When I get it dynoed, what is the absolute minimum HP to expect before coming to the conclusion that something is wrong? The reason I ask is that it feels like it should be a lot faster.
Thanks

Not all dynos measure the same, so keep that in mind. Some will vary by as much as 10 rwhp. And Mustang Dynos measure a lot lower than Dynojets (so you need to know which type it is). So its hard to give a precise number, but for a 2002 6-spd, I say 300 rwhp is a minimum (I'd be very happy about 310, and ecstatic with anything higher, bone stock). Some are as high as 330 rwhp, some as low as 275 rwhp (for '98-9 A4s). That's the range.

With a few mods, on one dyno ('00 A4) I ran 322/333, yet on another a year later, I pulled only 312/315. Yet my car was just as fast. Some dynos are more liberal while others are more conservative.

Originally posted by TerrorDome
I have an a4 w/ 2.73s and it's never spun the tires unless from a dead stop :(

2.73 gears in an A4 are definitely more of a highway high speed (top end) gear. Smoking the tires with these is darn hard compared to the 3.23s.

Buy a convertor and that will change things... ;)

I'm gonna get it dynoed on a dynojet.

What tires do you have and what psi is in them? F1's?

How are you shifting into 2nd? What RPM are you shifting at? Are you using a quality gas of 91 OCT or better? Did you get a bad tank?

If you have F1's with 32-35psi and you are powershifting into 2nd 5800-6000RP and dumping the clutch you should bark!

Again, this is no real way to measure things. Also you don't have to wait till 3K to dyno. I waited until 500mi changed the oil with dino oil and at 1000mi strapped in on the dyno. It's the first 500mi that break in the rings and seat the valves on these new high tech roller cam LS1's.

Then at 3K miles I changed to Mobil 1 syn. and let the mods begin!

Originally posted by blacknight
I'm gonna get it dynoed on a dynojet.

Great. When are you doing it? Let us now how it goes.

i just threw up the idea on the pcm flash. Thought about it b/c mine felt stronger when i did. Although mine does break the tires when shifting at about 6000 grand to 2nd, i can't exaclty break them loose from a stop unless i dump it a little.

Redz 02 I see in your sig that you have 4.10 gears so of course your gonna break the tires loose from 1st to second. I still might reset the pcm for the hell of it. I got my radio code on hand and I need to reset the clock back anyways. Also when I fillup the gas tank I will only go to Chevron. It sucks living in california will only 91 octane gas available. I once put in 100 race gas from my local 76 station in my stang and leaving the station I spun the tires at a 30mph roll in second, never did that with 91. Do any of the octane boosters work or are they all crap?

I've owned 6, 5 litre mustangs over the years (still own 3, one which runs 9's) but on Monday I bought a '00 T/A( traded my '97 T/A). I really have'nt tried to roast the tires off yet but i can tell you it has a completetly different feel. Its so quiet and smooth that it seems like your going slow until you watch the speedometer accelerating at an incredible rate.
This might seem like a stupid question but do you have the traction control on?


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'88 Saleen- 9.3@145:bow:
'89 Steeda-12.5@113 N/A
'95 Saleen S351- stock
'00 T/A-M6,red/black leather,stock except for 17" Torque Thrust II's:metal:

I have the traction control, ASR off whenver I decide to drive hard. I do realize that the LS1 is a pretty smooth motor compared to the 5.0. Today I drove both cars and the stang just seems to accererate with much less effort. I am convinced that it just needs more miles. I have read many posts about how the LS1 was a dog until they got around 3000-6000 miles on it and now they smoke the tires really good going into second. I like both cars in different ways. I need to take a long trip in the camaro. I just don't drive it enough.

I still think something is wrong with your car. My Z28 smoked the tires 1-2 right out of the dealer lot with under 6 miles on the clock. Once again, I owned a 1989 5.0 GT that went 12.9 (on stickies) and there is no comparison between the two. The Z28 would especially kill it from a roll. I wish you luck with the car, hopefully it is something minor.

This weekend I'll reset the pcm since it's worth a shot. Then I will just drive it more and get them miles racked up. Some guys say they can smoke the tires easily and other day they can't so I don't know who to believe. At least with the camaro I got a warranty unlike the stang.:confused: :mad:

I had been feeling the same way until I had a friend drive my car and crapped in the passenger's seat as he punched it and downshifted @ 60mph. BTW, my friend drives a 2000 GT and just said WHOAAAAAA ****TTT! as the engine kept producing gobs of power well after his Stang would have pooped out.

I don't think my time is representative of what my car can do when I learn how to launch it, but I am doing 13.7's @ Carlsbad (notoriously ****ty track) and I dyno'd @ 295 rwhp and 321 torque.

If you want to race around and see if yours is comparable, I would be glad to. I am in Rancho Santa Margarita. Drop me a line : clever1@cox.net

P.S. For a good dyno-jet/performance shop, Goto GRC Performance in Aliso Viejo. Ask for Paul and tell him Daryl sent ya!

10-20mph yea if I floor it I will just spin and keep spin and when I shift to second same thing will happen just keep spinin...Fun stuff. The two cars you are comparing are apples and oranges the ls1 has a different power band so It may not fell has fast but it probably is. Also you could be used to it already. I don't think my car is fast but everyone that drives it or rides in it thinks so...Go have someone ride with you and let them tell you also the dyno thing is a good idea

Seth

P.S. Black....If you want 100 octane fuel and don't mind paying $4.50 a gallon (WOW), just head up the 5 a few exits and stop @
25172 Cabot Rd, Laguna Hills, CA 92653

I-5 N toward LOS ANGELES. 2.75 miles

Take the LA PAZ RD exit. 0.32 miles

Turn LEFT onto LA PAZ RD. 0.19 miles

Turn LEFT onto CABOT RD. 0.09 miles

http://www.osbornauto.com/racing/100locations.htm

D

I wish my car was fast..its a slow POS....:mad: :(

Originally posted by Camaro ChriSS
2.73 gears in an A4 are definitely more of a highway high speed (top end) gear. Smoking the tires with these is darn hard compared to the 3.23s.

Buy a convertor and that will change things... ;)

thanks for the advice...yeah i wish mine was an m6.
as for a converter, i willl save my money for that day :)

Hey man, I have a couple questions for you and some good news. Let me start off with the good news. When I first purchased my 02 TA I was very dissapointed with the way it felt. Seemed to be lacking tq and overall just did not impress me that much. As the mile came on so did the power. I cannot even start to explain how different the car feels. It literally gets stronger by the day. When I first got her, she wouldn't lite the tires up or even chirp them unless i punched it at around 5k, then she would chirp. I never had a problem chirping on a 1-2 shift, but we'll get into that later. ANyway, I was concerned about the performance, I asked myself if i got a dud. Well, she laid down a corrected 312hp and 338tq to the wheels. Then I took her to the track and ran a 13.7 at 104 in 90 degree heat and no traction.

As the miles kept coming the car has noticably gotten stronger. Now, at 350orpm is 1st, she will bark the tires and take off like a rocket. Also, I have now run a best of 13.606 and hit a high of 105.9mph in the quater. This is with a bad friggan synchro that locks me out of third if i shift quickly at anything over 5500rpm going into third.

Just wait to get some miles on her and I guarantee you she will feel better.


Now for the questions and some things to try. When you are going for a WOT romp what exactly are you doing? Try this. In first, bring her to about 35-40mph, keep her there for a second, then quickly remove your foot from the pedal, then mash it back down. If this does not work, do it from 5 grand and you should definately bark them.

My other question is how do you shift? These cars will rev to 6200 though I will warn you the factory tach is slow, so you can bang the limiter if you go by the tach. The faster you shift and the higher the rpm you shift at will effect this greatly.

I have never had any issue barking second, occasionally will get third, but my synchro problem ruins that most of the time.

Do you speed shift? I have speed shifted from 1st to 2nd a few times and lost time at the track because it will kick the ass end out a couple feet and lose way to much traction.

Anyway, I would not be that concerned with not burning out in an M6 at that slow of a speed and in time they will bark from about 3500rpm up on a nice throttle mash.

Try some different shifting techniques. Quicken your shift and rev her more and if that don't work, speed shift the bastard and put a smile on your face.

Hope this helps you out.

I have an 02 M6 Firehawk. At first the car was definetly not as fast as I thought it should be. I have a certain stretch of back road where I can get a good WOT run in. I take this road every so often when my foot starts to feel real heavy.;) Well at about 900 miles it was awful. I was really disappointed that I couldn't even chirp from 1st to 2nd. Partly from me being unfamiliar with the car too. But now, in fact just the other day, I spun like crazy from 1st gear 10-15mph roll, had to let off a little to starighten it out, slammed it into second and spun like crazy, had to let off a bit and go to 3rd where I met traction and the car just took off even faster. I now have only 4000 miles on the car. I can't wait until 10,000!!:bow: I dynoed at 2500 miles with 312/326 on a dynojet.

Well I figure this post has enough replys one more shouldn't hurt. I bought my Z used with 58,000 miles and let me tell you even with a A4 and a 3.23 gear from a stand still no break torque I could light the tires all the way through first gear and half way through second and that was when the car was stock.

I went a tried this last night to see. With the clutch out and just coasting along at 5 MPH I got on it to WOT and just took off until got to about 3500 RPM's then lots of wheel spin and smoke. Grabbed second and kept on going. One hell of a good time. Now I need to go find that ad for take off wheels are tires from SLP.

Last week I got a Tazzo vpc and tested it out yesterday in the back business streets in Irvine which are flat roads. It's hard to find a long flat road of any kind in south orange county. My average 60ft times were 2.2 with one 2.1 which I was taking off from a idle and slipping the clutch for a second to get weight transfer and then going wot. My 0-60 times were 5.02. I wasn't being aggressive at all in my launching. I know with a much more aggressive launch I could get my 60ft's around 2.1-2.0 and my 0-60 under 5 seconds. I should get my ass to a track but I don't feel like driving a long distance. Carlsbad is the closest track around and I've been there once before in my stang and that track has no traction at all and I don't wanna drive my car on that dirt road. All other track are at least a hour+ away. At least with my Tazzo I now realize that my car ain't slow by any means. I did chirp third a couple weeks ago. I now have almost 2000 miles on her. Someone last week posted about how it hard to feel the torque of the LS1 and that's very true. :cool:

Hey Black...Try Portola Road on the Rancho/Irvine border (right by the 241)...Tell me when, and I will be there to clear a path for ya ;)

I don't have the 4.10's in yet, I hadn't fixed my sig, waiting to get my rims and tires before i put the gears in, now they are just sitting there with me druling at them. Comparing an LS1 to a 5.0 is not the way to go. those cars are nutorious for low end torque. Plus they are alot lighter than our cars.

Originally posted by Black@sNight
Hey Black...Try Portola Road on the Rancho/Irvine border (right by the 241)...Tell me when, and I will be there to clear a path for ya ;) I got my map out and can see that I can get to Portola from exiting Sand Canyon and going towards the mountains. Yesterday I was doing short runs on Alton. I live over near the Mission Viejo swimming pool. Between Trabuco and Alicia. Have to watch my speed around Alicia, Marguerite and Los Alisos. There's motorcycle cops everywhere. Sunday was the perfect day to do some short tests since the businesses are closed and there is almost no traffic. I will try Portola on this coming Sunday. I'm just looking to improve my 60ft's and 0-60 times. No 1/8 or 1/4 runs on public streets for me.
redz_02 I know there is no comparison between a LS1 and a 5.0 stang. I think my camaro is a dream to drive compared to the stang but it's also harder to drive. I still am not used to the hydraulic clutch and the high 1st gear. When I buy my car out the first thing I will do is get a 12 bolt with some 4.10 gears and Nitto drags.

guess your right, the clutch difference between an 89 lx and a t56 is like night and day. When i drive my friends 92 i get a freakin leg work out. Hell i had trouble getting used to it from my 99 GT. I began with my gtech running 14.1's but lately i have goten better, got some 13.4's @113, have trouble getting traction from 1st to 2nd shifts, if i hit it to hard. Figure once i get my firehawk 285's i will gain maybe 2 tenths, I can feel them break loose for a good second. Give the car at least 6,000 miles, then it will be broken in well. Just as a reference had a buddy with a ws6 run 11.8's with 4.10's, lid, and et streets, luanching off the rev limiter. You might get a catback and a lid, i gained about 20 rwhp fromt that.

I got a lid a month ago and planned on getting a catback but I'm gonna hold off on that for a while, $$ reasons. I think I will end up getting a Magnaflow. I wanted a Corsa but with all the rattling problems most owners have and the $300 more dollars I changed my mind. The mechanical clutch in stangs is very stiff but in return it has great feel. I know exactly where it engages everytime and the pedal travel is much less.

>I wanted a Corsa but with all the rattling problems most owners have and the $300 more dollars I changed my mind.<

Dang! I just put my Corsa exhaust on a month ago. It sounds bad ass @ WOT, and is quiet inside as advertised. But, it DOES rattle...Mostly when I put it in reverse. Anyone think this could be remedied by having it welded?:confused: