Or driveshaft splines. When I first go my 98Z A4, I got some clunking from shifting and took it to the dealer for warranty work. They said they repacked the driveshaft splines or something to that effect. Can I do this myself or is it worth letting a mechanic do this. Keep in mind I do not trust mechanics and would like to do it myself if practical.
I've replace the tranny mount, swaybar bushings, and so on trying to get rid of this clunk/pop sound coming from tranny shifts after I tap the brakes or accelerate after a downshift.
rskrause
08-22-2005, 11:26 PM
http://www.misterfixit.com/clunk.htm
http://jass.org/splines/052.jpg
Rich
So I have to remove the axel? I tried looking at install university and didn't find anything. I'm hoping I just need to add some lube.
Z28barnett
08-22-2005, 11:41 PM
female spline become sharp and bite into the male splined output shaft.
Ouch, that sounds painful. :D :D :D
goosechevy21
08-22-2005, 11:45 PM
What I got from the link was: after you take off the driveshaft, you can either file off the rough spots or just pour some ATF in there and see if it helps.
Also, if this method does not solve the clunk you're hearing, you might try installing some new u-joints.
What I got from the link was: after you take off the driveshaft, you can either file off the rough spots or just pour some ATF in there and see if it helps.
Also, if this method does not solve the clunk you're hearing, you might try installing some new u-joints.
I just went outside and held down the brake when shifting from reverse to drive and got the clunk. The splines don't come into play in this scenario do they? I'm becoming suspect of the u-joint. How do I determine if the u-joint has play or is bad?
goosechevy21
08-22-2005, 11:57 PM
In my opinion, what you just described is the symptom of a bad set of u-joints. That is, the clunk when shifting from park to drive or reverse.
rskrause
08-23-2005, 08:18 AM
In my opinion, what you just described is the symptom of a bad set of u-joints. That is, the clunk when shifting from park to drive or reverse.
Sounds like that to me also.
Rich
Thanks, I guess I'll get under there and take a look, hopefully the u-joint isn't too hard to replace...
94Camaro_Z_28
08-23-2005, 11:31 AM
Very Easy to replace....assuming they haven't been in there for 11 years like mine were...
One last question, where's a good place to get u-joint for a 98Z A4 (does it matter)? Is there any other part that I should get to compliment it?
BTW, I really appreciate your guys' help here, I just started working on my car recently since it's gettin' old.
goosechevy21
08-23-2005, 09:07 PM
You can buy a new set of U-joints from any auto parts store, they're all about the same. Some are heavy duty and claim to be much stronger than stock, it's up to you what to buy.
As far as other parts needed to change u-joints, you'll need an extra bad ass C-clamp or a bench mounted shop vice and an array of different size sockets to push out the old U-joint. A big hammer helps, too. I've done two sets of u-joints personally and it can be a major PITA if they're slightly rusted in place as they usually are. I've heard that most shops will swap in new u-joints for a small fee of around $30 labor. If you want to do this job yourself, go for it, but I've found that it's more hassle than it's worth without the proper tools. If I have to do u-joints again, I'll either find an arbor press to aid installation and removal or just take the driveshaft to the local Napa or some other qualified automotive facility. The parts are cheap, but if you chose to do it yourself, the labor can be more than you bargained for.
-Just my two cents.