1994 firebird vats problem

I'm a newbie to the fourth gen cars so bear with me. I picked up a project car that was sitting for about a year.I got it cheap so no worries. When i try to start the car I get nothing. The security light stays on. I tested the key with a multimeter and found the pellet value to be 681 (#3). Then I unhooked the purple wire connector under the dash and checked that also 681. Iwent to radio shack and purchased resistors 680 ohm , 1/2 watt 5% tollerence. Installed it taped it up and still nothing.I have done all the searches on this and other sights and I still don't understand what my next step should be. I think all fuses are good but I dont know if there are some relays that could be at fault.Am I missing something. I only have one car key and have no problem having a new one cut . Any and all help appreciated. Thanks-John

If you also got the same ohm reading at the harness connector under the dash, that would mean the circuit from there to the key cylinder is ok. You may have trouble with the VATS module, itself or the connection right there at it.

I was hopeing you would reply because it was your site I got the information from. Any way to test the vats module or do you know if these are expensive? Thanks-John

I was hopeing you would reply because it was your site I got the information from. Any way to test the vats module or do you know if these are expensive? Thanks-John

No real testing info for the module, itself. They are $100+ .

What does it look like? How hard is it to get to and where under there is it?Thanks-John

What does it look like? How hard is it to get to and where under there is it?Thanks-John
It's a box to the right of the radio, attached to the air bag bracket.
Wires going into it should be:
Orange
Pink
Dark Blue
Yellow/Black
Grey
Black/White
and the two wires from the key cylinder below:
Purple/White
White/Black

I won't have time to work on it this weekend but I'll keep posted how its coming. I think somewhere down the road this car had a alarm system wired in there and I belive this will complicate things because it may have been removed. I wish I could just bypass/disable the whole vats system so I can see what I am in for with this car and its motor issues. Is the resistor the only way to bypass it? Thanks again for the help shoebox and you have a awsome internet site with tons of great information-John

Ok, well I bypassed the vats relay I think,fat yellow and fat purple wires still no crank, security light on. I also do not see the vats module there. Is it supposed to be near the relay?Another thing I just remembered is when I first picked the car up I noticed there was no fuse in the crank(3 amp) spot.When I attempt to start the car the only thing I hear is the fuel pump coming on and a relay clicking in the engine compartment.Any suggestions. Thanks-John

Bypassing the relay may let you crank it, but still won't let the engine run because the VATS module will not be providing the fuel enable signal to the PCM.
The module is on the opposite side of the glovebox from the relay.

Having it programmed out of the PCM is another solution.

Ok, I found the vats module. Does the dash have to be removed to remove this? How would I go about getting this programed out of the computer, who does this type of programing and what are the ballpark costs? Thanks-John

Ok, I found the vats module. Does the dash have to be removed to remove this? How would I go about getting this programed out of the computer, who does this type of programing and what are the ballpark costs? Thanks-John

You would have to ask someone like http://madz28.com/ or pcmforless.com.

Does the dash have to be removed to take out this module? If I have to take out the dash anything special about the passenger side airbag. Thanks again-John

Does the dash have to be removed to take out this module? If I have to take out the dash anything special about the passenger side airbag. Thanks again-John

Just the right lower panel and maybe glove box. No messing with the air bag.

Man this sucks.I don't know if ours are mounted in different areas but mine is not accessed thru the glovebox. I can only gain access to one screw thru the radio spot(has already been removed). It is mounted to a metal frame type bracket. I have owned at least 15 second and third gen camaros and firebirds and this is my second 1994 formula but these cars are such a pain to work on.I am not a newbie to cars in general but it seems my chiltons is no help here. Thanks for all the help. I'm becoming a pest with this stupid problem.

Shoebox on the resistor for the vats disable the ones at radio shack are 1/2 watt is that the right ones. My key measured 9.5k ohms so with the 5% tolerance i'm thinking that the 10 ohm should check out close. Thanks Frank95z

Shoebox on the resistor for the vats disable the ones at radio shack are 1/2 watt is that the right ones. My key measured 9.5k ohms so with the 5% tolerance i'm thinking that the 10 ohm should check out close. Thanks Frank95z

Which resistor are you talking about Frank? The one on the key?

According to the passkey chart http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#pass_key no resistors were any where near only 10ohms

Also, Shoebox:

If you were to wire in the resistor and have the vats fuel shutoff tuned out, would this effectively stop VATS from being able to not allow you to start the car? Or what else would you need to do?

Just found this on ebay, do they really work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33720QQitemZ7992124 862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Well, I got the car started tonight.I used jumper clips on the resister to make a better connection on the bypass and I also bypassed the vats relay(purple and yellow wires). It started right up but only runs for a few seconds then stalls.The security light is still on. Does this sound like the vats module is bad or could it still be something else.Some progress is better then none at all.

My next question is if I do replace the vats module , this will mate to the key and the ignition cylinder, correct.Also as stated in one of the other posts above, do you think the bypass module on ebay will help me resolve my problems without all these other bypasses.Thanks for all the help-John

Just found this on ebay, do they really work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-VATS-or-PASSkey-II-Bypass-Module-For-LS1-and-LT1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33720QQitemZ7992124 862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Yes, they work. It is for bypassing the signal the VATS module or BCM supplies to the PCM to allow fuel delivery. It is not the same bypass as the resistor used for the key pellet.

My next question is if I do replace the vats module , this will mate to the key and the ignition cylinder, correct.Also as stated in one of the other posts above, do you think the bypass module on ebay will help me resolve my problems without all these other bypasses.Thanks for all the help-John

Either the VATS module is not seeing your resistor (resistor, wiring...) or your VATS module might be bad. Since you have bypassed the theft deterrent relay and are able to crank the car, adding the Ebay module will allow the car to run.

If you install a new VATS module, it will program itself to the key that you have (assuming the circuitry is complete and it can actually read it). This automatic programming only works one time.

Thanks again. I will get one of the module bypasses and will post the results.

So if i were to install the resistor to bypass the key pallet, and have the fuel cutoff tuned out, the vats would be totally bypassed?

So if i were to install the resistor to bypass the key pallet, and have the fuel cutoff tuned out, the vats would be totally bypassed?

Not totally. If you use the resistor, then you still are relying on the VATS to enable the theft deterrent relay. If you bypass the relay (in addition to your programming), you won't need the resistor for the key and the VATS module would not even have to be present.

What does bypassing the relay entail?

What does bypassing the relay entail?
Just like rottonj said, jumper (connect) the purple and yellow wires. Have you looked at the VATS schematic (http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg) on my site?

Hadnt seen that schematic on your site before for whatever reason.

Ill definetly try this, alot easier than messing with a resistor, plus i can have the fuel cutoff tuned out for free.

Yet again, thanks shoebox :bow: :)

edit: Will jumping the yellow and purple wires together make it so the car will start without the clutch pushed in? Or is that function of the theft deterrent relay retained?

Hadnt seen that schematic on your site before for whatever reason.

Ill definetly try this, alot easier than messing with a resistor, plus i can have the fuel cutoff tuned out for free.

Yet again, thanks shoebox :bow: :)

edit: Will jumping the yellow and purple wires together make it so the car will start without the clutch pushed in? Or is that function of the theft deterrent relay retained?
Jumpering the yellow (C1) and purple (A2) completely bypasses the relay and the clutch switch/transmission range switch. So, the starter will now engage when in gear.
If you want to retain the relay and the clutch/transmission lockout ability, do nothing but permanently ground the yellow/black (A1) lead to the relay (don't disconnect or jumper the yellow and purple). That will allow the relay to operate when the key is in the START position, regardless of what the VATS is doing.

I got the Vats bypass module from Ebay, it was like 28 bucks shipped. Three wires simple hookup. The car started right up and stayed running. Thanks again for all the help shoebox.

I got the Vats bypass module from Ebay, it was like 28 bucks shipped. Three wires simple hookup. The car started right up and stayed running. Thanks again for all the help shoebox.
I guess that answers the question "do they really work?". :)

Now, you are an expert. :D