Can someone please look at a datamaster file, PLEASE.

I have a log of a datamaster file and I need to figure out what my running rich problem is being caused by. I just stuck in new delco 02 sensors last night. The 02 sensors fixed the weird cam surge and bogging issue, however now my car is just running insanely rich.

Thank you.

I don't have a way to read a datamaster file.

Is it reading rich, or is it reading lean?

If it's reading lean, and adding fuel, when you think it shouldn't be, check for vacuum leaks or air leaks after the MAF sensor, and check for exhaust leaks before or close to the o2 sensors.

If it's readin rich, and pulling fuel out, I'm not sure what to say.

Some cars need the MAF table adjusted to match the actual performance of the car.

It's also possible you have a bad MAF, see if you can swap with a friend or something to see if that makes a difference.

My car was reading really lean and adding lots of fuel, replacing the MAF fixed that for me.

You might even try just cleaning the MAF with electrical contact cleaner.

If he posts them in ".csv" format (export as .csv) you can open them with Excel.

I've just got so many to look at now, that it might take me a week or so to get to any new ones.

Maybe once your provide a link to the log people might help.. :rolleyes:

here is a link to the .csv file.

http://www.akgaming.com/~kendall/files/silvershark.csv

Thanks!

Can't connect.

It would appear that you have a large exhaust leak on the driver's side. At least in my inexperienced opinion.

Hmm, I will double check, however all exhaust parts are new.

I agree with the one above, the readings on the left side O2's are very low,

I see where it goes up but then back down. So it does work every once and awhile. which would rule out plugs or wires. opti would show on both sides,
so it looks like it is getting a lot of air inside the before the O2 on the drivers side.

check the wires also as you could have some that are arching most of the time. but I doubt it.

I had the same kind of issue, but mine was right side and low all the time.
found 3 cut plug wires.

Finally got it open.

You're not recording anywhere near the amount of data you need to do a decent analysis. I don't see:

RPM
MAF
system voltage
coolant temp
inlet air temp
cell #
pulse widths

Without the rpm and cell #, its almost impossible to see anything meaningful. Why aren't you recording those?

TPS voltage is definitely on the high side at 0.92V closed throttle.

Both O2's should read approx 450mV when you turn the key on. Your left sensor is screwed up. It shows up as screwing up the long term corrections, with values as high as 160. Although if I had to guess, that will be Cell 17, because its always closed throttle coasting when the really high values show up. See why its impossible to do anything meaningful without the Cell #?

Right O2 stays stationary for 90 seconds after startup.... like the heater isn't working.

Aroung line 990 you close the throttle and the left O2 drops like a rock to the 80mV range.

Did you reset the PCM before the log? LT's start at 128 in open loop. When it finally goes into closed loop after about 200 seconds, the long terms start "learn". You shouldn't reset the PCM before a data log, if that's what you did. We need to see the fully developed lont terms, resulting from a long period of driving.

Also something screwy with MAP and TPS. Around line 245 you're seeing a MAP of 92.6kPa which would indicate the throttle is almost wide open, but your TPS voltage is only 1.08V indicating the throttle is barely cracked open. It happens later on in line 818 for example when yousee 97.4kPa, but TPS is only 1.53V.

Have you checked the TPS sensor with a volt meter? You would want to see 0.50-0.70V at closed throttle, and about 4.5V at WOT, with a smooth transition over the full range from closed to WOT.

There's one point (line 941) where you are showing 60deg of spark advance.... must be a glitsch in the data.

You've got to set the scanner up so it records the required data.

I have a rip about the size of a dime in my throttle body elbow, perhaps that is why it is showing the TPS voltage very low but in fact a lot of air is passing? I will try and duct tape the air hole to see if it makes a difference. I have a new elbow on order, but it is taking time and money to get the car where it needs to be.

I am also going to try and put the car in open loop mode only and see how it runs.

Your car would be running lean then because you have unmeasured air entering the engine. That could cause accelleration hiccups. Do exactly as Injuneer says and check your tps signal with an analog (needle) voltmeter so you can see if there are any signal dropouts. I assumed as there were no longterm counts that the problem just happened which reinforced my exhaust leak theory.

A leak in the intake elbow will drive the long term corrections up, but its not going to affect the TPS voltage readings or the MAP readings. Those two are not consistant.... It isn't likely you would see close to barometric pressure in the intake manifold, when the throttle is barely open. Either the MAP sensor or the TPS sensor is providing bad data.

Ok, I went ahead and put the car in open loop mode only today, and man it runs 90% better. It is like a new car! The gas milage is also incredibly better compared to before. I imagine I was getting 3mpg before.

Here is a log file of my car running open loop mode. I also patched up the intake leak.

www.akgaming.com/~kendall/files/lt1.csv

Thanks again guys for all the help.

I emailed Ion today and hopefully he can do an openloop tune of some sort for me.

Ok, I am also curious. I have few different members from this board's tunes that they use on their cars... These are well versed people from what I can tell via the board and their VE tables are adjusted. Mine are not adjusted at all from the Stock VE Tables.

For example, Atljar's. I was just curious why this is. I also have a pcmforless tune that I was comparing too and he adjusts the VE tables as well.... Could perhaps not adjusting the VE tables from the stock values cause my weird problems in closed loop operation?

I have all new parts in the car, if you dont believe me please view my website and you can see all what has been done to this motor, it was not half assed and I dont want to blow 8k down the drain.

Thanks for the input.

Volumetric Efficiency tables do not affect closed loop operation. The tear in the elbow will affect the way your car runs due to unmetered air going in. You did not mention this in any of your emails either.

You can use Vemaster to adjust your VE tables in open loop. That will help with your BLMs and gas mileage.

Just curious.... my look at the first file showed you had possible problems with one O2 sensor, the MAP sensor and/or the TPS sensor. Did you check any of those items?

Seems like deciding to go "open loop" to solve the problems is just one way of covering them up, and hoping they go away. The O2 sensor obviously won't hurt you in open loop, but the others may, if they are really problems.

The 02 sensors are both brand new, maybe 3 days on them. I fixed the tear in the elbow, so that is no longer an issue. I am not trying to downplay Ion's work. He has been great from the start, however I am trying to get a feel of what may be wrong with the car. Everything is new, besides sensors and wiring harness stuff. I am going to take off my elbow tonight and check the MAF and see if it may have been gutted before I purchased the car. I can replace the TPS sensor and the MAP sensor if you beleive those are bad. However, I am pretty sure the sensor's are working due to the fact that before the rebuild I didnt have any problems.

Though with a year of sitting, I guess they could have just gone bad?

I also noticed the weird problem with the 02 sensor on the left side as far as the values go... It looks really off compared to my right 02 sensor. Could some where down the line the 02 sensor wire gotten cut or something and is causing it to read funny? Or is it more than likely an injector or multiple on the left side are not firing? Any info on how to check and see if the injectors on the left side are firing would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the help. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Ok, pulled the MAF, its not descreened, and all the resistor looking things are in place and connected.

Since you have a scanner you can look at the TPS all through its range and determine if it is good or not. Just turn the key on have the scanner hooker up where you can look at it and turn the throttle open , it should read about .45 to 5 vdc closed and move linear as you open it up to around 5 vdc @ WOT. About a half a volt either way at the top or bottom is acceptable.

looking at the scan file that I took in open loop mode I the voltages look like they are not around the .45 to 5vdc as I open the car up like you are saying.

However the TPS voltage looks like it goes from .09 to 2.9vdc.

I just went ahead and purchased a new 1LE elbow and a new TPS sensor from Jason Cromer. Should be here monday.