1.9 60 ft. on a head camd car !! help!

went to the track last night..
it was VERY hot and humid. but still..
rear end in completely stock, only suspension mods = eibach pro kit springs.

le1 heads, custom grind cam (larger than the 847), longtubes
full bolt on car. alson only a mail order tune...dyno tune is on the way

went 12.74@110 1.98 60 ft.

I NEED TO CUT 1.6 60 FTS. PLEASE HELP !!

launched at 4500 rpms and it hooked, but only a 1.9
6 speed, et streets, spec stage 3 clutch

do i need gears? sub frames? control arms ? don't know about any suspension at all.

are u 100 pecent sure u are hooking? any wheel hop? if ur hooking are u bogging?

rear lower control arms and relocation brackets and and an a torque arm would really help u out alot if ur not getting traction, subframes ull prolly want so ur body wont twist

are u running 3.42s if so 4.11s would be great for u but may make traction a little harder to get

im not the greatest person at explaining things but i hope this helps

i hear those spring arent teh greatest for drag racing application

ughhhh 1.6 on stock rear end... i snapped my axle when i was consistent pulling 2.1s it may live a few 1.6s but i wouldnt count on it

If the car is bogging out of the whole, Id get a set of 4:10's in it..If the car is hoppin' for traction, then a set of LCA's,subframes, and a TQ arm would fit nicely.

no its not hopping...not really bogging i don't think..just seems like it will hook, then kinda maintain for a few feet then start to pick up.. :confused:

If you are not having a problem with traction, leave the suspension alone. In other words... if you are hooking up the problem is elsewhere.

If I had to venture a real wild guess, I would have you look at the plugs to see if they are rich. I'm guessing (I'm not overly technical), that perhaps your heads are large and exhaust large, but you don't have the velocity to make as much power as you should. At 110 with a properly geared and set up car you could be in the 11's. I got there at 109.... Also, as much as I hate to say it MPH is about power and ET is about efficiency. With a manual car your shifting style can have a whole lot to do with not only the sixty foot but the total ET package.

- You could be spinning. My last time out when I pulled a 1.61 60' I was spinning, but it wasn't bad enough to keep me from pulling forward (poor track prep...if you could call it prep at all).

- Lowering springs aren't helping your cause. Lack of relocation brackets make a poor situation worse

- 1.6 60' w/ a stock rear and a stick car isn't really reasonable. The rear just isn't designed to take that kind of abuse. Get a 9", modified 8.8", or 12-bolt.

- You could be bogging out of the hole. My car w/ 26" tires aired down and 3.73's bogs out of the hole off the spray (hence why there are 4.11's sitting in my garage, should help on the spray too). The whole car is setup around the spray, and it's no fun N/A at the track because of this. 6000+ RPM clutch dumps will just bog. The extra couple hundred lb/ft of torque on the spray makes sure bogging NEVER happens. My motor N/A is pretty peaky; power feels near stock until after 3-4k RPM, then it's a whole other ballgame.

Suspension mods to help the cause:
- I noticed a difference when I went w/ aftermarket LCA's. I could feel it hook better, especially on the street

- Adjustable torque arm. Not overly noticable on the street, but cranking my pinion angle down to -2 degrees made about a .1 difference in my 60'. I just cranked it down to -4 tonight (heavy duty Spohn DS w/ 1350 joints....probably wouldn't trust that much w/ a stocker setup), and I'll see how it does tomorrow.

- Launch technique. I pretty much do near clutch dumps simply because I don't trust my SPEC Stage III Carbon clutch, and refuse to ride it out at all (not a SPEC fan, and wish I would have been smart and just went w/ a Street Twin from day 1; I'd have less invested overall). Riding the clutch out slightly would probably help some, and be easier on your drivetrain.