Compatibility issues with AFR Rev kit and Comp R lifters?

I'm running an AFR Rev kit with an LE2 heads and cam package and Comp R lifters.

I have a rattle coming out of the intake. I changed all the lifters and I'm starting to think that the AFR kit is interfering with the lifter's ability to oil properly. I popped in brand new Comp R lifters and the rattle remains.

The rattle comes from all over the intake whenever I turn off the car and it also pulls the idle down to 750rpm while in gear causing surging (regardless of oil temp hot or cold). Its an automatic.

A local mechanic seems to think that the AFR Hydra-Rev kit that is not compatible with my Comp R lifters and LE2 cam because I run a regular oil pump with a canton pan and the lobes are very aggressive on the cam and aren't letting the lifters oil properly.

I'm running an AFR Rev kit with an LE2 heads and cam package and Comp R lifters.

I have a rattle coming out of the intake. I changed all the lifters and I'm starting to think that the AFR kit is interfering with the lifter's ability to oil properly. I popped in brand new Comp R lifters and the rattle remains.

The rattle comes from all over the intake whenever I turn off the car and it also pulls the idle down to 750rpm while in gear causing surging (regardless of oil temp hot or cold). Its an automatic.

A local mechanic seems to think that the AFR Hydra-Rev kit that is not compatible with my Comp R lifters and LE2 cam because I run a regular oil pump with a canton pan and the lobes are very aggressive on the cam and aren't letting the lifters oil properly.


Have you tried yanking the Rev Kit to see what that does?

What valvespring setup are you using and is the LE2 cam a Comp Cam? I personally don't recomend the AFR Rev kit because you can control the valve/lifter without it.

Bret

I haven't tried removing the Rev kit yet. I'm dreading it because I've yanked the intake 3 times this summer for various other problems and attempts to fix this rattle.

I just wanted to see what other people recommended.

The LE2 cam is a Lloyd Elliott camshaft. Its similar to the GM847 (234/242 .565 .565 112) But the LE2 has more lift and less LSA.

I personally don't recomend the AFR Rev kit because you can control the valve/lifter without it.

Absolutely true.

I just spoke with Joe Overton and he recommended the same thing that I remove the AFR kit.

I'll try it and let you guys know. :)

You might wanna remove the comp Rs while your at it too. Pieces of crap.

You might wanna remove the comp Rs while your at it too. Pieces of crap.

What would you recommend I use instead?

I run the AFR rev kit with the Comp R lifters and a much more aggresive cam and never had a problem.

I am going to use a AFR rev kit and it has nothing to do with Valve float ;)

Years ago I exploded a rocker and the damage that followed was not good. For me it is more about safety and nothing more ;) I have talked to three or four guys who had the "Spider" lift and let the lifters turn and wipe stuff out :D

AFR rev kit for Comp-R lifters has a different part number. There are more than likely some physical differences.

You have to have a AFR Rev Kit to work with the Comp R's if you are going to run them....

Long story short I just had a set of the new Comp R lifters in the shop, they are going back in favor of a set of Morel lifters. The older Comp R's are a really well made nice lifter (i've run them with much success), but the newer ones made by another supplier are junk in comparison, but yet they cost the same price, now you know how someone can go out of business making really good stuff for cheap (or too little $$$) The only way to tell if you have new or old is the retainer clip design.

Grip, yeah you have the old LE2 cam from Joe and probably some 977's so good lifters are definately a good idea with that.

Bret

AFR rev kit for Comp-R lifters has a different part number. There are more than likely some physical differences.

Really :confused:

From AFR...
Small Block Chevy* w/factory lifters - Part #6155
Small Block Chevy* w/Seal Power or Speed Pro style lifters - Part #6150**
Chevy* Sm. Blk. w/factory lifters & twisted wedge heads - Part #6156
Chevy* Sm. Blk. w/twisted wedge heads & Seal Power or Speed Pro style lifters - Part #6151**
V6 Chevy* w/factory lifters - Part #6157
V6 Chevy* w/Seal Power or Speed Pro style lifters - Part #6152**
Hydra-Rev Kit Installation Tool - Part #6158

The only way to tell if you have new or old is the retainer clip design.


Yeah the old ones are gold colored I believe and the new ones are silver. The new ones seem to depress more easily as well. I have both sets sitting in my garage.

Gripenfelter

I'm not sure if you have found the problem yet, here's another possibilty............The last time I had a strange rattle in the intake area it turned out to be a wiped cam lobe. Damn astempered(-sp) Comp cams. The big down side was loosing my old Comp R's, plus the cam :cry: ....Well, atleast I use all billet cores from now on. I have also seen a crane Billet 846 do the same thing so... :eek: Hope it turns out to be just a mismatch for ya! Lots cheaper......

Jimbob

Gripenfelter

I'm not sure if you have found the problem yet, here's another possibilty............The last time I had a strange rattle in the intake area it turned out to be a wiped cam lobe. Damn astempered(-sp) Comp cams. The big down side was loosing my old Comp R's, plus the cam :cry: ....Well, atleast I use all billet cores from now on. I have also seen a crane Billet 846 do the same thing so... :eek: Hope it turns out to be just a mismatch for ya! Lots cheaper......

Jimbob

You lost a Comp Cam lobe?

Hmm,,, so did I, on the Feeble305 on an XE262H flat tappet. #6 intake and exhaust, and # 8 exhaust, and it took about 3000 miles ( and about 40 quarter mile passes) to wipe them out to the point where the valves wouldnt open anymore.

I replaced the cam with another Comp Camshaft( XE268H) . I pulled it a few weeks ago (with 2000 miles on it) and there it was, on exhaust lobe #6: The lobe was worn, and down on lift about .030". I made darned sure to follow break in procedure exactly as prescribed in both cases.

I replaced it with an Edelbrock cam, but wouldnt you know, the cam has the same casting marks: Probably made by Comp Cams for Edelbrock. :rolleyes:

I'm going to something other than Comp next time just for sanity check.

You have to have a AFR Rev Kit to work with the Comp R's if you are going to run them....

Long story short I just had a set of the new Comp R lifters in the shop, they are going back in favor of a set of Morel lifters. The older Comp R's are a really well made nice lifter (i've run them with much success), but the newer ones made by another supplier are junk in comparison, but yet they cost the same price, now you know how someone can go out of business making really good stuff for cheap (or too little $$$) The only way to tell if you have new or old is the retainer clip design.

Grip, yeah you have the old LE2 cam from Joe and probably some 977's so good lifters are definately a good idea with that.

Bret

Bret, if he use beehive (26918) springs,it will be better for lifters when he doesnt use a hydra rev kit right? cc977 have much more close pressure than beehives.

I run the LE3 cam/LE3 heads and Comp R' lifters with an AFR Hydra rev, been like that for a few years never a problem.

What is the exact specs of the LE3 cam?