Supercharger/Motor Suggestions

I have been looking into building a supercharged motor. I have a fresh block to start with. I am wanting to do a 355 with a Procharger, probably the p600b to start out. I plan on getting a set of heads/cam to go along with the new motor. I am looking to reach the 450-475 range. I would like to know some info on the internal components for the motor, I realized I'll need forged parts, but what are some recommendations and does the entire motor need to be forged, or just the pistons/rods. Also what type of compression ratio should I shoot for.
Also any heads/cam suggestions??
Thanks

Really, for your HP goals, a good stock cranks and some forged I beams along with some good forged pistons will be plenty. You can always go with a forged crank if the added security will make you feel better but the stock crank is actually very strong. A buddy of mine had a 1996 Z that made 574 RWHP with 10 pounds of boost and he was using a stock crank, forged I beams and JE blower pistons. As far as the CR, about 8.5 to 9.0 to 1 would be good for you.

If all you want is power at that level, I am not sure you need a blower and wouldn't be better off with a good NA motor. But if you want to go the blower route, the stock crank and rods are fine, all you need are a good set of pistons. Now, if you want to build it up for more boost later, it's another story.

Rich

That power is a idea range, I'm not real familiar with the power levels I can achieve with the blower. If I can get more thats great. I just want it to be reliable and will build it accordingly. What about the injectors/ fuel system requirements.

Insane levels of hp can be obtained with forced induction. But the more hp you make, the more it costs and the more compromises you must make. Each sucessve increment in power costs proportionately more, and as hp increaes, more and more time and money must be spent upgrading the supporting components. You reach a point of diminishing returns very quickly.

You need to decide what you want to build. A horsepoer goal is not really logical - you don't drive hp, you drive a car. Questions like: "how fast do I want to go?", and "what is important to me? (drivability, emissions, reliability, etc.) need to be answered along with "how much do i want to spend?" before getting specific. There are many possibilities.

Rich

Reliability is concern, as well as cost to some extent. I don't have an exact budget, but I ballpark that I would like to stay around. Not going to be a low budget build, but not top of the line either...more like a middle of the road. Emissions are not a concern, neither is how fast it goes.....it very seldom sees the track and I feel it'll be plenty fast enough for me with the blower. I basically want to build a reliable supercharged motor, something I can start with now and build upon later for more power if I want.

I looking for info such as what pistons, with what heads to net the compression ratio I need. Maybe some suggestions on proven heads/cam combo for FI cars, etc.

Thanks,
Nick

IMO if you want to build a reliable motor and you have concerns about cr ratio, I would talk to a reputable machine, or performance shop and have them go over your cars specs. I would recommend srp pistons if you just want a name thrown out at you. I use a set of srp pistons in my motor and I can tell you that they are not cheap, but the are highly recommended.

My recommendation for a reliable, but quick car would be thouroughly inspected stock crank, steel rods, srp disched pistons, mild ported heads, and a mild blower cam. I think the cam is a very important area to focus on because it can make or break a boosted car. I would also see about upgrading the rearend and having your transmission inspected. Reliablity comes from a complete package and if you don't cover all of your areas you could be looking at a powerful motor and car that never moves because of other issues.

P.S. some sort intake air cooling is very important for daily driving I would recommend a very good air to air intercooler twins would be good because the do not retrict radiator air flow. RKrause is a freakin genius so his word and engineermike's words are as good as gold. Search for some of their post and you will find many answers.

I know of at least one person on this forum that made over 500 RWHP with an S-Trim with nothing more than a Hotcam Kit, cheap TRW forged dished pistons, 50 lb injectors, and a fuel pump. Everything else in the engine was completely stock and with 14 PSI of non-intercooled boost made 513 RWHP and 632 RWHP with a 100 shot of nitrous, and I'm sure there are many more that have had similar results. Your goal is extremely attainable, and with tuning should be pretty reliable as well.

I would go with Diamond Blower/Turbo pistons before I would go with SRP. The Diamond's are made from stronger aluminum than the SRP's and are about the same price. Pics of my Diamond -22cc Blower pistons are in my sig.

Here is a quote from Diamond Racing's Q&A on their website.







What material are your pistons made from?
We use two different materials, 2618 & 4032. 2618 is used in most of our severe duty / power adder applications. It requires slightly more piston to wall clearance and can stand up to the abuse of a power adder. 4032 is used for applications that are more on the mild side. 4032 has less of a expansion rate which allows us to use it with tighter piston to wall clearances. This is great for direct replacement factory pistons. Call one of our tech's and they will let you know which material is good for your application.




This is from SRP's description of their blower piston.






8.0-11.1 Compression Ratio

Forged from 4032 low expansion high silicon aluminum alloy heat treated to SRP specifications
Ring land and crown thickness specifically engineered for turbo, supercharged and nitrous applications
Forced Pin Oiler for increased wrist pin lubrication
Pin fitting and double spiro locks included
927-2750-150 wall wrist pin (130 grams) included
CNC Machined ring grooves accept 1/16 1/16 3/16 rings (Rings Sold Seperately)
Optional tool steel pins available.

Thanks for all your replies. I think I have a rough plan lined out.
355 w/ forged SRP pistons (I'm gonna check out diamond), Scat forged I beam rods, and the stock crank. I will probably start out with stock ported heads. I'm still in search of some fuel system opinions/recommendations as well as ignition products.
What about head gaskets and piston rings??
Thanks again,
Nick

KY95Z28,
PM sent about a stock crank that I have. Also, as far as the fuel system, the stock fuel lines will be fine, just replace your in-tank pump with a good 255 LPH (Racetronix is nice with their plug and play harness) and use an MSD or Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (the Racetronix harness is already set up for plug and play with a boost-a-pump) and you should be good to go. I am planning on using a converter box and low impedence injectors to get rid of the FMU but it is up to you and how much you want to spend.

Just to clarify, you do not need the versafueler and low impedance injectors to do without the FMU, these are needed for higher power levels where more fuel is needed with injectors larger than 60 lb per hour. Up to 60 lb injectors can be used with the stock PCM. I would recommend injectors and tuning instead of using an FMU. The 255 with a boost-a-pump with the stock supply lines and fuel rails will support up to 700 RWHP. I would suggest 50 lb injectors for your application. The fel-pro 1074 head gaskets are a popular head gasket for nitrous and boosted applications on the LT1.

Thanks for the replies....