synthetic to regular oil

Can you go from synthetic to regular oil?

To the best of my knowledge, you can. But, why would you want to? Mobile 1 usually runs about $23 for 6 qts. at Wal-Mart.

Can you go from synthetic to regular oil?


Yes you can. Good choice. The only regrets you will have is all the money you have spent out for the syn. oil in the past.

Use Havoline 10-30. You can't go wrong.

BTW, I have oil reports from Blackstone Labs, www.blackstone-labs.com and I am telling you, regular over synthetic is much better for our engines, and the wear is MUCH less. Most people think that if one oil is cheaper than the other, that it is no good. You are paying for a brand name, and expensive labels when you buy any synthetic, including AmsOil and Mobil 1.

Disclaimer: I am NOT going to argue about this w/ anyone. Everyone has their own opinions, but I changed my mind when I seen lab analysis, over and over again.

Good luck!

I use what I call 1/2 n' 1/2 (semi-synthetic). And I also will use Angela's first sentence in her disclaimer. :)

BTW, I have oil reports from Blackstone Labs, www.blackstone-labs.com and I am telling you, regular over synthetic is much better for our engines, and the wear is MUCH less.

Interesting. Link?

regular oil is cheaper but so many people use synthetic incorrectly and dont get to see the benefit..

so lets see..

Valvoline at 1.87 a qt.. 6 qts per change thats 11.22
Filter.. hmm how about AC Delco at 4.50
so for this change we are spending 15.72 and will do so again in 3K miles.

now .. for mobil 1.
5qts at 19.87. thats 3.97 a qt.. so 23.85 for the 6 qts..
mobil 1 filter.. thats $10.00
33.85 for a change..

and I wont change it for another 7500-12000 miles..

looks like synthetic wins in my book..

the myth ive always heard was you couldnt convert back to regular oil because it would gel up and clog your oil pump. totally unfounded as i only use mobil-1 but after h/c installed mechanic used regular. no problems, but back to synthetic.

as far as lab results, not all oil is the same. anybody who deals with military fuels, oils, etc. know you must present a thermal,cold-friction, and pre/post particle analysis. they want the better grade materials for the lower price, but bottom line is they want the better stuff. tolerances are not a big deal to every day people, with everyday vehicles. try handing john force some oil off the shelf and see if he uses it. or put k-mart oil in anything from a f-14 to a humvee.

as far as lab results, not all oil is the same. anybody who deals with military fuels, oils, etc. know you must present a thermal,cold-friction, and pre/post particle analysis. they want the better grade materials for the lower price, but bottom line is they want the better stuff. tolerances are not a big deal to every day people, with everyday vehicles. try handing john force some oil off the shelf and see if he uses it. or put k-mart oil in anything from a f-14 to a humvee.

No, you can use any sample, as long as it is mid stream from your oil change.
I am not going to argue w/ a company that has been doing reliable oil results
for so many years. Just call Blackstone, I am sure they can explain it better to you :)

As far as k-mart oil, I have seen Mobil 1 down to Penzoil 30 at walmart, I don't see your point.

I'm interested in hearing more from 350 HRSS and the samples sent in vs. the reports that were received. Did you send in a synthetic vs. regular sample to compare the two? What were their responses in the multiple oil reports you have? The other f-body I had ran regular for the first 36,000 miles and I never had any problems with it. Just curious what you heard back.

I'm interested in hearing more from 350 HRSS and the samples sent in vs. the reports that were received. Did you send in a synthetic vs. regular sample to compare the two? What were their responses in the multiple oil reports you have? The other f-body I had ran regular for the first 36,000 miles and I never had any problems with it. Just curious what you heard back.

I had sent in AmsOil, Mobil 1 and Havoline (regular) samples. I can possibly email you a document or 2 if you like, just send me an email at: hotrodn350@hotmail.com

Their responses were better, and much more encouraging when I used the regular Havoline oil. The oil was cleaner every time. The car I am talking about has 93k on it. I also do the reports on the 99 TA and the 95 V6. When I bought the 99 TA, it had synthetic in it, and I did a sample off of it.
It had shown more metal in the sample. When I put the Havoline in it, the reports were much more encouraging wear-wise. I used to dog people that used regular oils, as I was very faithful to AmsOil, AND their filters.

I am getting ready to leave for the day, but I will try to check my email tonight, if you want to see a sample report.

:)

ur all mite not break down for 7k, but it's still going to get dirty before that in most cases. Changing all frequently is money well spent, in my opinion.

I used to use Mobil 1, 5W 30, but have recently switched to Dino oil 10w40. Had some issues with valve train and just didn't want to take any chances with my all.

I believe "synthetic" all includes mineral based as well as man/women made lubes. The exact formulas for different brands may vary and the conclusive evidence, in my opinion, has not been determined. Hyped, yes. Factually determinded--not so much.

My SS came with Quaker syns throughout and then they switched to Mobil 1 (for vettes too.)

Dino products have been around for a long time and they have improved greatly over the years. I believe that today's dinos will do the job needed to be done. JMHO :cool:

and I wont change it for another 7500-12000 miles...

It's too dirty and dusty around here to go that long. 4,000 miles tops in my book.

I had sent in AmsOil, Mobil 1 and Havoline (regular) samples. I can possibly email you a document or 2 if you like, just send me an email at: hotrodn350@hotmail.com

Their responses were better, and much more encouraging when I used the regular Havoline oil. The oil was cleaner every time. The car I am talking about has 93k on it. I also do the reports on the 99 TA and the 95 V6. When I bought the 99 TA, it had synthetic in it, and I did a sample off of it.
It had shown more metal in the sample. When I put the Havoline in it, the reports were much more encouraging wear-wise. I used to dog people that used regular oils, as I was very faithful to AmsOil, AND their filters.

I am getting ready to leave for the day, but I will try to check my email tonight, if you want to see a sample report.

:)

For used oil, Cleaner is bad, it means more crap is being left in the motor and less is being washed out by the detergents in the oil.

A member on this board did his own oil analysis and found catrol 0w30 (german made) or 0w40 local made to have the best results in terms of metal wear, i guess the results depend on how the tests were done and who you talk to.

regular oil is cheaper but so many people use synthetic incorrectly and dont get to see the benefit..

so lets see..

Valvoline at 1.87 a qt.. 6 qts per change thats 11.22
Filter.. hmm how about AC Delco at 4.50
so for this change we are spending 15.72 and will do so again in 3K miles.

now .. for mobil 1.
5qts at 19.87. thats 3.97 a qt.. so 23.85 for the 6 qts..
mobil 1 filter.. thats $10.00
33.85 for a change..

and I wont change it for another 7500-12000 miles..

looks like synthetic wins in my book..
Are you crazy????????????? When I used mobil one i had to change the oil at least every 2k miles or the engine would start sounding a bit more mechanical....

So no, it doesn't win in my book.
I use havoline 30HD and change it every 700-800miles.

Are you crazy????????????? When I used mobil one i had to change the oil at least every 2k miles or the engine would start sounding a bit more mechanical....

So no, it doesn't win in my book.
I use havoline 30HD and change it every 700-800miles.

umm...isnt the engine mechanical? gears, pulleys etc.

"No, you can use any sample, as long as it is mid stream from your oil change.
I am not going to argue w/ a company that has been doing reliable oil results
for so many years. Just call Blackstone, I am sure they can explain it better to you

As far as k-mart oil, I have seen Mobil 1 down to Penzoil 30 at walmart, I don't see your point."

actually what exactly is your point angela? if you have seen from mobil 1 to oil brand xxxx123 whatever, then you will my point that not all or half or even a quarter of oils are the same. no more than coke and pepsi are the same soda, many have the same ingrediants if you will but totally differant signature. their are people in the oil industry you can send your "blackstone" samples or any sample and they can tell exactly what country is was drawn from right down to what pool its from. oil signature its called. but i guess that doesnt exist because "all oil is the same"
i see you didnt what to argue this, fine with me but you did. i was making a statement that all oil is NOT the same at all.

but totally differant signature. their are people in the oil industry you can send your "blackstone" samples or any sample and they can tell exactly what country is was drawn from right down to what pool its from. oil signature its called. but i guess that doesnt exist because "all oil is the same"

Oil signature (aka bio-marker) works for crude oil, not refined. Oil gets pumped in the field, stored in a tank in the field that several wells may go to, piped through common lines (that companies across the country also use) to a plant or transport station and dumped into a large holding tank with oil from other places. By the time it gets to the plant it would have so many different signatures intermingled.

Then you have the refining process that in it's self would destroy signatures. The purpose of the refining process is to create a standard base product to which each company may add various detergents and additives. That said, I have seen where some oils are better than others. I've seen where Valvoline tends to hold a sligtly higher pressure at temp. My grandpa (who was a mechanic) wouldn't use Texaco because it was dirty, and I've seen low milage engines that were trash because of it. But, Texaco isn't Texaco anymore either.

Personally, I run Valvoline. I tried syn, but my car would go through a 1/2 qt w/in 3k miles while it uses no conventional oil in that time period.

As for generic oil, Walmart's oil is Quaker State. Found that out from a friend I have the works in Wallyworld Corporate HQ. I'm sure K-mart's is another name brand. Ever see a K-mart or Walmart refinery? The answer would be no because they get someone else to refine it and bottle it. I work in a chemical company. We make our same products to our specs, bottle them and lable them with another company's lables on a daily basis. This is exactly how generic oil is.

The great oil debate....gotta love it

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Personally I run Amsoil in everything I own after my first oil change. I have pulled enough motors apart run on dino vs. synthetic to see how much cleaner a motor run on synth is inside. I do burn a *tiny* bit more oil with synthetic...but it's a small price to pay for piece of mind.

I use regular oil, 10w-30 and add an oil additive made by STP which basically makes it synthetic, it runs about 3.99$ at autozone and according to the guy at auto zone the oil will basically be sythetic

The great oil debate....gotta love it

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Personally I run Amsoil in everything I own after my first oil change. I have pulled enough motors apart run on dino vs. synthetic to see how much cleaner a motor run on synth is inside. I do burn a *tiny* bit more oil with synthetic...but it's a small price to pay for piece of mind.

That totally makes sense, as it was mentioned earlier in this thread that the dino oils "come out cleaner", i.e., they leave the engine dirtier.

Oil signature (aka bio-marker) works for crude oil, not refined. Oil gets pumped in the field, stored in a tank in the field that several wells may go to, piped through common lines (that companies across the country also use) to a plant or transport station and dumped into a large holding tank with oil from other places. By the time it gets to the plant it would have so many different signatures intermingled.

btw i used the name k-mart picking one of a million out of the air, i have no preferance to k-mart, walmart, havoline, whatever. i dont know which oil is the best or worst. military supply contractors like my wife cant disclose that but its a premium brand under a differant name that 4 of the 5 branches call the best.

crude is signature but your wrong in thinking processed oil isnt. a new signature "additive" is added to that lot/line much like gasoline has a registered dye to track branding. amoco is clear, shell is .05% green added. (sulpher extract) and so on. the only one almost impossible to track is off road kerosene or diesel since it uses an aftermarket red dye.

crude is signature but your wrong in thinking processed oil isnt. a new signature "additive" is added to that lot/line much like gasoline has a registered dye to track branding. amoco is clear, shell is .05% green added. (sulpher extract) and so on. The only one almost impossible to track is off road kerosene or diesel since it uses an aftermarket red dye.

The point I was making is that a given quart of oil may contain oil from several different sources, and the refining process and duration in the engine would destroy said signatures. So your statement about being able to tell which field and even well an engine oil sample came from is not correct. A registered dye will do nothing but tell the manufacturer, not what you claimed these labs could do with an used oil sample. Additives and dyes are in no way an oil signature or bio-marker. That would be like claiming a tatoo and a birth mark are the same.

I use regular oil, 10w-30 and add an oil additive made by STP which basically makes it synthetic, it runs about 3.99$ at autozone and according to the guy at auto zone the oil will basically be sythetic

There is nothing that can convert organic to synthetic. Sounds like Alchemy to me. Wonder if the stuff will convert lead to gold too.

I use regular oil, 10w-30 and add an oil additive made by STP which basically makes it synthetic, it runs about 3.99$ at autozone and according to the guy at auto zone the oil will basically be sythetic

and you want to believe an outrageous claim made my such a reliable source at AutoZone?? Are there really many creditable people working there?

especially when they state that by adding fluid from one bottle, it will somehow take natural oil and make it synthetic?

me thinks you have been had...

Plus most additives are detrimental to your engine.... many contain solids such as Teflon. This does nothing "good" for the motor or it's oil filter

Personally I think people get too deep into this. In my experience, as long as you keep a good oil change interval and stay within the parameters of the manufacturer's suggestion your engine ain't gonna cry about it.

hey guys i recently have switched to synthetic high mileage -i believe by valvoline on my 96 z-noticed a difference from changin to synthietic. I hope its not my imagination for the extra money for it.:)

I'll be using nothing but regular oil in my new engine. I almost regret ever having switched to synthetic on this one. Just plain not worth it in my opinion.

The point I was making is that a given quart of oil may contain oil from several different sources, and the refining process and duration in the engine would destroy said signatures. So your statement about being able to tell which field and even well an engine oil sample came from is not correct. A registered dye will do nothing but tell the manufacturer, not what you claimed these labs could do with an used oil sample. Additives and dyes are in no way an oil signature or bio-marker. That would be like claiming a tatoo and a birth mark are the same.

look im not trying to be a smartass or hard ass or anything. i dont know much about fixing ls1's or anycar for that matter or nor can i throw a spiral football. but i work 60+ hours a week doing petroleum electronics, working with relatively high ranking royal dutch shell engineers. i know what im talking about. if oil a is from one pool and so is b but not c, a and b will be close after refinement but not the same because of no perfect calibration in skimming and "washing" process, as the machines get more sludged up it lets by more starter crude. lot is finished, impellers have sludge blow off, new lot begins. c from a differant pool will have more/less carbon and other elements or even shale in its crude, shale is stripped out but not the carbon.

look im not trying to be a smartass or hard ass or anything. i dont know much about fixing ls1's or anycar for that matter or nor can i throw a spiral football. but i work 60+ hours a week doing petroleum electronics, working with relatively high ranking royal dutch shell engineers. i know what im talking about. if oil a is from one pool and so is b but not c, a and b will be close after refinement but not the same because of no perfect calibration in skimming and "washing" process, as the machines get more sludged up it lets by more starter crude. lot is finished, impellers have sludge blow off, new lot begins. c from a differant pool will have more/less carbon and other elements or even shale in its crude, shale is stripped out but not the carbon.

Hey I bet there's bugs, a few small vermin, and maybe even some crumbs of some guy's sandwich in the oil too!

Hey I bet there's bugs, a few small vermin, and maybe even some crumbs of some guy's sandwich in the oil too!

lol....yeah, come down to one of the delaware city plants and you can probably watch some of the guys piss in your oil too.

Are you crazy????????????? When I used mobil one i had to change the oil at least every 2k miles or the engine would start sounding a bit more mechanical....

So no, it doesn't win in my book.
I use havoline 30HD and change it every 700-800miles.

Ok, just because you're an oil-changing Nazi doesn't mean that's the way it's gotta be.

800 miles to an oil change? Well, whatever floats your boat.

I also use Mobil-1 and change it about every 5K-7K without ANY drawbacks, and I've been doing it for a LONG time. Synthetic is worth every penny.

Yes i am a bit nazi but its usually because i am a bit tough on my engines, and they are always like new for it. Besides they tend to get very dirty here... I change it on my bikes at 600-800 miles. Still.... when the engine is pushing it...you should help your engine on every bit. Mobil one will NOT last more than 3k miles for me. PERIOD.

I did not find any definitive evidence to suggest that synthetic is superior or inferior on their website.

The only reason they presented for not using synthetic was because the additives made it hard to test for problems with the engine.

Instead of just linking to the website, perhaps you should consider linking to an article that supports your theory.

- Z28WannaB

I had sent in AmsOil, Mobil 1 and Havoline (regular) samples. I can possibly email you a document or 2 if you like, just send me an email at: hotrodn350@hotmail.com

Their responses were better, and much more encouraging when I used the regular Havoline oil. The oil was cleaner every time. The car I am talking about has 93k on it. I also do the reports on the 99 TA and the 95 V6. When I bought the 99 TA, it had synthetic in it, and I did a sample off of it.
It had shown more metal in the sample. When I put the Havoline in it, the reports were much more encouraging wear-wise. I used to dog people that used regular oils, as I was very faithful to AmsOil, AND their filters.

I am getting ready to leave for the day, but I will try to check my email tonight, if you want to see a sample report.

:)