building sub boxes?

Im going to be building a sub box for my car and im going to be running two audiobahn 12s but im not sure how to go about doing this, this will be my first box ive built so I have a few questions.... here are the specs on the subs

PHAT 2 Foam Surround
* Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone
* KM3 Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion
* Single 4 Ohm Voice Coil
* Multi-connect Lug Lock Terminals
* Magnet Weight: 80 oz.
* Mounting Depth: 5 5/8"
* Hole Cutout: 11 1/2"
* Outer Diameter: 12 3/4"
* rec. selaed box dims: 0.75 - 2.00 cu.ft.
* rec. ported box dims: 1.30 - 3.20 cu.ft.
* sensitivity: 92.8 dB
* frequency response: 26-1,000 Hz
* recommendes RMS power: 550W
* peak power handling: 1100W
* impedance: 4 ohms
should i go for the top of the range of the sealed box dims? or maybe for the mid? and when i find out what size boxes i need to make do i need to figure in the amount of space the sub will take up inside the box? any help would be great

Ok, I found out that the specs .75-2.0 are the specs with the sub in place....so I did 18x18x13 with 3/4 mdf and got 1.812ft^3 does that sound about right? so now i have this i go and cut my wood into 18 and 13 inch sections and go to work building the box?

Depends on what type of sound you want from your subs, and how much room you have to work.

I made my box for my Z28 custom out of fiberblass and wood :)

A larger box will give you a beefier, slightly more "boomy" sound, and smaller box, a "tighter" sound. I like to have my sealed boxes in the larger range for the woofer.

When you join the boards together, use a bead of liquid nail between the surfaces, and you can either use drywall screws or normal wood screws. I like to use decking screws that have the two different kinds of thread on them, once the smaller thread hits the wood, it pulls the boards together like nobodies business!! They're amazing, i love them.

Also, take the time to predrill pilot holes where you'll be putting the screws, it's just common sense and you'll be much happier when your misaligned screw doesn't come out the inside of the box :P

Use a router if available to cut the hole for the sub, using the template that usually comes with the sub. If you're using a terminal cup, go ahead and cut the hole for it now. Don't forget to silicone around this too. When you have everything together but the top piece, go ahead and silicone all the corners to ensure no leakage. Use in a well ventilated area to kill a minimum of brain cells. As always, exercise caution when operation sharp power tools.

Carpet now if you like, and go ahead and put the top on. Let the silicone dry for a while so the fumes don't damage your sub, install and pound :cool: