Hey guys this getting hot issue is driving me crazy. I have a blown 383 A4 Camaro and I have a Meziere HD Pump, Dual Spal fans, and a huge griffin radiator and the car continues to get hot. It runs around 220-225 on a hot day. I have the A/C condensor still in the car but I am considering taking it out to have more airflow to the radiator. I would like to keep the A/C but I continue to see cars with this setup building a substantial amount of power tossing the A/C for more airflow. I would prefer for my motor to run cool than to have A/C and sacrifice overheating a $10,000 motor. I would like to see who kept the A/C and managed to run cool.

 

225 doesn't really soundlike its overheating, from the factory our cars are programmed to turn the cooling fans on at about that temp. Blower cars will usually run a little hotter than a NA car anyway. I would look into some kind of FMIC instead of removing the AC.

 

I already have a FMIC and 225 is with the A/C off. I don't have freon in the A/C yet but if it runs at 225 with the A/C off it will definitely run hotter once the A/C is on. I think anything higher than 225 is too hot but I could be wrong. I was thinking of removing the hot tranny fluid circulating in the radiator and getting my tranny cooler and running it by itself with a small fan. This may be an alternative to removing the A/C.
I wonder if M6 guys have this issue? Anyone??

 

I know exactly how you feel man, I went though that crap last summer. I had a little 2 core fmic on my a4 z28 too. Did you remove the plastic tabs in the front of the condensor and the radiator?. also are you running an aftermarket converter?. Are you runnign the fans on a switch by any chance?

 

Thank God someone who knows how I feel. I am so frustrated with this crap!!!
I have a 3 core IC and Yes I have a vigilante 3600 stall and my fans pretty much are on all the time. How did you finally solve the problem?

 

The 3-core in the "under radiator" location will block a lot of airflow. This contributes to higher temps even on stock motors. Most 383's will run fine even with the stock rad if you relocate the intercooler. There is a reason Procharger offers the twin intercoolers now instead of a 3-core.

 

But I have the intercooler mounted in front not in the "under radiator" position. I know it may still restrict some airflow but it is pretty far from the radiator/condensor assembly. Lonnie, what do you think if I bypass the tranny fluid from the radiator and just pass it through the tranny cooler. This should remove alot of extra heat from the radiator.

 

Do you have the under radiator spoiler still on the car? Do you have ground effects or something else in the front restricting airflow? Do you have the front undercar plastic installed? All this is meant to force air through the radiator.

You should be able to maintain under 220 with the air on in traffic & under 200 on the highway. I do this with the stock radiator.

The trans cooler idea will definitely help a few degrees.

Still undecided on the electric water pump. I do not use them personally.

Hope this helps.

 

Been there & had that happen...

First thing I looked at when I saw your post was your location. Miami is hot & humid- tough on cooling.

I had a P600B with my FMIC & removed the stock fans in favor of two 12" Perma-Cool units in the stock housing. Long story short- not enough airflow. 240+ degrees after a short drive & would not cool down (this was w/o the AC operating but with the condenser in place).

I went with a rear mount turbo mainly due to the fact that I wanted to run cool and have AC along with the power adder.

Went for a drive tonight with the AC on in 80 degree weather, <180 at idle and <210 on the highway (70 MPH). My car was dynoed last week @ 498 RWHP & 579 RWTQ and has a boost controller issue limiting power past 4700 RPM.

Here is my setup, front to rear:
1995 M6 TA (from what I've seen, the Z28s are easier to run a FMIC)
Foglights removed & bumper reinforcement cut for 5" ducting to blow air onto the IC
FMIC 3" core
B&M Supercooler oil cooler, 180 degree oil thermostat at filter
11" pusher fan in front of AC condenser
Stock AC condenser silicone sealed to radiator on sides
Be-Cool F-body radiator
Stock fans & shroud, shroud sealed to radiator as best as is possible w/ rubber tubing
160 thermostat w/ PCM adjusted for lower temps for fan on/off
383, LT4 heads & intake, 52MM TB, Mac mid-lengths, GMPP Hot cam
Master Power 62-1 home made rear mount turbo

I retained the chin spoiler and as much of the plastic on the sides as I could, this ducts air over the condenser.

What type of blower are you running?

In my opinion/experience, the engine bays of these cars are too packed to let air out once it is in, which is something many do not consider (me included until I put a 383 into an RX7 & had this same problem). A blower or turbo is doing two things that hurt you in operating temps:
1) They take up more room in the engine bay
2) They generate heat (compressing air)

I'm not well versed in A4 trannys, but know that high stall converters pile on the heat, and it has to go somewhere...

It has been stated here that there are many guys in hot (90+) weather running front mounts & AC so maybe they will chime in.

 

Still have the air dam (brand new), I do have ground effects but the front has a cutout to allow airflow, and I still have the plastics on. Can you give me a detailed description of your setup so I can try and copy it? I wish I can get the temps you mentioned above but for now it is impossible. By the way thanks for taking time in helping me with this its truly a pain not being able to solve a problem and exhausting all my options.

 

I also have a p600b with the FM 3-core intercooler. We have very similar setups except my car having an A4. I wonder if that can be my issue...the high stall generating alot of heat. I am going to try and relocate my tranny cooler with a fan and bypass the radiator and hopefully this will remove a good amount of heat from the rad. Also did the 11" pusher fan do any good. That sounds like it would affect airflow being mounted in front of the condenser.

 

I'm not certain you understood that I no longer have the P600B, this was the base cause of my temp problems and why I went with the rear mount turbo.

In theory I suppose it would block airflow somewhat, but I wired it to come on with the high speed circuit (includes AC) so I can get max airflow as needed, and it helps force air through the condenser.

Also note that Lonnie is in PA, a lot cooler there than here. That is where my V8 RX7 went.

 

Gotcha! I thought you had fixed the problem with the P600B.
This is the first thing I will try before I Bypass the tranny cooler. All I need is about a 10 degree drop and I should be good.

 

225 is fine! when i was roadracing my big powerful motors, I was seeing sustained temps of 240 or so.

as others said, getting that 3 core out of the way will help.. but I ran a 3 core in front of my rad (front mount) but retained the under chin scoop for the rad.

stock rad +383+turbo+700rw and it stayed under 230 even in 100degree rush hour. (spal fans)

 

I dont know what to say about all you guys overheating except for there has to be something wrong. My car has been blown for over 5 years down here in hot humid florida with no problems what so ever. I have ran the p600b with the 2core in the stock location, p600b with a front mount, D1 with the twin intercoolers and pretty soon the D1 with a larger front mount. Temps are always around 200degrees all year round. It did climb up to 210 a couple of times duing stop and go beach cruises in dead summer but never to a temp to be concerned about. My car is a daily driver with all accesories and AC.