lowering kits

I am thinking about lowering my car. My cousin works at bell tire and told me ts a bad idea beacause it tears up ball joints, has any one had this problem?

Also i only want to drop it an inch or so are DMS springs available to make this possible or is a eibach pro-kit what i'm looking for?

Also i do understand about the relocation brackets and panhard bar. but i saw a k-member for sale for $300 bucks how hard is it to put it in and in new arms, and can i still use my old struts?

And does any one have a before and after pic of what there car looked liked before and after there drop?

ANY INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL i have caught the bug to change things on the car Thank you for any info. :bow:

i dont think lowering you car will cause ball join damage.. maybe im wrong?

I have heard good word of mouth reviews about dms springs. Im thinking of getting a set myself.

DMS and the prokit springs will drop the car about 1.3-1.5"

i know the BMR springs supposedly drop 1" but i havn't heard any FIRST HAND info on how exact that is.

relocation brackets help return the proper geometry to the rear axle. reducing wheel hop and increasing traction.

the panhard bar re-centers the axle side to side since after lowering it is 1/4-1/2" off center. this isn't a big deal in most cases but if you run wide tires they can rub on one side in hard corners.

I've had the eibach kit that lowers about 1.5"...it's been on a few years can't remember it's exact name...my buddy has the 2" drop...I like mine cause it still has decent ground clearance...his scraps on everything...but his looks REALLY good...

I have the BMR springs and the drop is only an inch, although I never exactly measured it :D I like them so far, it was a nice subltle drop and the stance is perfect now, IMO.

Springs and shocks work together to improve your handling; I highly suggest to replace both. My Eibach Pro springs dropped my ride height by 1"; this provides better handling by lowering the center of gravity and the stiffer spprings, along with a set of Bilstein re-valved shocks, really improved the cornering. Also the 1" drop still provides decent ground clearance for speed bumps.

You'll have no problems with your ball joints. My suspension's been modified for 100K miles and I just replaced my ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc at 146K miles and the old parts still looked decent.

As stated above, get some LCA relocation brackets to allow you to correct your LCA angle after lowering.

I also recommend to upgrade your sway bars; I'm running 35mm front and 21mm rear.

Sam Strano at stranoparts.com is a F-Body suspension expert that will take the time to discuss with you how to setup your suspension for the driving style you want.

As far as the tubular K-member, I have the BMR and love the access it frees up under the car.

thank you for all i the info it helps me out alot :bow: :bow: :bow:

I have purchased hotchkis sport soil springs which drop it about an inch and hotchkis hp1000 shocks for front and rear, also I got bmr lower control arms with the reloaction bracket and a hotchkis adjustable pan hard bar. Should I get an adjustable or non adjustable torque arm??? I use my car at the strip and the track every once in a while but mostly just as an awesome show car. :cz28:

i have a tubular k-member from pa racing the only problem i've run into is the bolts, i needed to get new ones because the original bolts are 3 different sizes and the tubular k-member has pockets so it needs short bolts, anyway

i pulled my motor to install my k-member, but you dont have to if u can find a way to support the motor when u drop the kmember, its only 8 bolts for the k-member and 2 for the motor mounts, put plenty of pb blaster or liquid wrench and let it soak, you'll be fine

and if u get new control arms for the front, u dont need to take the old ones off the old k-member