which is better 98 or 99 for this price...

We looked at a 99 m6 today with leather and ttops and at first the dealer wanted 15k!!! It was a blast to drive though!!! :metal: i was like get the f out of here lol! it had 82k on her and we talked them down to 13k and they would not take 11.5k which we were trying to get her for. and today we seen a 98 m6 for 11k with 78k on her with same options so which should i get thanx!!

We looked at a 99 m6 today with leather and ttops and at first the dealer wanted 15k!!! It was a blast to drive though!!! i was like get the f out of here lol! it had 82k on her and we talked them down to 13k and they would not take 11.5k which we were trying to get her for. and today we seen a 98 m6 for 11k with 78k on her with same options so which should i get thanx!!

98 for sure. fewer miles and same options at a cheaper price. maybe somethings wrong

98 for sure. fewer miles and same options at a cheaper price. maybe somethings wrong

i bought a 99 t/a today. it had same stuff manual,leather, t-tops. it only had 29500 miles on it. i got it for 12,600. (14000 out the door after taxes title and license fees and dealership fee). they were asking 14,995. hope that helps.

thats an awesome price. Nothing like that ever over here, they were asking for 28 thousand for the same car u explained lol! why would u say somethings wrong it is at different dealerships also we are checking it out tomorrow wut r somethings i should look for thanx! :bow:

well i am originally from indiana, and i have seen that out there its best to get it from a private seller. i have seen some good prices from private sellers but dealers always ask a lot. they always play out how they are so rare since they are not made anymore. they are not that rare and dealers like to mark them up a lot for that. the main thing with the dealer is go in there with a good price in mind that you want to pay and dont give in to them. i have been to many dealerships and bargained with them and thats pretty much it.

Skip the 98. They suck to work on (perimeter bolt valve covers) and tuning is handicapped. Get the 99. :)

Skip the 98. They suck to work on (perimeter bolt valve covers) and tuning is handicapped. Get the 99. :)


Agreed, I would avoid 98's for those reasons, plus poor oil pump design, weaker cylinder liners, the goofy ass computer system, and I'm sure theres other things if I sit here for another minute or two.

I'd confront the dealers of the 99 with that price. It has lower mileage, and it isn't like they'll bring up the maintenance handicaps. ;)

Neither, hold out for something lower milage at a better price or come to Texas to buy one.
My 00 SS w/55k miles as an example has a kbb retail value of $16650.

Agreed, I would avoid 98's for those reasons, plus poor oil pump design, weaker cylinder liners, the goofy ass computer system, and I'm sure theres other things if I sit here for another minute or two.

i have a 98, are any of these things worthy of upgrades? ive never heard that the computer is goofy, what exactly are the handicaps? seems like the cylinder liners and valve bolt design is unchangable for the most part

I just got a 02 for 23,000 after taxes, Im in Texas.

My 02 Z28 had 36,6## on it and i got it for $15,800. You know why? The dealership messed up the pricing on Cars.com, and they had to sell it for that. :D

I be happy.

there's nothing wrong with a 98. The computer uses a different program that's 98 only...not a big deal, you're either very smart or very dumb to program your own computer anyways and the handheld programmers are crap. The heads are different but not better or worse. The only real differencr would be if you had a choice to buy a 01-02. I've seen guys with 98 ss running 11's...they are fine if the price is right which is why I bought mine.

On a positive note the 98's have actual temp gages vs the dummy gage in the 99+. There is no meaningful difference in these two cars. They are both nice! Good Luck

The temp gayge in a 02 does not work?... at all?

what he means is the temp gauge works.. it stays on the far left, then as it warms up it goes up.. but whenever it's at operating temp, the needle practically stays in the center, no matter what the actual temp is.

That is so disconcerting...

Can you get a real gauge? I suddenly became that much more scared of spray.

what he means is the temp gauge works.. it stays on the far left, then as it warms up it goes up.. but whenever it's at operating temp, the needle practically stays in the center, no matter what the actual temp is.
Is there a way to fix that?

Also, thats a hell of a rip-off price for that '99, keep shopping.

I don't remember if it was the gauge itself, or a sensor.. or what...