sacarficing power

are any of yall guys sacarficing power for your optional nitrous...I.E. makin the gap on the plugs smaller??? retarding timing...richening up injectors for the shot???
is it a must to retard timing for any nitrous app.???
i want to run my car exactly how it is except get some ngk plugs so i dont melt them...same gap same timing everything so i have the exact same power except when i spray
and do yall guys reccomend dry or wet for an lt1...if i only do 75 or 100 occasionally with brand new rebuild stock specs baically full bolt on car...actually i spun a main they were .010 and rods were .020...is my block even still safe for it???
thanks
Daniel

Most manufactures say that you dont need to pull timing for a 75-100hp shot, and yes it is safe on a stock motor but if you have a spun bearing I wouldnt suggest it unless you want to rebuild right away! :eek: , and I personally prefer a wet kit allthough some may beg to differ.

get an NX wet kit and you will very happy.

Wet is much easier to tune.

Rich

Definitely a NX wet kit. :)

If you are going to do 75-100 shot then the NX wet kit is the way to go. I'd recommend the NX 20920-10 kit. That's the GM EFI stage 1 kit. NX actually advertises these systems require no engine modifications, operate on stock fuel pumps, and require no timing retards.

So you're good to go...

are any of yall guys sacarficing power for your optional nitrous...I.E. makin the gap on the plugs smaller??? retarding timing...richening up injectors for the shot???
is it a must to retard timing for any nitrous app.???
i want to run my car exactly how it is except get some ngk plugs so i dont melt them...same gap same timing everything so i have the exact same power except when i spray

thanks
Daniel
You don't sacrifice any power with a "bolt-on" nitrous setup. You still tune the engine to run at peak power on "motor", and then make the required adjustments only when you spray. Smaller plug gaps aren't going to cost you any power.

If you were building an engine for a really big shot, you would sacrifice some power with a wider LSA on the cam, heavier pistons, maybe a less stable piston from dropping the ring pack closer to the pin, etc. But for a bolt-on wet kit or dry kit, you aren't changing anything on your normal "all motor" tune.

I think you probably will lose a couple hp with smaller plug gaps off the bottle, very small. I don't have any data to back this up, just some common sense (shrouding the spark) and other peoples' meanderings. I'd test for the loss, but it's not worth wasting time testing.

I don't really think you need to tighten up the gap anyway. I spray almost 200 on the stock opti with the original plug wires. I do use colder plugs with a cut back sidewire to better expose the spark. With the colder plugs off the bottle you do run an increased risk of fouling, although I've had no trouble even in mildly colder weather. I've since put the stock plugs back in for winter.

If your not programming your own computer, a wet kit is probably the way to go. Otherwise, with dry kit and the very precise control the stock computer gives you you'll be able to target appropriate changes exactly where you want them for minimal impact off the bottle and good result on spray, assuming you can program your computer.

I've spent hundreds of hours logging data on and off the bottle. If you don't retard the timing while spraying, the computer will likely do it for you. This ability is actually an excellent benefit of keeping the stock computer system and knock retard programming. There's no question it has saved my engine more than once.

All that said, I wouldn't worry about off bottle performance rather what performance you're losing while spraying with a less than optimized setup.