I broke the Orange spring in the 1-2 accumulator

As the title says I broke it. I was wondering what exactly my tranny would do with the spring broken. It is a 4L60E.

Thanks

Taylor

Your '94 60E has a 700R4 1-2 accumulator set-up. This means the piston goes in the housing first, and then the spring. On later 60E's the spring goes in first and then the piston. Because of this, a broken spring in yours will cause a SOFTER shift. On a later unit, a broken spring will cause a FIRMER shift.

It's exremely common for the orange spring to break on both 700's and 60E's.

If you'd like a real nice 1-2 shift, Get yourself a 1/4-20 set screw...Tap the feed hole, and screw the set screw in the hole. Make sure it's below flush. Put piston and original (unbroken) spring back in, and leave the broken orange spring out...then bolt the assembly on.

Frank
Cahall Performance Transmissions

The spring was on the sepertor plate side of the piston. So you are saying I should plug the feed hole to get firmmer shifts?

Yup...Plugging the feed hole will block the accumulator, resulting in a firmer 1-2 shift.

Frank
CPT

How fast can these springs break? I installed a transgo shift kit and not two weeks later it was soft shifting again. I had the three washers in the housing.

When you did the TG shift kit, did you install the "servo shim" in the 2-4 servo?

Frank
CPT

what is the shim for the 2-4 servo.....is that the one up on the side??

what is the shim for the 2-4 servo.....is that the one up on the side??
Yes....

Frank

Then yea i did, and checked the band movement through the valve body. I just wonder why i use to be able to chirp them real good from 1-2 and now it doesn't at all. then again my overrun clucthces are gone

O/R clutches have nothing to do with the 1-2 shift. Putting the TG kit in has toasted your 2-4 band...

Frank
CPT

Is the orange spring broken that you installed from the Trans-Go Shift kit? or is the accumulator out yet to examine it?

O/R clutches have nothing to do with the 1-2 shift. Putting the TG kit in has toasted your 2-4 band...

Is it probably because it was already on going out anyway on it's own without the kit? I'm just waiting till she goes out, then i'll be in the market for a rebuilt tranny. Either from you or probuilt automatics or rosluer<sp transmissions.....i gues whoever can get me out the door cheaper :D Thanks for the help Frank.

Is it probably because it was already on going out anyway on it's own without the kit? I'm just waiting till she goes out, then i'll be in the market for a rebuilt tranny. Either from you or probuilt automatics or rosluer<sp transmissions.....i gues whoever can get me out the door cheaper :D Thanks for the help Frank.

It's not a real good idea to go by price alone. Take a look at the quality of parts that are going into the transmission. Also, look at the build quality. I've seen many builders take alot of good parts and make a mess out of them. Some transmission builders take a stock transmission, and throw a shift kit in it and call it a racing transmission.
Consider what clutches/steels/bands are used. Raybestos blue clutches and kolene coated steels are the best available. Most builders don't use them because of the price.

Consider rather the builder is reusing the the second rate factory "Corvette" servo. A 2nd gear Billet servo is the way to go to help the band last, and the "Super Hold" 4th servo also helps band life. Many builders choose not to use them because they have to buy them, whereas a "Corvette" servo comes factory (They come in all LT1/LS1 F-Bodies). If anyone needs one, I've got a stack of them at the shop...LOL.

Is a "Beast" H/D sun shell included in the rebuild?

Transmission builders are doing it to make money. Most cut corners wherever they can to save themselves money. I don't believe in cutting ANY corners, and I use the best parts and building procedures known. Yes, Carl Rossler builds a hell of a strong 4L60E...BUT!...He doesn't put any better parts in his $3000+ 60E than I do in my $1000 60E. You're simply paying for the Rossler name.

Too bad we can't find a way to have a "Transmission Shootout" so I could finally prove that mine are the best/longest lasting/strongest 60E's built.

Frank
CPT

you are pretty damn confident arent ya frank? :D later

You definately got a point on the price issue. And yes i do not go blinding by price. Like you said i know what it is when they say they use the corvette servo...it means stock, because the corvette with the LT1 didn't get any better tranny than our cars did. I do know that Rossler makes good trannies along with Probuilt makes pretty good ones too, and i hear you make some of the best too. That's why i was saying price is an issue, because like you said your paying for the Rossler name. I hear yours are pretty good from some of the board memebers that have used your transmissions. Not to mention the help you give our board members. That alone says a lot. I also admire how you say it point blank, none of the run around you usally get.

What kindof 2nd servo do you use? I see they make larger ones from like Jet and other places....suppose to incease band life, by creating more contact area. Do you have like a build sheet or something....the parts you replace and parts you upgrade? What kindof prices do you have. Is is $1000 like stated in your other post? Along with a core? Mind you i'm not ready to buy yet, but will be in the near future when she blows out....sooner if i get the NX kit on :D

I found the prices Frank. What are the typical cost of hardparts?? Do you recomend upgrading the pump or planentary?

Let's just say how much for the best you can build :D

You definately got a point on the price issue. And yes i do not go blinding by price. Like you said i know what it is when they say they use the corvette servo...it means stock, because the corvette with the LT1 didn't get any better tranny than our cars did. I do know that Rossler makes good trannies along with Probuilt makes pretty good ones too, and i hear you make some of the best too. That's why i was saying price is an issue, because like you said your paying for the Rossler name. I hear yours are pretty good from some of the board memebers that have used your transmissions. Not to mention the help you give our board members. That alone says a lot. I also admire how you say it point blank, none of the run around you usally get.

What kindof 2nd servo do you use? I see they make larger ones from like Jet and other places....suppose to incease band life, by creating more contact area. Do you have like a build sheet or something....the parts you replace and parts you upgrade? What kindof prices do you have. Is is $1000 like stated in your other post? Along with a core? Mind you i'm not ready to buy yet, but will be in the near future when she blows out....sooner if i get the NX kit on :D

Actually, I believe the servo Jet advertises is a "Corvette" servo. I use Fairbanks billet 1-2 servos, and Sonnax "Super Hold" 4th servos in tandem with an Alto "Wide" Red lined 2-4 band.
The quoted $1000 is with an owner supplied core.
All the modification I make to my "Race" transmissions are listed on my web page listed in my sig.

Frank
CPT

I found the prices Frank. What are the typical cost of hardparts?? Do you recomend upgrading the pump or planentary?

Let's just say how much for the best you can build :D

There's no way to give an exact price on hard parts until the transmission is disassembled. Theoretically, I could put a $200 ceiling on hard parts for a 60E. There is a very good chance there won't be any hard parts, though. A new input sprag, Billet servos, and "Beast" sun shell are already included in my base price.

I like the 65E front support/needle bearing/sun shell assembly in my race transmissions, which is a $150 option.

We do some pump modifications, but if you're referring to the 13 vane rotor, we don't see the need. Early 60E pumps don't benefit from a swap from 10 to 13 vanes. It's more of a "selling ploy" from some builders.

Same goes with 5 pinion 4L65E planetaries. It's more common for the bearing under the pinions, for the sun gear, to fail than the planetary pinions themself. 60E and 65E planetaries have that same bearing. We have 4 pinion planetaries living perfectly fine in mid 10 second cars. A 5 pinion planetary is also substantially heavier than a 4 pinion planetary.

THE BEST I can build? Let's just say THE BEST that anyone can build... :) $1150 + hard parts. So, the most it could cost is $1350 if you supply the core

Frank
CPT

I hear yours are pretty good from some of the board memebers that have used your transmissions. Not to mention the help you give our board members. That alone says a lot. I also admire how you say it point blank, none of the run around you usally get.



I help because I hate seeing people get ripped off. See, I'm a racer, too. I know what it's like to build these things. I don't mind helping with the more simple problems that someone might be able to fix themselves.

I say it point blank because I know my capabilities. My list of satisfied customers back up my confidence. My customers get transmissions built with the exact same parts and build quality that I put in my own transmissions.
I don't claim my car's the quickest...I don't claim I'm the best looking guy on earth..I don't claim I'm the richest man on earth...I don't claim to be the best at anything else...BUT...I do claim to be the best 700/4L60E builder you'll find.

Frank
CPT

[QUOTE=12SCNDZ]I like the 65E front support/needle bearing/sun shell assembly in my race transmissions, which is a $150 option.


Is the new GM sunshell for the 465E heavier than the earlier 700R4 version?
Thanks.

A little havier. Still not as nice as "The Beast", but they're not making them for the 65E set up yet. The 65E uses a needle bearing between the front support and the shell, instead of a wear prone thrust washer that the 700/early 60E does. I say "early" because late 60E's already have the needle bearing supports.

Frank
CPT

There is another shell advertised on ebay [NOT THE BEAST] with a roller bearing to replace the the plastic thrust washer & a "stronger" low roller clutch inner race. It is also supposed to be lighter as it is only reinforced in the spline area. Is this any better than the BEAST?
Thanks

THE BEST I can build? Let's just say THE BEST that anyone can build... $1150 + hard parts. So, the most it could cost is $1350 if you supply the core

That's an awesome deal......you'll be hearing from me in the future when i need a tranny--this one is on it's way out.

I have seen this thread around for a few days now and never read it because I thought it was just about the TG shiftkit... Now that I read it I must back Frank up!
I help because I hate seeing people get ripped off. See, I'm a racer, too. I know what it's like to build these things. I don't mind helping with the more simple problems that someone might be able to fix themselves.

I say it point blank because I know my capabilities. My list of satisfied customers back up my confidence. My customers get transmissions built with the exact same parts and build quality that I put in my own transmissions.
I don't claim my car's the quickest...I don't claim I'm the best looking guy on earth..I don't claim I'm the richest man on earth...I don't claim to be the best at anything else...BUT...I do claim to be the best 700/4L60E builder you'll find.

Frank
CPT
He is definitly not a good looking guy!!!!! You can see his pic from different times he has been in GMHTP, scary! :p

But seriously, Frank is a very helpful, damn good builder, and he stands behind his work! Just don't try to hook him up with your sister, she will kill you! :D J/K...


***EDIT*** I found a link to him in GMHTP (http://www.geocities.com/max_wylde/PROFILE_EDIT.jpg) , my point exactly!!! Just messing around, I guess I am in a silly mood, lets blame it on all this cold medication I am on right now!

Wow, Frank i've looked at you 100 times....never knew that was you. I loved that article.....I'm still hoping for 12's myself. I just don't know why it dies up top.

LOL...Actually, John P's car is more impressive than mine. Yes, I went 12.82 with a bone stock motored car with exhaust manifolds, but John P. has went 13.2 with a bone stock motored car with manifolds and 2.73 gears! I went 12's with 4.10's.

The meet at E-Town for the bolt-on LT1's was alot of fun. We had really nasty weather that day (90+ degrees with major humidity, and a bad headwind). Even with all that, the Z still ran a 13.19 with a 92,000 mile untouched LT1. GMHTP invited the top 11 applicants from across the country to attend the shootout. The interesting parts is, out of 11 cars from around the country, I built the transmission for 2 of them :) Dirk Harrington was running 11.2's at the time (On spray) with one of my 4L60E's. I think he ran 12.9's at the bolt-on meet (Off spray)

Frank