Going with 17x11 ZR1s with 50mm offset. What "massaging" needs to be done?

This is in a Camaro. I've read through lots of past threads from searches, and decided on going with 17x11 AFS ZR1s all around with a 50mm offset. I'll match them up with 315s in the back and 275s or 285s up front.

From what I've gathered, the rear inner fender wells need to be massaged as well as the fender lip. The good this is, I've already done this to get a 28x10 slick to fit.

In the front, it sounds like the steering knuckle/spindle needs grinding and the plastic liner needs to be trimmed. Am I missing anything?

The main thing is, I want to avoid running spacers at all costs.

Rear:
- If you have stock LCA's, your 315 tires may rub on the u-lip on the exterior of the arms. Either run 1/4" wheel spacers or switch to a tubular LCA to gain clearance.
- If you run the wheel spacers, you may need to roll your fender lip.
- Take a BF hammer and pound in the areas where the mounted tire is closest to the inner fender. This will likely take multiple mount, drive, review, bang attempts.
- Use spray-on undercoating to cover the rubbing areas so it doesn't rust

Front:
- I use a 7/32" wheel spacer and ground off the small hump on the steering arm to run my 315/35/17 tires on 17x11 50mm AFS wheels. It was very close to not hitting the wheel lip at all.
- I also used longer ARP wheel studs because of the spacer. In hindsight, I think I would've been happier with stock length studs but with threads all the way to the end. I can't find any deep-well acorn lugnuts so I'm forced to run open-end lugnuts.

hth,

Jim

Thanks for the info.

I use 50mm offset in the rear with a 1/4" spacer. No problems at all. I've had some minor rubbing against the LCA but I've never felt it or heard it and I'm sure it was under extremely hard cornering.

I would use 1/4" in the front too and then you won't have to worry about grinding anything.

If you use a spacer just make sure it's hub centric. A good spacer is not cheap (I paid $40 each for mine) but well worth it. I did use longer studs in the rear.

If you use a spacer just make sure it's hub centric. A good spacer is not cheap (I paid $40 each for mine) but well worth it. I did use longer studs in the rear.

Where did you find hubcentric spacers for $40? The only ones I've seen are ~$115/pr billet aluminum pieces from Doug Rippie. Also, did you have to pull the axles to put in longer wheel studs?

My spacers are made from billet aluminum. I got them from Fred Goeske at http://wheeladapters.com/

Really nice guy and very nice spacers.

If you only go about 1/4" longer studs you won't have a problema dn won't have to pull the axle. It's tight and you have to wiggle them around a little, they still slide in pretty easy.

OK, I'm going with those spacers. It sounds like those aren't off-the-shelf pieces and are made to order. That being the case, other than the 5x4 3/4 bolt pattern and the 1/4-inch thickness, is there anything else I need to tell him like wheel stud length? Will I need longer front wheel studs if I use a 1/4-inch spacer?

Also, does hubcentric refer to a spacer that bolts on and have integral wheel studs? If so, I hope it's a lot safer than a standard spacer, as I've already broken the stock wheel studs before using them.

I'm trying to picture how hubcentric spacers work. After they're bolted on, wouldn't the stock wheel studs extend past the new mounting flange on the spacers?

I used longer studs, 1/4".

The spacer basically slips on over the existing studs. Hubcentric means that the center portion of the spacer fits over the center "circle" of the wheel hub. Some spacers are very large and can move around, this spacer isn't going anywhere.

You can get the longer studs from summit they'll work fine. You can bang the old studs off w/out having to pull the axles. For the front I use the 1/4 spacer from summit as well but I've got a hub centric ones as well, just haven't gotten around to changing them out. 7/32 spacer you may have to grind the stump...I notice that I didn't and it doesn't rub anything. Some cars just vary for whatever reason. I run 285's on my 11's all 4 corners.

A few final questions. What part of the front fender liner needs to be cut? I'm in the process of routing some -6AN fuel lines in the stock location (front fender well) and want to make sure this doesn't cause any interference problems. The last thing I need is the tires rubbing on the fuel lines.

Also, with a 1/4-inch spacer, is there enough room up front to go with a 13-inch or larger brake set-up?

I haven't cut anything in the front. The only place that's rubbed in the outside of the inner fender near the top of the wheel well. And that was only with my 17x11's. There is a small metal piece right above that point, behind the inner liner. You might want to cut that since you'll be able to get to it real easy.

I'm getting ready to put C5 Z06 brakes on the front of mine next week but no problems with fitting as long as you have a 17" wheel.

Thanks to everyone for all your help.