Spec !!%!$%!

I've had a stage 2 results were never worked right... chattered... never gripped right, and as a result I broke my T-56.... and - $800.00 out my pockets!!! :mad:

Now I've had a stage 3.... Disengages when it wants too... Shifter is hard to move at times... Chattery...and feels like it's slipping... and is making Strange noises now.... once again... the reason my car is acting up and vibrating like crazy... $- 700.00

addition charges -$100.00


I've had it with SPEC!!! They Blow.... Centerforce.. Mcleod here I come... so far $1,600 wasted on fooling around with SPEC! should of did it right the first time!!!

I'm tired of pulling my Tranny!!!!!!! This will make the 6th time... since my first SPEC install.... Screw you SPEC!!! :mad:

I'll also comment that the first clutch they sent me was defective... and they agreed...!!!

:mad: :alert: :mad: :death:

But don't take my word for it... by yourself a SPEC clutch and join in on the rest of us who spent more time a fixin than a rippin down the track.

Sorry about my breif rant... but for more info feel free to use the search option of this site by typing in "SPEC" and finding the many post on these horrible Clutches!!!

i ran a stage 2 for 3k, did just fine, chattered first 500 miles during break in, then worked great...then i replaced my motor, and upgraded to a stage 3, when my rear main leaked on it, they replaced it for free...and its been good ever since...only 4k on it, but running great, and ive pounded it pretty good on 315 drag radials ...JMO, i like em

does it make it when you disengage and hold it put the stage3 in last 2 weeks and it turned out the pilot bearing blew up it makes a rubbing noise its the pilotb bearing...

I've looked at the SPEC ever wixh way up and down, and they gave me nothing but problems... I've gone so afar as replacign the fork, Hydraulics, lflywheel... everything... just throwing money into these defective clutches... Just never seem to work right... I got so frustraited that I paid a shoppe to install the stage 3... and it's still a pain in the ass...

we have a drivetrain forum ;)

WHy am i not surprised? Any more spec bandwagonneer's care to defend this p.o.s clutch?

we have a drivetrain forum ;)
yea that too.. :bow:

Don't know, I've got about 40 passes down the track on DR's and over 13,000 miles on mine. Works just fine. :confused:

I dunno....got 2k on mine so far with some decent abuse and its just fine....so i dunno, maybe im just lucky

Funny... last time when I was praising SPEC everyone who posted was downing the clutch... now I"m downing SPEc... after having problems with 2 of thier clutches... and seems most people are defending them... in my opinion SPEC is a hit or miss manufacturer... you never know what your getting in the box... it may or it may not work... but one thing I can tell you is that 6K miles later.... this clutch blows... and it sucked every step of the way....

I have a Stage3 and I love it! 15K miles in traffic jams, and some track passes with ET Streets! Grabs hard, no chatter! Sorry you're having bad luck with yours. :(

I've had my stage 3 in for about 2 years now and have hit on it with power from nitrous, supercharger, cam, gears etc. Drove through miles of stop and go traffic, drove across the country. Not a single problem.

Sorry to hear about yours however.

I've got a SPEC stage 4 in my car and I love it. It's exactly what I wanted in a clutch. I pulled my Centerforce out to put this one in so if you are considering Centerforce and are running a modified setup you might want to reconsider.

heatmaker.. You are correct on the hit or miss.. 3 of mine in a row we're all misses :(.. But if it was installer error thats fine.. My Street Twin work's just fine ;)

... Great, I'm in the middle of trying to figure out what is wrong with my drivetrain. I just finished installing my SPEC Stage 2 it there is a very harsh, clunky engadgement and the clutch peddle vibrates. I thought I made an install error (have never done this before).. but now I have to wonder... is this the clutch??

I still have my old clutch (which worked fine, except it slipped) but if it comes to it... and maybe this is stupid, but could I bolt back on my old clutch and see if it works fine? That way I KNOW I'm not making an installation error, and it's the SPEC clutch.

What a day ;)

i'm pushing 40,000miles with my stage 2 and the last 3K of those have been with the new heads and cam setup and it holds pretty well to track abuse and clutch dumping on ET streets

sorry too hear about your luck man, just wanted to say that there are good and bad apples in every bunch!

A clutch never lasted my any more than about 15K, regardless of who made it. I have used spec clutches the past few times (stg 3 now), and they all worked fine. You might have some tranny problems, maby something you overlooked. A 6-speed goes through a lot of hell on the street, and not everyone is a skilled driver, even for the ones that are stuff happens. High milage and a combination of other things like: burned oil, and overheated gear clusters (did that), and a cracked gear(s) (hairline, did that). The whole time I drove the car and it felt fine, and shifted fine, except for that slight rattly noise/vibration, replaced the clutch and no change. Had the tranny re-built by Donato eng. and it was smooth as silk (same clutch), untill I broke the output shaft on a hard launch, had to rebuild again this time with the viper output (shouldn't have cheaped out the first time), and again I was handed a perfect tranny. Good luck with your car, and double check your work.

I had origianlly brought a NEw speck clutch and installed it perfectly...

It never dissengaged right, and chattered like hell, and was burning...

I changed out everything clutch related hoping that would fix the problem, but that was not the case... so I removed the clutch and sent it to spec... they inspected the clutch and told me it was defective, and they gave me a new one.

In the mean time the stage 2's dissengaging problems broke my shifter link and I dissasembled the T-56 and ran through all the peices... everything is in immaculate working order... except for the shifter link... My tranny is fine and has not given me any problems...


Now I have a stage 3.... and that clutch much like the first ... has a bit of a dissengaging and chattering problem.... and on certain days it won't dissengage now... untill you make it... You can feel the clutch spinning when the pedal is all the way in sometimes... ever so recently the clutch has now started vibrating the pedal... much like the 1st defefective clutch did... and my car is almost undrivable over 60...

I've given up on Spec... and there's enough complaints and sites about them on here and over the net for me to go other wise. I'm not the first to have a problem with them, and after wasting 1600 I needed elsewhere... (heads)... I'm not giving them the benifit of the doubt when I've gone through 2 spec Clutches in less than a year... both installed by myself.. and professionally by a transmission shoppe where I watched the guy do it to make sure everything went down in sequence. These are just troublesome clutches. O-well... atleast I can get my tranny out in under 2hrs now... and rebuild my own T-56... SPEC= :yuck: I also broke each of these clutches in thouroughly, but the first SPEC reject clutch was so bad it just slipped to hell...

I understand if a company gives you one defect.... but this is rediculious... Ive changed everything down from the Flywheel to the Clutch fork, so the hydraulics... and for a second was about to buy the Mcleod Master cylinder... but I thought .... toss the real problem... "SPEC"

I love my Spec, it's BAR NONE the BEST clutch on the market you can buy for the money...... :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

My SPEC 4 has been in for only 100 miles now but its working wonderfull. I'm really surprised at how smooth it engages for having a solid disc hub. It grabs very strong too, I was expecting some chatter from it from all the stories I've read though. The only way it chatters is if I slowly release the clutch. With a normal clutch release I get next to no chatter. Couldnt be happier with it so far.

*Note: I did have a problem with my clutch fork traveling too far and hitting the pressure plate at first but I dont think that was specs fault since I was using an SLP PP with my resurfaced flywheel and their disc. After fixing that issue its been fine.

I have a buddy that went through two of the SPEC's. They were no help and did not wan't to back the products. He ended up going with a street twin and has never looked back!

I find my stage 2 really harsh and chattery even after 5k miles. Its quite fine if I engage it from about 2K rpm, but that is no way to drive in stop and go traffic or when pulling into the garage at home. Reversing is is almost masochistic. Dayum does that ever shake the **** out of the drivetrain. Not good, in my view. On a positive note, it grabs like mad and doesn't slip, but all things considered, I think I will look for something less harsh when it comes time to replace it.

It's like everything else.. Seems' there are 2 clutches avail for LTx's that do fairly well.. But if you do look at the vast majority of those using spec or mcleod.. YOu'll realize that 1. There isn't too many posts about the Twin that are manuf. defect's or just plain poor workmanship Spec on the other hand or 2 has quite a record of being problematic.. Most don't take into account that the Twin is 800 bux or so.. It comes w/ a 300 dollar Adj. Master, Billet Flywheel, 2 disc's,floater, pp,t/o bearing all for 800.00.. Then you have the spec.. 450ish or so i guess. for just the pp,t/o bearing, and ONE disc.. Then you reuse your stock flywheel.. BUt if you wanted to the billet steel flywheel tack on another 300 bux, now we're upto 750.. And thats just the clutch w/a flywheel.. Clearly the twin is the better buy.. and about as or even better than any Stage that Spec offer's.. I have had 4 Spec Stage III's.. WHen i had them that was their flagship model.. Had it in kevlar, carbon,ceramic and finally told them what i wanted after discussing things w/ a local clutch builder.. THey sent me what i wanted and i sold it.. They tried to blame everything but their clutch.. I have replaced every single time i did the cluthc which was about once every 3-4 wks or so.. the pilot bearing, hydraulic's, even the flywheel twice for which they've resurfaced theirselves'.. this argument is going to continue to go on till the day i die.. IMO.. Mcleod Has the best clutch out there for us hand's down.. oh and you can have it rebuilt for 325.. can't rebuild a spec for 200 bux can ya?

Untill my pedal stops vibrating and the clutch stops rediculously chattering...

:death: SPEC :death:

I haven't hit the 450-500 mile break in yet.. but when I do, the CHATTER better damn well stop, considering I have been told twice now that it WILL.

We'll see... SPEC has a 350 miles to shape up.

I just don't understand how some people can buy RACE parts for their cars, then turn around and gripe and complain that (in their best whiney voice), "my car's too loud" "my transmission jerks me around and shifts too hard" "my hair hurts" Your car is not a Cadillac, and you just took it one step further away from being a NICE daily driver. Get over it. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

You guys are killing me here!!! I was about three minutes away from ordering a Spec stage III... And now I'm so confused! 800+ for the street twin is a great deal... but damn that's a lot of money to spend that could be put to other places. How has everyone done with other clutches like SLP, etc.???????

I just don't understand how some people can buy RACE parts for their cars, then turn around and gripe and complain that (in their best whiney voice), "my car's too loud" "my transmission jerks me around and shifts too hard" "my hair hurts" Your car is not a Cadillac, and you just took it one step further away from being a NICE daily driver. Get over it. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Maybe you need to consider reality then:

Stage 2 is not a race part, stage 3 or 4 maybe.

The newest rocket (Z06) from GM makes just over 400hp just like my car does, but I'd be willing to bet a considerable chunk of change that the clutch doesn't chatter so hard on release that it sounds as if the drive train is breaking. If GM can do it why can't a company that specializes in making clutches do it.

You want to be a SPEC booster go ahead, but don't put down or attmpt to mock others who are justifiably less than thrilled with the product.

You see very few reports of problems with the Street Twin. Frankly, for a setup that will see a lot of abuse it seems well worth the $$$ to me. If you don't need a strong clutch, the stocker with LT4PP seems like a good option.

Rich

Maybe you need to consider reality then:

Frankly, I think it's the other way around.

Stage 2 is not a race part,

So tell me, just WHY would you upgrade the stock clutch for driving on the street?


If GM can do it why can't a company that specializes in making clutches do it.

GM = Millions $$$$ in reserve for R&D

You want to be a SPEC booster go ahead, but don't put down or attmpt to mock others who are justifiably less than thrilled with the product

I'm not a Spec "booster", I only stated I haven't had any issues with mine. And honestly, the complaints don't stick necessarily to Spec is what I'm saying. People complain about their aftermarket parts all the time.

TTYL

I just don't understand how some people can buy RACE parts for their cars, then turn around and gripe and complain that (in their best whiney voice), "my car's too loud" "my transmission jerks me around and shifts too hard" "my hair hurts" Your car is not a Cadillac, and you just took it one step further away from being a NICE daily driver. Get over it. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:


I'm not complaining about the product because it works, I'm complaining about the product becasue it doesn't work, and it's evident in allot of SPEC clutches... I don't know about you but I don't have time or the money to go around throwing hundreds of dollars at a HIT or MISS product. which in my case both have proven to be defective. What good is spending $750.00 on a flywheel, Clutch, and PP that can't even last 6 months on a car? SPEC makes unreliable products and as along as I'm having problems with them I'll stick to that... especially after they themselves noted that thier own product was defective. What goes is a car that can't go over 60 without vibrating to hell, or won't shift into the proper gears, because the clutch won't dissengage?

I should had known better than to buy a SPEC clutch after all the complaints I've read on here... but honestly... I will never put a SPEC product on my Z again.

Actually SPEC advised me to go this route; I originally wanted a stage 1, since I didn't really have big ambitions for power. Also, I believe I was reasonably balanced in my assessment. I said it grabbed hard but also that it chattered hard.

For me it just took quite a bit of getting used to, like a good couple weeks of driving. Now that it's been on the car for over a year I can take off just like a normal clutch would, but anytime I've let someone else try and drive the car, they run into the same problems I did when I first installed it. It's actually kind of funny to watch them. Personally I think of this clutch as almost an extra anti-theft device. Put a newbie in my car that's never driven anything other than a normal clutch in it and see if they can get it to go. :)

I've had mine in since the start of the year. I can get a pretty nice smooth launch if I rev high and release quick. This isn't a problem till I get into stop and go traffic, or I'm pulling into the garage, or I'm backing up; then it turns into a real nuisance, and I beleive it is unnecessarily hard on the drive train. For what it's worth, I'm no novice to using a clutch. I started driving more than 30 years ago and learned to drive stick in a 18 speed dump truck. I can get a smoother start in transport truck pulling 140,000 lbs. Point is, I know how to use clutches. This SPEC 2 is just not a really nice clutch if you use it for day to day driving. I wish it weren't so, but . . .

I was ready to order a Spec 4, but after reading this thread, I am sold on the Street Twin. I still have my original slave cylinder and flywheel on my 95 TA.
My stock flywheel has already been turned twice. I have 120,000 miles on it and my stock slave cylinder.
The Street Twin is the better choice, I will be getting a new adjustable slave cylinder and flywheel. I am currently just past the 500rwhp mark and the last thing I need is to worry about blowing up another clutch.

Where can I get the best price on a Street Twin???

I'am another SPEC hater, the first stage 2 clutch they sent me didn't even work right of the bat!!! I sent it back and they told me the pressure plate was ****ed :mad: so they send me another one. Well that one worked for everyday driving but if it sucked for anything else, it just liked to slip and this was on a pretty much stock car. Hopefully this street twin works out for me, seems like the only clutch that doesn't have a bad rap on these boards.

P.S. any SPEC believers want to buy a used stage 2 clutch with only 3000 miles?

lol's .... I remember how I panicked when My car wouldn't go into Reverse after I installed the SPEC.... Hilarious....


The funniest SPEC post on here was the guy who had just swapped in his SPEC... and immediately put back in the Stocker he took off...after he found out that the SPEC was problematic.

Well boys (and girls), thanks to this thread, I just bid and won a brand new in the box street twin off of ebay! Although there were many arguments here about the integrity of the Spec, I haven't found one bad thing about mcleod, so I bid and won :D

Glad I use this sight, becuase although spending more money was hard on my wallet, I woulda been pretty pissed after spending almost 500 on a chattery clutch. Or maybe everything woulda been fine. I'll let you guys know how happy I am with all of these brand new parts ;)

It's like everything else.. Seems' there are 2 clutches avail for LTx's that do fairly well.. But if you do look at the vast majority of those using spec or mcleod.. YOu'll realize that 1. There isn't too many posts about the Twin that are manuf. defect's or just plain poor workmanship Spec on the other hand or 2 has quite a record of being problematic.. Most don't take into account that the Twin is 800 bux or so.. It comes w/ a 300 dollar Adj. Master, Billet Flywheel, 2 disc's,floater, pp,t/o bearing all for 800.00.. Then you have the spec.. 450ish or so i guess. for just the pp,t/o bearing, and ONE disc.. Then you reuse your stock flywheel.. BUt if you wanted to the billet steel flywheel tack on another 300 bux, now we're upto 750.. And thats just the clutch w/a flywheel.. Clearly the twin is the better buy.. and about as or even better than any Stage that Spec offer's.. I have had 4 Spec Stage III's.. WHen i had them that was their flagship model.. Had it in kevlar, carbon,ceramic and finally told them what i wanted after discussing things w/ a local clutch builder.. THey sent me what i wanted and i sold it.. They tried to blame everything but their clutch.. I have replaced every single time i did the cluthc which was about once every 3-4 wks or so.. the pilot bearing, hydraulic's, even the flywheel twice for which they've resurfaced theirselves'.. this argument is going to continue to go on till the day i die.. IMO.. Mcleod Has the best clutch out there for us hand's down.. oh and you can have it rebuilt for 325.. can't rebuild a spec for 200 bux can ya?

where did u find a street twin for $800?! cheapest ive seen was somethin like $1200 with the steel flywheel

Well Glad to hear some have finally seen the light.. And the other's.. They are some of the lucky one's..

i am another converted spec hater. i had a stage 3 in my car for 2 years with no problems. well the stage 3 was beat after alot of hard driving and about 20,000 miles. so i decided to get a stage 4 with a spec flywheel. so make a long story short ever since i put the stage 4 and flywheel in ive had a bad engine vibration above 3000 rpms. i sent it all back and they said they resurfaced and rebalanced the flywheel and replaced the pressure plate. keep in mind i only had 500 miles on the new setup. anyways i get it back in and its still doing the exact same thing. i swapped in my old flywheel and the vibration is gone completley. ive been playing phone tag with them for 2 days now trying to resolve this. tomorrow i am going to send everything back and demand a refund, then its time to stop screwing around and buy a street twin.

Just a word to the wise.. w/ all these new future street twin owner's.. IF you do not have a 12 bolt/9" i'd be very careful on some sticky tire's.. It will poop your diff. right out the back of that 10 bolt ;)

Just a word to the wise.. w/ all these new future street twin owner's.. IF you do not have a 12 bolt/9" i'd be very careful on some sticky tire's.. It will poop your diff. right out the back of that 10 bolt ;)


But atleast your clutch will remain intact... ;)

Well, the only mod I have so far is Loudmouth... So I'm not too worried about the rear quite yet... But its definitely something to think about when I start adding more horses to the equation...

BTW just to make someone jealous, I got it (the street twin) brand new on ebay for $700 and it should be to my house by early next week I'm hoping! Pretty exciting stuff... Although I wish for sake of the financial burden that it would have held off so that I could have put that 700 toward some headers or something that actually adds more horsepower... Oh well, I'm still excited nonetheless to get rid of this slipping piece of garbage I have now!!!

Well, the only mod I have so far is Loudmouth... So I'm not too worried about the rear quite yet... But its definitely something to think about when I start adding more horses to the equation...

BTW just to make someone jealous, I got it (the street twin) brand new on ebay for $700 and it should be to my house by early next week I'm hoping! Pretty exciting stuff... Although I wish for sake of the financial burden that it would have held off so that I could have put that 700 toward some headers or something that actually adds more horsepower... Oh well, I'm still excited nonetheless to get rid of this slipping piece of garbage I have now!!!
Your not concerned yet.. BUt you will be shortly ;) GOod LUck w/ that clutch.. ITs a bad mama jama..

Well, I have a vette with a ZF trans.

I installed a Spec stage III carbon fiber. At 11,000 mi the faceplate that holds the springs in, cracked. (Im just glad that it dident blow up) While I was making a pass at Milan on Drag radials. I dident notice anything untill I disengaged the clutch at the topend of the track. It sounded like the input shaft bearing went south. (so its not just the Camaro clutch that has problems.)

I spoke to Kgresock and he sang the Street twin praises. All I have to say is WOW! what a great clutch!

By the way I got mine used off of corvetteforum for $275 I sent it to Mcleod for $50 they rebuilt it $300 and returned it $50 for thoese who cant add thats $675 total.

A lot of the negative things I've read about Spec clutches failing seem to involve the 1-3 stages with the sprung center section. Everyone says the springs used on those discs are the same ones Spec uses on their 4 cyl clutches, that can't be a good thing. That's why I went with the stage 4, it has the solid center section and looks very strong. I finally got mine broken in last weekend and did some hard driving with it and it grabs very well. For anyone deciding between the 3 & 4 I would just go with the 4. Hardly any chatter pulling out with it too and I dont have any problem in reverse either. I'm very happy with it so far. I'm taking it to Maple Grove for the first 'real' test of it this Saturday, can't wait :)

Well, I have a vette with a ZF trans.

I installed a Spec stage III carbon fiber. At 11,000 mi the faceplate that holds the springs in, cracked. (Im just glad that it dident blow up) While I was making a pass at Milan on Drag radials. I dident notice anything untill I disengaged the clutch at the topend of the track. It sounded like the input shaft bearing went south. (so its not just the Camaro clutch that has problems.)

I spoke to Kgresock and he sang the Street twin praises. All I have to say is WOW! what a great clutch!

By the way I got mine used off of corvetteforum for $275 I sent it to Mcleod for $50 they rebuilt it $300 and returned it $50 for thoese who cant add thats $675 total.
WOW is a understatement.. ;) Glad to hear it worked out for you as well.. I've been happy w/ mine since day one..

I don't see how the clutch not disengaging has to do with the clutch? Sure maybe the center section glues itself ontop the input shaft, but it would still disengage if your fork is pushing on the pressure plate, if you think that its Spec's fault that the pressure plate won't release, I have news, the pressure plate is a LT4 GM style not made by Spec, only the disk is made by spec. I have mine setup to disengage late by putting a spacer between the flywheel and the engine that spec sells, I do have to say that the clutch is a bit rough for daily driving but its fun if you like a hard engaging clutch, when you shift at WOT it engages like a MOFO and car goes sideways into 4th a bit, very nice tight grip. I hope you realize that doing these clutch swaps it is recommended to upgrade either the master or slave cylinder to the Mcleod one, the pressure plate on the Mcleod and Spec are both just GM LT4 pressure plates, if you have problems disengaging and your fork isn't shot, pressure plate is fine then I would look at the master/salve cylinder, this is why Mcleod sells their clutch with a billet master cylinder, because the LT4 pressure plates included are much stiffer compared to the LT1 pressure plate and if your stock parts aren't great, there may be problems disengaging the clutch as the slave has to have enough juice to pull on that stiff pressure plate you get.

I notice that if I'm parking the car and its taking a while into a tight space, that I get a weird noise comming from the pedal like a buzz when the clutch pedal is being released slowly, this is only if I'm taking time to park and don't get it within a few tries, sounds like maybe the master cylinder is making the noise because its taking a while to park and maybe the master is finally starting to leak or something, I might need to replace it with the Mcleod. Again, this is only if I keep going back and forth trying to park the car and giving the clutch pedal a hell of a time going in and out.

Matt.

I don't see how the clutch not disengaging has to do with the clutch? Sure maybe the center section glues itself ontop the input shaft, but it would still disengage if your fork is pushing on the pressure plate, if you think that its Spec's fault that the pressure plate won't release, I have news, the pressure plate is a LT4 GM style not made by Spec, only the disk is made by spec. I have mine setup to disengage late by putting a spacer between the flywheel and the engine that spec sells, I do have to say that the clutch is a bit rough for daily driving but its fun if you like a hard engaging clutch, when you shift at WOT it engages like a MOFO and car goes sideways into 4th a bit, very nice tight grip. I hope you realize that doing these clutch swaps it is recommended to upgrade either the master or slave cylinder to the Mcleod one, the pressure plate on the Mcleod and Spec are both just GM LT4 pressure plates, if you have problems disengaging and your fork isn't shot, pressure plate is fine then I would look at the master/salve cylinder, this is why Mcleod sells their clutch with a billet master cylinder, because the LT4 pressure plates included are much stiffer compared to the LT1 pressure plate and if your stock parts aren't great, there may be problems disengaging the clutch as the slave has to have enough juice to pull on that stiff pressure plate you get.

I notice that if I'm parking the car and its taking a while into a tight space, that I get a weird noise comming from the pedal like a buzz when the clutch pedal is being released slowly, this is only if I'm taking time to park and don't get it within a few tries, sounds like maybe the master cylinder is making the noise because its taking a while to park and maybe the master is finally starting to leak or something, I might need to replace it with the Mcleod. Again, this is only if I keep going back and forth trying to park the car and giving the clutch pedal a hell of a time going in and out.

Matt.


It's good that you feel that way....

but with a new fork, and hydrosystem.. the clutch never dissengaged...it has EVERYTHING!!! to do with the clutch... the PP is a part of the clutch...and for the most part SPEC modifies thier PP... THier not just painted blue. I believe Bfranker did measurements When on SPEC vs stock clutch hight... Spec measurements were different. When SPEC took my clutch atleast they noted the PP was faulty. And I used the stock turned FW and a new one... same issues... I don't think it's necessary to spend 250 on a 500 dolalr clutch already to get it to work right.... $750.00 for a stg2 setup... might a well as get the ST.

Nah, I don't believe it. I'll try and find the pics, but I looked both pressure plates over (stock and Spec) and they were identical, right down to the part #.

find the pics if you stil have them around...

When I kept hounding SPEC/STAr on the phone I was told the clutches are modified for a "feather weight" feel.

anyhow
my SPEC days are over...I still get worked up thinking about them... THe winning combo that I did get to work was the SLP pp and thier clutch...