Frame off Restoration on my Third Gen - Need serrious suggestions

Well, the time has come to do a frame off restoration on my 86 Z28. Since I am dropping in a 650+ HP engine, I need traction and stopping power.

First off, Traction. Here is what I think will give me a good hook up.

Adjustable Panhard - Spohn
Subframe connectors - Spohn Weld on
Springs - Eibach
Shocks - KYB

Brakes....

I would like to go with a 4 disk Baer system. Want Cross drilled and slotted. This would include a new master cylinder and stainless lines.

I really need some serrious suggestions because I have not really done any work with my Third Gen and Traction/Suspension/Brakes.

Put it this way, If you had lots of $$$, what would you get done??

Nick

good luck with that frame off idea...since we have no frame on our cars it may take you a while to get it apart....


i did the baer brake spohns lca's with relocation brackets (get in way of brakes require cutting of reloc bracket) adjustable panhard, adjustable tourque arm, eibach springs koni red shocks n struts, poly mounts, you need sfc's no doubt with that engine....new ball joints and tierods since i was there, new sway bar links since i cut em to get em off, and 17" tires with boyd rims.

Jeff

for the unibody i would get.

spohn sfc's
and then alston sfc's also.
maybe even a roll bar.
dont want a bent body..

suspension

aftermarket torque arm, panhard bar, lower controled arms, moser 12 bolt, slicks, drag shocks and struts, eibach pro kit, rear air bags for launching hard.

brakes

i would probably do the same or maybe just c5 fronts, with good pads and rotors in the rear with 1989+ pbr calipers.

transmission

built 700r4 with a decent stall with lockup.

driveshaft most likely a nice light steel one or something equally better.

Well, the time has come to do a frame off restoration on my 86 Z28. Since I am dropping in a 650+ HP engine, I need traction and stopping power.

First off, Traction. Here is what I think will give me a good hook up.

Adjustable Panhard - Spohn
Subframe connectors - Spohn Weld on
Springs - Eibach
Shocks - KYB

Brakes....

I would like to go with a 4 disk Baer system. Want Cross drilled and slotted. This would include a new master cylinder and stainless lines.

I really need some serrious suggestions because I have not really done any work with my Third Gen and Traction/Suspension/Brakes.

Put it this way, If you had lots of $$$, what would you get done??

Nick

Adjustable Pan bar from spohn good idea that's what I am running
spohn weld on's good , also what I am running
Springs.. I think I am going to go with Hypercoils... http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=376
Shocks.. I like my KYB AGX's along with the progressive spring rates from Hypercoil I can make good Daily Driver, but turn the fronts all the way up for very stiff and the rears alittle squishy and drag time..
Spohn - relocation brackets and LCA's
Baer makes good stuff, I would also look at SSBC http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/search/
I would only get the slotted rotors.. Cross drilled rotors tend to crack from the outer edge hole tot he outer edge...
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/calipers.htm

Almost forgot, you were talking about tie rods and other things.. Get Polygraphite bushings and everything.. much more durable then polyurethane,plus the grapite reduces squeaks.. Performance Suspension Technologies makes great super front end kits and rear kits and then they sell all parts seperatly..

http://www.p-s-t.com/

Here is what I narrowed it down to.

1) Spohn subframe connectors - weld on
2) Spohn Adjustable panhard
3) SLP lower control arms (Do i need relocation brackets for these?)
4) SLP Heavy duty adjustable torque arm
5) KYB adjustable gas shocks (think they may be discontinued though)
6) Hotchkiss Front and rear sway bar with new bushings
7) Hothkiss springs - lowering car 1 1/4 inch front 1 inch rear (Running full length headers and true duel exhaust.

8) Baer Slotted 4 wheel disc brake system. This includes calipers, rotors, brake lines. I will need a new master cylinder though.

what do you all think?

Nick

Almost forgot, you were talking about tie rods and other things.. Get Polygraphite bushings and everything.. much more durable then polyurethane,plus the grapite reduces squeaks.. Performance Suspension Technologies makes great super front end kits and rear kits and then they sell all parts seperatly..

http://www.p-s-t.com/

Yeh, I have heard amazing things about PST. I will be looking into them too.

Thanks

Nick

Do you not like spohn's tubular adjustable poly sperical rod end Lca's?
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1294
Or their new adjustable torque arm that has it's own crossmember?
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1300
KYB AGX free shipping!!! Same price as everywhere else but free shipping!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33590&item=7923481605&rd=1
P S T will sell you the polygraphite bushings with both the G-max sway bar kitand the hotchkiss kit..
www.p-s-t.com/gm/gmsway.html#CHEV
The G-max sway bar kit the front diam is 1.25 and rear 1.00
The Hotchkiss sway bar kit's front diam is 1.44 and the rear is only .88
P-S-T sells the hotckiss kit front and rear for 499.99 they sell the G-max front and rear kit for 338.00 That's with polygraphite bushings in each kit polygrapite links and mounting hardware in both kits(hotchkiss and g-max)
The G-max are black powdercoated and it appears that the g-max are zince coated
P-S-T also sells hotchkis springs but there only 1" drop front and 1" drop rear.. didn't see anything about 1.25 drop in front and 1 in the rear..
http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/EDCstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=1903
If you like Hotchkis buy direct their only 225..
I'm gonna get some hypercoils there springs rates are alittle higher and they drop 1.25 all around..
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=376
Their 299 though...

Slotted rotors seem much better than cross drilled after reading that one website.. I could see how they could crack givin those holes are so close to the edge.. Do you have 4 wheel disc now? If not then I would say that you don't really need a new master cylinder just a proportioning valve, unless you want to get an electric master cylinder or a smaller one, then I would get a new one..