Procharger setup with front mount

Here is the P600 on my car with a front mount setup that I made. All hard tubing except for an elbow on the intake side of the blower and hump hoses at all connections. Just wondering what you guys think of it all. Should be nice when I get it up and running.

Still have not completely finished the install since I found out yesterday that my center crank bolt is broken off. I will see what I can do to possibly extract it or drill it out and heli-coil the crank.

If neither work out, I do not plan to take motor out just for a new crank engine setup only has about 15K on it. So it is currently posted for sale on a few sites if there is interest. Complete blower with kit and frount mount-$1900

http://12.217.21.69/MFBA/LJ93Z28GM/

Looks good. That intercooler is pretty big. Too bad the grille opening is so small. Luckily, my grille was about the same heighth as the intercooler.

Why is the pipe coming up on the pass. side? Are most front mount 4th gens that way? Also, which intercooler is that? Mine is half that size.

I like it,
Excellent work ;)

Slim,
it's a custom intercooler and the battery must have been relocated so he went with a straight through design, most intercoolers have the inlet / outlet on the same side like my 3 core ATI interooler

www.geocities.com/marc94z/intercooler.html

Marc

Looks like one of those OBX intercoolers everybody is jumping on. I think 4 people over on LS1tech have recently purchased one and have made front mounts out of them. I have yet to see any info on them as far as flow#'s but it looks like they know something i dont . :confused:

I decided to get an intercooler with outlets as such since it is much harder to work on anything with all the pipes on one side. I just have to disconnect mine at the hump hoses and it is all out of the way so i can work on the car.

Also decided to change the radiator to a straight up and down mounting point to add additional room to work on the car.

I decided to get an intercooler with outlets as such since it is much harder to work on anything with all the pipes on one side. I just have to disconnect mine at the hump hoses and it is all out of the way so i can work on the car.

Also decided to change the radiator to a straight up and down mounting point to add additional room to work on the car.

I noticed your custom braces you fabbed up for the radiator, nice work there also ;)

Do you have any pics of the bottom so we can see what you did to change up how you drop the radiator into the cradle?

Also what are the dimensions of the radiator?

What about fans, what did you use there.

I've been mulling over doing something similar.

Marc

Slim,
it's a custom intercooler and the battery must have been relocated so he went with a straight through design, most intercoolers have the inlet / outlet on the same side like my 3 core ATI interooler

Are the intercoolers with a straight through design better? If I uprade intercoolers I will consider changing if it is. Thanks.

It depends there is a debate on how they are setup. Here is what is typically said.

If you look at the ATI units, air flows in and then travels across the bar and fin for the distance of 6inches which means the air will not loose its velocity but it will not be cooled as much.

The unit in my car flows across 24" of bar and fin before it leave the intercooler. So it might loose some velocity but the IAT tems will be lower.

I tried to contact ATI and ask them how much CFM is actually needed per pound of boost or if there is any formula or chart that the go by and they had not answers.

There are alot of imports that run long intercoolers and still seem to get them to flow just fine. Also if you look at or talk to spearco, griffin or bell they will state their numbers based on their sizes. Bell has a very nice site for flow numbers. If I knew how much cfm is actually being pulled in by the engine at X amount of boost you could figure out your minimum needs for your intercooler.

I will only be pushing 8 pounds so I really do not see it being a concern. Units core is 24 wide 12 tall and 3 inch thick with 3nch in/out.

The radiator is 16 tall by 27 wide. It has two 1" rows inside. The bracing there is only preliminary since I am still deciding on how it will go when I put the fan in place.

Both factory fans are too large for the core size of the radiator so I am going to mount one on it and see how my temps are before I go and purchase a Dual 10" fan setup. The new radiator is thicker but it is 3 inches shorter. My temps were always at the 1/4 mark so we will just see what happens. Should have it out and around tomorrow. As for where the radiator sits, it is in the stock location, it still does not sit perfectly straight up and down but it is close. Gained over 2"s of space. Made up some rubber pads to craddle the bottom like a saddle.

Where's your MAF?

Car is a 93 which is speed density, no maf

what kind of tuning or program do you have are you using a boost retard controller

nice set up I wasthinking about the same thing, another question for you what for brake valve did you use to get rid of the ABS I really want to get that box out of my way to save room and weight.

I just used the summit, adjustable proportionating valve, $40 and a tee along with some 3/16 fittings and it was all good.

what did you do run the front direct off the T and the rear off the valve? I just ordered the wilwood one. if you got any pics of that that would be great to. thanks for the help.

Save the two fittings that go into the master. Those are hard to come by.

Decide where you want to mount the new valve. Run the rear line to the valve, you just use standard 3/16 fittings at the valve, up by the master use the ones you saved.

As for the front decide where you want to tee them together and then run the line to the master.

Really not to hard. Just takes time to make it look good.

Just to let you guys know. My new radiator with one stock fan running keeps the temps at 1/4 on the gauge. No changes at all even if I beat on it. It is pretty hot out here too currently in chicago suburbs, stop and go traffic no problem.

I even ran it for a bit without the fan on to see how much better the radiator is and it would range between 1/4 at idle and 1/2 on the gauge when cruising below 30 but start dropping as the speeds picked up.

Wish I took some pics on the install a bit more but it is a griffin radiator the cheaper one 189 dollars, 2 one inch rows of tube. Dimensions are 16 x 27, it sits almost vertically in the car. Two trans cooler mounted on the front of the radiator probably cover a good 60% over the front and one stock fan cooling the setup. Works great and a ton more room.

Can you repost the link to the pics? I'm contemplating a FMIC.

-B

procharger setup was sold. I do not believe I have any pics still let me search around to see if I do.

Here's some pics of a Vortech T-trim that I installed along with a OBX FMIC and custom piping on a 02 T/A with a 386 cu.in. built engine. http://community.webshots.com/album/219621324aXHyiv

car is currently pushing ~610HP to the wheels but that's gonna change after a new set of headers and a cutout go in :D The headers on there right now (that the customer had before the build) are like 1-3/8" primaries and are choking the engine!

procharger setup was sold. I do not believe I have any pics still let me search around to see if I do.

Thanks LJ!!!!!

-B

I think I would have opted for the intercooler with the inlet/outlet on the same side for that bird. You could have cut off 5 ft of tubing. It looks good though. What kind of rims are on the car? :)