Live for TAs
09-15-2004, 08:17 PM
I need to replace the 8# pulley on blower with a 12# unit. Anyone done this? Any tips? I don't feel like pulling the radiator etc. if I can avoid it! I tried putting tension on the tensioner (I have a spring loaded unit) while loosening the blower pulley bolt and got nowhere.
Any other suggestions welcome.
EDS Z28
09-15-2004, 08:49 PM
You need to remove the blower unit from the engine first of all. An impact wrench may be necessary to remove the blower pulley bolt. Most people heat up the pulley near the shaft for a few minutes and it should come right off due to the different coefficient of expansion for aluminum and steel.
The driver side fan shroud will have to be trimmed. That is about it. You do not have to remove the radiator to do this.
Ed
SC97TA
09-15-2004, 09:24 PM
I did mine without pulling the head unit. I used a strap wrench (local tool shop should carry them cheap less $10) to hold the pulley a little muscle and the bolt came off. As for the pulley I pried it off slowly...alternating 180 deg. probably around twenty small movements before mine easily came off. I only pulled the fan shroud it needed clearancing anyway. Mark the shroud before you pull the old pulley.
Kris
secretjade
09-16-2004, 05:55 AM
I took out the fan then with a propane tourch heateed it up while turning the pulley and with a puller it came off pretty easy. Without heating it up it was impossible. I did it still mounted. I would be cautious trying to pry it of. I heard you can damage the internals putting to much pressure on the shaft.
Live for TAs
09-16-2004, 06:20 AM
Thanks for the advice... SC97TA- sweet car! I have pretty much the same internals, hope my head gaskets hold up (I'm using the LTCC ignition setup), I'd hate to have to go right back in & fix something that major.
As for the fans, I've replaced the stockers with dual 12" Perma-Cool fans (http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/256387/8), so clearance is not an issue.
Live for TAs
09-18-2004, 01:36 PM
I got it pulled off this morning- couldn't find a strap wrench big enough for a 3.25" pulley, so rednecked it w/ a 24" pipe wrench :) .
As for the pulley I pried it off slowly...alternating 180 deg. probably around twenty small movements before mine easily came off.
This worked for me also!
I pulled the driver side fan and the pulley came out OK.
I put the 12 rib blower pulley in place but I think it will be too tight a fit, so I'm going to buy an 8 rib / 12# setup from one of our supporting vendors.
SC97TA
09-18-2004, 08:45 PM
Thanks for the advice... SC97TA- sweet car! I have pretty much the same internals, hope my head gaskets hold up (I'm using the LTCC ignition setup), I'd hate to have to go right back in & fix something that major.
Thanks...it just seems to be a viscous cycle with me mod, break, and fix hehe.
What's in the way of the pulley it looks like you would have lots of room with your new fan setup?
Kris
Live for TAs
09-18-2004, 09:31 PM
I found that with this project everything seems to be in the way :mad: . I think the main thing was when I mounted the P600B, I had to shim it out about 1/2" to get the blower pulley in line with the crank pulley (I'm using a Fluidamper, and maybe this is thicker than the stock balancer?). The setup I bought supposedly came off an LT1 F body.
I did put the 12 rib on and it clears, but it is closer than I care to have it to the driver side fan, which I found today was rubbing the radiator (only on th edriver side), so it will need to be shimmed out another 1/8" or so.
I've ordered the complete 8 rib setup and hope it does the trick.
SC97TA
09-18-2004, 11:49 PM
I have heard that with the Fluidamper you have to get the aluminum hub for the crank pulley machined down so the pullies will line up. I do not recall how much it cost but I think it was pretty cheap. But if you shim head head unit bracket I guess that gets the job done too.
Kris