Local Guys Help Me out..

Hey Guys. Im re-posting this here becuase local guys seem to help out a little more than guys from Montana of something. I figure it will be cheaper to get parts locally thant to get if from the dude in montana.

Here is the list for my heads/cam and drivetrain upgrade. Im posting this list soo if you guys that have expierence on this can help me locate other parts I will need. Im on a limited budget and need to plan this thing to within $500 of my $8000 limit. I have a few questions at the bottom that I need help with. Thanks, Brian Kaiser.

#1) Lloyd elliot LE3 head job with BIG custom cam. NEW. $1800 Shipped
#2) Moser 12 bolt or 9 inch rear. Used for $1700 shipped
#3) New spec stage 4 clutch. NEW. $600 shipped
#4) Stronger Driveshaft. Used. $180 shipped
#5) Driveshaft Loop. Used $75 shipped
#6) Long Tube Hedders. Used coated. $275 shipped
#7) Fuel Pump. Used. $140 shipped
#8)#30 injectors. NEW. $125 shipped
#9) Sub-Frame Connectors. NEW. $150 shipped
#10) Electric Cutout. Used. $100 shipped
#11) Hardened Pushrods. NEW. $75 shipped
#12) Crane 1.6 RR's with 7/8 studs. New. $210 shipped

Please let me know if im getting shafted on any of the prices

NOW FOR THE QUESTIONS
What will be the difference in 6th gear going from stock rear end to a 9 inch with 4.11's? How much will the RPM change at 70 MPH in 6th?

Should my T-56 ok if it isnt beaten to death when I drive it?

Do I need to replace my torque arm or will it be ok? How about my LCA'S?

What will the Driveshaft Fitment be like going from a stronger stock legnth on a stock rear end to a 9 inch or 12 bolt?

How much will exhaust work be to make a y-pipe from my new LT's and integrate an e-cutout into it? Would it be cheaper to supply a y-pipe or have them fab one up with the cutout?

Will the #30 injectors be enough for 450+ rwhp?

What would a DYNO tune cost after I do all these mods if I already have her tuned for my current setup?

Would I need O2 extensions or SIMS for my LT's?

This is just the beginning of the planning of my build up, soo many more questions will be asked. I truely appreciate any help you guys can offer. Thanks a bunch, Brian Kaiser.
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Brian Kaiser, 94' z-28 white (t-tops) M6 with 383 , fully balanced, new tranny, 97,000 miles. 5-angle valve job and light port work, K&N filtercharger,PACESETTER performance shorty headers with catless 3-inch system , Hot Cam Kit , new factory white paintjob, charcoal interior.

70MPH in 6th w/4.11's ~1916RPM
70MPH in 6th w/3.42's ~1580RPM

Have you made an internal upgrades to the T56? I don't see any reason for it to implode if it's in good shape now and you're not beating on the shifter. Plenty of folks are successfully using the T56 in 400-600rwhp F-bodies.

TA & LCA's... how will you be using the car? If you're concerned about the T56, it sounds like you're not going to be driving it very hard :confused: IMO you can wait on these. IF you can afford it, and since you'll be in the area, you might as well do them now.

O2 Sim's are for the rear O2's. If you can disable them through the PCM you shouldn't need them.

You will more than likely need O2 extensions for the front O2's.

For tuning, go back to the same place that already tuned it, they may offer discounts for being a previous customer. New customers usually pay $350-$500 for a dyno tune.

$0.02

First of all.... I got my Walbro HPHV 255LPH brand new shipped to my door for $116.64 so get a different fuel pump and save your self some money.


Secondly.... if you want to save a little more I'll sell you my 28.8lb injectors for $100.

Oh yeah.... the stock 24lb injectors are good for 450HP, so the 30lbers are more than enough.

It takes .5 pounds of fuel for 1 HP. 8 injectors x #30 equals #240. That should be good for roughly 480 HP tuned conservatively. More if you lean it out.

The factory torque arm has too much flex. If you plan on launching hard, replace it.

Off the shelf Y pipes rarely fit well, the best one's I've seen are fabbed on the car. ;)

You only need 02 sims if you delete the cats.