Progressive Controller with one big shot or 2 smaller shots on a dual stage system? ?

OK heres the deal, I want to spray a pretty large amount of N20 ( 200-300 rwhp )

My car runs on 315/35/17 Drag radials and my car is a daily driver which means I do not want to put slicks on the car. I have the engine that can handle the spray, the tranny and rear can take it as well.

But I am concerened about traction. Does anyone have any thoughts on how I should do this?

Option #1 Get a large single stage system on a progressive controller

Option #2 get a dual stage system and come out on 1 stage then in 2nd add the 2nd stage ( wouldnt this actually be slower than option 1 ? )

I hear all this stuff about the solenoids life being shortened with a progressive unit, but I can just rebuild them right ?

Someone else told me progressive units are worthless and dont hardly do anything to help with traction

P.S. my traction mods are Spohn adjustable torque arm, spohn rear drag sway bar, spohn rear LCA's, Spohn Subfram connectors, Nitto Drag radials 315/35/17

Any input will be greatly appreciated

OK heres the deal, I want to spray a pretty large amount of N20 ( 200-300 rwhp )

My car runs on 315/35/17 Drag radials and my car is a daily driver which means I do not want to put slicks on the car.
So why not have 2 sets, drags and pizza cutters up front for track and your zr1s for street?

Option #1 Get a large single stage system on a progressive controller
My vote

Option #2 get a dual stage system and come out on 1 stage then in 2nd add the 2nd stage ( wouldnt this actually be slower than option 1 ? )
If you are hard up on cash this is the way to go. its all in how you tune the progressive system on how well it works. an experienced person should be able to run pretty close, but i personally feel the progressive would yeild better results.

I hear all this stuff about the solenoids life being shortened with a progressive unit, but I can just rebuild them right ?
true, and true. some companies require you to send the solenoids in for rebuilds.


Someone else told me progressive units are worthless and dont hardly do anything to help with traction
this someone was dead wrong. as i stated before it all has to do with how you set them up. i wont go so far as to call this person a moron, but they obviously had NO experience with a controller, were bitter about not being able to afford one, or were just not brainy enough to program one.

P.S. my traction mods are Spohn adjustable torque arm, spohn rear drag sway bar, spohn rear LCA's, Spohn Subfram connectors, Nitto Drag radials 315/35/17
this doesnt help much when we have no idea what kind of motor power you are running. do you have problems hooking off the line all motor? what rear gear ratio? more info.

well i have a 383 LT1 with a solid roller cam, Art Carr 4L60E, 3200 stall, 4.11 Moser 12 bolt.

I dont want to go with slicks at all, I hook on just motor at the track and pretty good on the street.

I have the money to buy whichever option I pick, I just do not want to spend all this money and be dissapointed with the results of a progressive controller. I was leaning towards the progressive unit for the sole reason of wanting to run a DRAG RADIAL only.
I dont want to run slicks or drag suspension setup, maybe when the car is no longer my daily driver this will be an option. Thanks for the input.

-TaZ

The progressive controllers are hell on noids so I'd go with a two stage unless you want to be rebuilding them frequently.

as long as you check your noids before you plan on running n2o the controller is the way to go. you can only tweak a staged system so much. with a controller (i would suggest the maximizer) you tune the n2o for each gear. you have control over when the retard kicks in, how far the solenoid opens, how long it takes the solenoid to open, the rpm the noids start to open, what rpm the noids close, what voltage in the tps you want the system to spray (not only WOT, you can do 90 or 95% of the throttle) it does transbrake signal, and had programability for the auto tranny.

there is so much you can tweak to be sure you are getting the most.

I have heard the NX maximizer uses a PDA to program it, is there any way to use my Laptop ?

Also with the Maximizer how does it know what gear I am in ???

And does it have a "memory" function incase i let off the gas then punch it again will it start from where it let off or start the WHOLE progressive program over again ?

And I have a MSD digital 6 ignition, how will the retard function work with the maximizer?

There is no reason to run a dual stage if you can do the maximizer.The maximizer makes it so much simpler than messing with a dual stage.Buy a good system wioth good solenoids such as NX.They are desighned to take the abuse from the Maximizer.I have sold many of these set ups and everyone has loved them.
The maximizer will work with a PDA or Lab top.
It has a ramp speed,time delay,tps switch,window switch,It also monitors o2s for lean conditions.You can tune the ramp to restart after shifts or start were you left off.If you do your math.Add a tps,window switch and a dual stage kit.You will come out around the same price as a system and maximizer.
Dave

well i already have a dry NOS system. It has a high flo valve on the bottle and a 4AN line which should suport up to 400-425 HP. So I dont need to buy a whole system. I like the TNT conversion kit which is a single stage kit for up to 250 RWHP. I looked into the NX maximizer, I dont like the idea of programming with a laptop. I already have a laptop I use to program with LT1_edit and use it for my wideband data logger as well. Another thing I didnt liek about the Maximizer is that if you let off the gas it resets and start the progressive all over again. Then to find out its $665 !! sheesh.

A buddy of mine told me to look into a Schnitz progressive unit, they have one for $500 which has all the features of the maximizer ( except TPS switch, but i dont need one ) and it will remember where it let off if you happen to have to get out of the throttle and back on it again. Also the one thing I actually like the most is its all controlled by knobs and buttons so there is no need to drag my laptop to the track just to change the N20 progressive settings. And god forbid I actually race on the street ( OMG i know, no1 here does that!@!!!) I can easily reach over and turn down the start % for traction.

Thanks for all your input guys

P.S. I heard this whole NX builds it solenoids to handle progressives better was just a marketing ploy. Has anyone actually taken one apart to compare it to another manufacturers solenoid? No accusing, just currious.

the maximizer is easy. if you can do anything in lt1 edit, the maximizer will seem like kindergarden. yes you can use the laptop as long as you have a serial port on the noteboook.

the TPS switch is a GOOD thing to have, WOT swithes can be a pain to install and IMHO are not as good.

the maximizer works off of the tps switch and rpm readings to learn what gear it is. if you let off and it shuts down you can program how long it takes for the system to reset, and also what gear it resets to.

the maximizer is easy. if you can do anything in lt1 edit, the maximizer will seem like kindergarden. yes you can use the laptop as long as you have a serial port on the noteboook.

the TPS switch is a GOOD thing to have, WOT swithes can be a pain to install and IMHO are not as good.

the maximizer works off of the tps switch and rpm readings to learn what gear it is. if you let off and it shuts down you can program how long it takes for the system to reset, and also what gear it resets to.

thanks for the info,

I already have a WOT switch installed
I do NOT want to drag the laptop to teh track to change the progressive settings
WOT switches and TPS switches have the same function, if installed correctly they will provide the same results.
I have decided against the MAximizer for the sole reason that I do not want to use my laptop to change the settings.

Not to come across wrong here but who ever has given you your info is wrong.
The maximaixer can be set to restart after gear shifting or start where you left off.Also there is no other unit on the market anywhere close to this one.FJO builds this unit and they did a really good job.As for the solenoids.No its not an advertisment ploy.We carry,NX,TNT,ZEX and NOS.I have personlly tore down every ones solenoids and I must say I would only run NX or TNT solenoids on my car.You can not get a better solenoid than those.The maximizer sells for 640.00.Yes it is expeinsive but you do get what you are paying for.If you buy the TNT conversion do your self a favor and go ahead and purchase one of there nitrous solenoids also.
Dave

i could swear the conversion kit came with the noids, lines from noids to nozzles, nozzles, the plate, and the throttle linkage spacers.

anyways, i have the maximizer in my car, and those are the settings that are in my program. version 2.01 on the pda if you are interested.

honestly if you are serious about getting the best track times, since you are already looking at spending, why not go buy a $99 dollar palm to take to the track with you? for the difference you are going to see, 99 is a small price to pay.

heres the deal
MAximizer $660
Palm $100
Total $760

Schnitz Progressive unit $500
does not require electronics to use, just the click of 5 knobs.
Has every function the NX Maximizer has except the TPS switch which I dont need and the O2 feedback which I dont need because I use a LM1 wideband unit for tuning and do not run O2's.


So I am not seeing what the advantage is to spend $260 more on the maximizer.


Also the TNT conversion kit comes with the Noids.

LOL, I guess I need to be more observant.I didnt realize that the TNT comes with the N20 Solenoid.The NX one only comes with a fuel solenoid.
I can see why you picked the controller you did.To be honest with you I have never looked at it so I dont know much about that one.I was just trying to clear up some of the info you had been told.Enjoy your new set up.You like it better thatn going dual stage.
Dave

maximizer allows for wide or narrow band o2s