With a Golen short block...

Never hurts to start researching early, so here's my thoughts:

Within the next 2 years I'll be pulling the (now 140k mi) LT1 out of my Camaro and throwing in one of these two short blocks, or at least something very similar to them:

383: http://www.golensengineservice.com/displayEngineSB.cfm?EngineID=117

396: http://www.golensengineservice.com/displayEngineSB.cfm?EngineID=118

It will probably be the bigger of the two, with a decent streetable cam. On top of that, I want to run one helluva nasty N2O system on this bad boy. I'm talking about the works, with all of the safetly percautions as well and the little toys to make it easy to use, as well and completely hidden (if possible). I want people to look under to the hood and see no N2O lines or anything, have everything under the manifold n such. Two big bottles in the trunk and all of the switches in the ashtray.

Now, I know that this is by no means cheap, and I'm willing to piece it together over time so that I have exactly what I want, and I'm not afraid to do custom work so that it truely is hidden.

What kind of system would I be looking at? The bigger the shot, the better, possibly a dual stage fogger system or something of the sort. I'm looking in the 200+hp range without question.

Now, inform me, teach me, flame me, do what you will. Just looking for some friendly pointers and advice. I have plenty of time to get everything straight. Thanks! :)

Yo Ricky,
Sounds like a good plan, but I do have one question. Why do you want two big bottles in the trunk? Why not hidden? It doesn't make sense that you would hide the lines but not the bottle as well.

Rob...You have to remember, I have a convertible. The trunk is completely seperate from the rest of the car...no hatch here! :D

On another note, I was talking to a guy last night that has a lot of experience with N2O, and he recommended a low compression setup, like 8-8.5:1 with 1.5 rockers on the intake and 1.6 rockers on the exhaust due to the amount of spray I'll be using. I'll also need some serious octane fuel, unfortunately.

Comments?

I don't know why he'd recommend a low compression like that unless you also wanted boost on the motor. Nitrous likes higher compression. As for using the different rockers, you can just get a custom grind cam so you won't have to worry about that.

I don't know why he'd recommend a low compression like that unless you also wanted boost on the motor. Nitrous likes higher compression. As for using the different rockers, you can just get a custom grind cam so you won't have to worry about that.


That's true to a point. If one were building a motor to handle extremely large amounts of nitrous (in the 400-500+hp range) than a lower CR would be in order. Otherwise, I am in agreement with your statement.

Rich

The motor will probably only be running a 200-300 hp shot, somewhere in that area.

for the 2-300 shot,i would stay around 10-11:1 IMO<for better n/a responsiveness and times.
If you want under the manifold,NOS has a system,but you arent gonna get a dual stage under the manifold.

All of the nitrous websites seem to be really confusing...does anyone have any specific under the LT1 manifold kits? Links?

well i have a 396 with 13.6:1 compression and a 300 shot the only thing i see wrong with those engines is the rings you need to have them subistuite diffrent rings i went with je hns rings and have the gap larger

note that when you have a large gap in the rings your engine is going to be subject to blow by until the motor warms up and the gap closes. i wouldnt be to found of that. there are a couple of other types of rings that allow for the more ring expansion, but dont open a gap for blow by.

as for your kit, under the manifold is the most hidden IMO, but i was just looking at an impala that used a NOS 58mm tb and you couldnt see anything. so it is possible to hide it in other ways. also, for dual bottles, why? the plumbing is a pain, its expensive, and you dont gain any performance. if you are thinking about how long you can run the system, get to dual bottle mount, put all you lines and acc. on one bottle, and when you run out, switch the bottle over. with good openers running 200+, bottle heaters 200+, and we wont even go into stainless lines. just stick with one.

blow by hurts nothing and just like some people dont like how loose i have my clerence's but loose is fast rember that yeah i usualy pull my motor every 20 k to re bearing and re ring but when your making this kinda power its expected

amean94ta,
If you don't mind me asking, what kind of rwhp are we talking about with your car on the juice? Also what's your best times to date? Sounds like a very interesting car.

i dont know yet i have to meet up with rkrouse up at kenndys dyno tune to get this lt1 edit tuned on the dyno its a very tricky and picky motor i did do a 10.86 coasting to a whopping 89 mph cause the trans did not want to shift lol but i am hoping to run with the big guys taner/joe/harlan so lets say low 9's high 8's the only other measure i can tell you is i had a z06 next to me and within 3-4 sec i had about 10 cars on him going from a roll

blow by is ok if you like smoke when you start the motor. blow by has nothing to do with fast.

your right and wrong blow by by itself does not create power but a healthy motor thats loose will create blow by and since it spins freely makes more hp. less friction=more hp

My 355 is 13.9 : 1 compression and I spray 200~325. Biggest thing is fuel and timing.
C16 on 200 with 24 degrees of timing
VP Nitrous blend on 325 with 19 degrees.

oh and plugs 4 steps colder than stock ;)

I don't see that the implied relationship between blowby and low friction. Properly gapped rings will not exert any more force on the cylinder walls than if the gaps are too large. Gaps that are too large will lead to excessive leakage of cylinder pressure (aka blowby) and loss of poewer. However, if the ring gap is too tight there will be excessive friction and the result can be engine failure if the ring seizes in the bore.

Rich

yeah i am just talking a extra 2-3 thous not gapped wide and a little blow by on first start up not smoking down the road lol. they tell you to gap them wider for n20

Hot Rod Hawk: What are the octane levels on those fuels? And who helped with the tuning?

yeah i am just talking a extra 2-3 thous not gapped wide and a little blow by on first start up not smoking down the road lol. they tell you to gap them wider for n20

I agree, I didn't understand exactly what you meant. What counts is the gap when the motor is under operating conditions, not startup!

VP C16 is 117 motor octane while VP NO2 is 120.3! However, you need to be very careful if you switch from another fuel to NO2. The specific gravity of NO2 is 0.699, ~5% less than most race fuels. If you don't add fuel to compensate, you will be lean which is instant death for a high compression nitrous motor. Both of these fuel have a high lead content and will very quickly mess up O2 sensors or catalytic converters, so they are truly race fuels.

Rich

What's the general plug setup for a shot that big? How much colder?

TTT anyone have an answer about the plugs??

Any more input would be appreciated! Alternate set-ups?? STS turbo or a S/C set-up a better altertnative? :confused:

TIA :)