Gen I SBC vs. BBC in 4th gen.

Well, the teardown on my motor wasn't pretty. Still not sure what the initial failure was, but it needs a complete rebuild. I am thinking that I don't want to build another LT1 and am contemplating a big block Chevy or a Gen I SBC. As with the LT1, the car will be set up as an extremely fast street car that also goes to the track. So, it has to run on pump fuel (though I can get 100 octane unleaded from the pump and am willing to use that on the street).

To acheive my performance goals I had the LT1 set up with a Procharger F1. At the track, I used a small shot of nitrous to make up for the relatively weak low end and the weight of the car (over 4,000lbs with driver). It was capable of nines, but I never made an all out banzai pass because the track management made it clear that if I hit the nines I was history (just a 6-point bar, no cage). It ran 10.22@140+ and I want to go faster (of course). So, I may do a cage if I need to.

What I am thinking is that with a bigger cube motor I could ditch the SC with the attendant packaging/tuning/increased IAT issues. Run it NA on the street and add nitrous and race gas for the track. I already have the drivetrain parts and a mondo fuel system and plan to use EFI, probably an Electromotive TEC3. If I go that route (NA street/N2O track) I am wondering if a small block will make enough HP in the "street" configuration? I need in the 650hp range to get the street performance I want. And it seems to me that if I go small block, I will need the 'charger for that. OTOH, I already have the Procharger and a small block will package easier and be ~150lbs lighter. An aluminum BBC is out due to the very high cost.

So, I am looking for input on the issue of the two configurations for a 4th gen: a Gen I SBC with Procharger (and small nitrous shot if needed) vs. a BBC NA for the street and with nitrous for the track.

Any input will be welcome. Cost is always an issue, but a couple of $K either way will not be the deciding factor.

Rich

I havent even gotten my turbo motor in, and I'm already piecing together my all aluminum BBC. I like the BBC idea, just cause its unique, and you can make BIG BIG power NA, then just throw a DP n20 setup on it and hell you could easily hit 8's IMO.

P

You can make 650hp with a large small block and it's not that difficult to do. I've been over the costs of building both... lots of scribbling, $ signs and stuff numerous times. The conclusions I've come to are these... building a big small block vs building a 540-598ci big block aren't that far apart.

By the time I get my small block short block put together I've got ~$5k in it. I can put a 572 or 598 BBC together (short block) for about the same price. The heads for the big block are going to be a bit pricier... but that price is about equal if you're looking to use a SBC race head.

Granted, a 572-598 BBC making 700hp is going to be a mild engine with great street manners. The smaller cube SBC is not going to be too "race" but at the 650hp level... it's a "hot street engine". The better the cylinder head, the milder the camshaft can be and make great power. A 434 SBC will swallow a 255 @.050 cam real nice like and you get down to something with 10º less duration and it gets real mild. Can still go 625-650 with something like that and a great head though.

Personally, I'd take the weight break. But you can't deny the potential of the BBC. It (572-598ci) could go 750hp and still be very streetable.

-Mindgame

What's the story on the blowup Rich?

Are you looking for it to handle well? I remember a while ago a discussion about possibly autocrossing your car or something to that effect. If super-great handling isn't a concern, just throw the BBC in a be done with it. I can imagine the maintenance would be much less for a BBC at 750hp than a small block with less than that.

What's the story on the blowup Rich?

It was more of a "meltdown" than a "blowup". Lost oil pressure and I am still not sure why??

Rich

Are you looking for it to handle well? I remember a while ago a discussion about possibly autocrossing your car or something to that effect. If super-great handling isn't a concern, just throw the BBC in a be done with it. I can imagine the maintenance would be much less for a BBC at 750hp than a small block with less than that.

No auto-X, just high performance street and occasional strip use.

Rich

Glad the BBC bug I placed took hold.

540-572+ BBC would be a good street motor IMHO.

Both the SBC and BBC would probably use race style heads, so prices are going to be relatively high for both.

A 18 deg BBC head would be very helpfull because higher compression ratios which are needed to pull of a NA motor are achived better with a more compact smaller chamber, which will work better with pump gas. The interesting thing is that 900-1000hp NA is doable then. A 900hp 572 is the same HP per cube that a 700hp 427 is or a 600hp 365. A 1.6-1.7 HP per cube rule would be very driveable still, so more cubes mean more power here.

I'm not going on the cool factor, but on the total cost factor and swap factor. You have to go with a different cooling system setup with the SBC or BBC, and since you have the F1 it's worth something and if you don't have to use it later on a BBC.

I don't even know if you have to use the N2O for where you want to be if you go BBC. The car should be strong enough NA to get you into the 9's without any helpers, mostly it's just good heads. Well that and a SR because it's a BBC.

Bret

Might want to consider the Gen 1 SBC, with a 2-stage nitrous system. 125-shot for the street, another 150-175 for the track. You could be looking at close to 550 on motor - pretty mild, 675-700 with the little shot and 875HP with the big shot.

That's basically the way I started out... but then the NJ "mobile emissions" inspection shut me down as far as street driving, and now I'm sort of "stuck" with a car I can't really drive on the street - even though it would pass rolling emissions, and isn't fast enough for the track.

For a street driven car, I would think the SBC would be a lot more manageable than the added weight of the BBC.

Personally, I'd take the weight break. But you can't deny the potential of the BBC. It (572-598ci) could go 750hp and still be very streetable.

-Mindgame


Is an aluminum BBC out of the question? I know Trickflow, Brodix, and a maybe even Keith Black cast one with a plethora of different options. Not too long ago in HOTROD magazine there was an article about an ~620ci aluminum bigblock that was fuel injected. It was VERY conservative and made well over 700hp.

Rich mentioned in his 1st post that an aluminum BBC was out of the question. :)

Sure, if money is no object you could use the Donovon 5" bore space block and build a 760ci BBC. The limits of the imagination are infinite... just not the pocketbook. ;)

-Mindgame

Just out of curiousity, how much more does a BBC weigh than an SBC???

Just out of curiousity, how much more does a BBC weigh than an SBC???

Figure a ~150lb constant in that formula :).

Ryan

Just out of curiousity, how much more does a BBC weigh than an SBC???

Big cool factor to an Al big block, for sure. A bare block is in the $4,000-5,000 range though. There is ~90-100lbs differerence in the bare block weight between a BB and a SB. An complete BB weighs ~150lbs more than a SB. Of course, I could leave of the SC and water injection, which would save ~50lbs.

It still seems like the pros and cons of each setup about cancel each other out. I am leaning toward the big block though. Build it with the BB, see how it runs, add nitrous "to taste"?

Rich

Build it with the BB, see how it runs, add nitrous "to taste"?

Rich
That's what I'd do. And sell the F1 to help fund things.

It still seems like the pros and cons of each setup about cancel each other out. I am leaning toward the big block though. Build it with the BB, see how it runs, add nitrous "to taste"?

Sounds tastey chef Krause. :D

I think that's a good choice. If we go back to that ol' $ per hp thing, the BBC looks even better. SBC just can't compete... at least not NA.

So you gonna building it piece by piece or start with a crate shortblock?

-Mindgame

Would the F1 be too small for use on a street big block? I've always liked the idea of a forced induction big block myself...

Sounds tastey chef Krause. :D

I think that's a good choice. If we go back to that ol' $ per hp thing, the BBC looks even better. SBC just can't compete... at least not NA.

So you gonna building it piece by piece or start with a crate shortblock?

-Mindgame

We were just talking on that very subject at the shop. Got differing opinions. I guess it depends on the ultimate goal. The production big blocks are pretty stout and a crate motor is a good value, so I am leaning that way. Crate iwth an ugraded valvetrain and some head porting???

Rich

Rich, we've done alot of engine swapping, LT1-BBC-SBC...

first and foremost, a tall deck big block will be a tight fit. Do-able, but not fun to work on AT_ALL.. Like spark plugs being worse than you can imagine..

For the street and occasional strip use, I would choose a short deck, big cube big block.. 10ish-1 compression, and throw the juice to if on the strip.

We had that 540" Shafiroff "Ultra Street" (http://www.shafiroff.com/ultrastreet.asp) motor in my car, it made 728 HP on the brake, with an 1190 King Demon carb, but we converted it to EFI and it ran 138 mph @ 3500# in my car.. Pretty stout to say the least- and that was basically untuned- hell it didn't even have a MAP sensor, but that's another story..

We took that same 540 and put a single stage big shot plate system on it, (dry) and ran a 5.33 (600') at our local track on drag radials with a glide but the car still weighed 3380#.. It would go 5.50's in a true 1/8, and there's room for more nitrous..
And- this was done through a set of hooker 2455 headers which are almost a perfect bolt in with a tubular k-member ;)

I went with a Dart Iron Eagle small block, short stroke, big bore, thumper turbo.. It doesn't make for much of a fun street car, but it's faster than the big block :)

Cliff notes: big bore 9.8 deck big block is a relatively easy fit and will make a super fun street car.. Nitrous to be low 9's at 4000#

good luck, and drop me an email if you have any specific questiojns.. We're putting a tall deck 572 in a '94Z now.. ;)

Rich, we've done alot of engine swapping, LT1-BBC-SBC...

first and foremost, a tall deck big block will be a tight fit. Do-able, but not fun to work on AT_ALL.. Like spark plugs being worse than you can imagine..

For the street and occasional strip use, I would choose a short deck, big cube big block.. 10ish-1 compression, and throw the juice to if on the strip.

We had that 540" Shafiroff "Ultra Street" (http://www.shafiroff.com/ultrastreet.asp) motor in my car, it made 728 HP on the brake, with an 1190 King Demon carb, but we converted it to EFI and it ran 138 mph @ 3500# in my car.. Pretty stout to say the least- and that was basically untuned- hell it didn't even have a MAP sensor, but that's another story..

We took that same 540 and put a single stage big shot plate system on it, (dry) and ran a 5.33 (600') at our local track on drag radials with a glide but the car still weighed 3380#.. It would go 5.50's in a true 1/8, and there's room for more nitrous..
And- this was done through a set of hooker 2455 headers which are almost a perfect bolt in with a tubular k-member ;)

I went with a Dart Iron Eagle small block, short stroke, big bore, thumper turbo.. It doesn't make for much of a fun street car, but it's faster than the big block :)

Cliff notes: big bore 9.8 deck big block is a relatively easy fit and will make a super fun street car.. Nitrous to be low 9's at 4000#

good luck, and drop me an email if you have any specific questiojns.. We're putting a tall deck 572 in a '94Z now.. ;)

Brady: I really appreciate the offer to answer questions. Shall I post them here or do you prefer via email?

I was thinking of a short deck block, for sure. Thanks for the header tip.

What K-member do you recommend and what did you do for cooling?

Rich

We were just talking on that very subject at the shop. Got differing opinions. I guess it depends on the ultimate goal. The production big blocks are pretty stout and a crate motor is a good value, so I am leaning that way. Crate iwth an ugraded valvetrain and some head porting???

Rich


Tough to beat the price on those crate motors from Shafiroff. Dart has you covered on cylinder heads with the Pro1. What you need is just gonna depend on what size motor you decide to build. If you want to go the route Bret suggested, there's only one head to consider IMO.... that's the Big Chief.

-Mindgame

Rich, I'll help where I can, when I can. :)

the radiator was picked up on ebay for nothing, it's a Nascar Fluidyne radiator.. You can kind of see it here..

http://teamprickracing.com/95z/xxx540/Dsc00894.jpg

We had to run the car for 10 minutes to get it warm enough to make a pass.. ;) (1- 12" electric fan)

I really don't think you need to get exotic on the heads for a street car.. The 540 had Dart 345 Pro 1's as cast... and it was shifted @ 7500.. It never quit pulling, I just couldn't bring myself to rev it any higher.. LOL

I'd never argue the performance of the big chief heads, but they wouldn't be my first choice for a street car...

Brady,
A 572 in a '94Z..... now I'm getting jealous. Nitrous motor I assume?
Let me know how the tall deck works out. Not sure how long I can survive without one.

Rich,
If you decide on a gen 1, I have a friend with a 421 using a Dart block w/ 18deg heads & setup for a big fogger system. Never been started. If interested, I can get you in touch w/ him for more info/pricing.

Lonnie, the 572 is a nitrous motor...... May have to spray a 100 shot to get it started.. LOL.. It'll make on the long side of 1k HP on motor, and the dual stage dry fogger will make it completely unmanageable..

http://teamprickracing.com/95z/day5/DSC00876.JPG

http://teamprickracing.com/95z/day5/DSC00878.JPG

The intake will spray 1200.. (not realistic, obviously)

The guy who built the intake went 8.0 @ 3200# on one stage with a 509 BBC, so we're optimistic.. ;)

I say if you wanna tackle the BBC go for it. You might wanna looking into stout Dart or World Castings SBC, and a single T88 turbo system

I say if you wanna tackle the BBC go for it. You might wanna looking into stout Dart or World Castings SBC, and a single T88 turbo system

I never had much luck with anything turbo. Great potential though! The heat and packaging problem of forced induction are something I am getting tired of dealing with. So I am currently leaning towards a BB with 650-750hp and nitrous for the track. I was looking at the short block here http://www.theengineshop.com/sbkits6.shtml with ~10:1 and a set of decent but not huge heads.

Thanks for all the ideas so far.

Rich

Let me know when you wanna slap on AFR bad boys on there

I was thinking more of Big Dukes MG.....

I would build it for overkill Rich, build it for 900hp and then you just have to get used to driving it. That's always my plan on stuff, if you want 450rwhp, shoot for 500rwhp then you will not have to rebuild it next year.

I still have a problem with only 10:1, that's why the 18 deg Big Dukes, you can get the chamber small enough with a flat top to make some power and still run street gas.

I was saying Big Dukes, and base them off of a CNC casting so you get a REALLY small port to start with. Then they don't have to be big to get what you need out of them, if I was going conventional I would stick with AFR's hands down.

Bret

I was thinking more of Big Dukes MG.....

I still have a problem with only 10:1, that's why the 18 deg Big Dukes, you can get the chamber small enough with a flat top to make some power and still run street gas.

And I was thinking 14º, even smaller 74cc chambers. :)

If you want to use a head that begins with "B", just use the one Sonny Leonard helped Brodix develop to compete with the Big C 14º head... the PB2005 (14.5º). Either way, you get an even smaller chamber and straighter shot for the air. Guys are winning with both heads so that's neither here or there. Each option is pricey and the NA power will be insane.

As for standard heads, I still have to go Dart. Based solely on their experience in developing heads for the BBC.

The milder 540 750-800hp combination with nitrous is enticing to say the least. Don't think anyone driving one around off the bottle would ever think to themselves.... "Man, I wish this wimp had a couple hundred more hp NA!". :D

-Mindgame

And I was thinking 14º, even smaller 74cc chambers. :)

If you want to use a head that begins with "B", just use the one Sonny Leonard helped Brodix develop to compete with the Big C 14º head... the PB2005 (14.5º). Either way, you get an even smaller chamber and straighter shot for the air. Guys are winning with both heads so that's neither here or there. Each option is pricey and the NA power will be insane.

As for standard heads, I still have to go Dart. Based solely on their experience in developing heads for the BBC.

The milder 540 750-800hp combination with nitrous is enticing to say the least. Don't think anyone driving one around off the bottle would ever think to themselves.... "Man, I wish this wimp had a couple hundred more hp NA!". :D

-Mindgame

MG, Bret, others: The last paragraph says where my head is at right now wrt the new combo. "Mild" 540 with N2O for the track, unless some nice Gen I SBC parts come my way. I also like Dart heads. I was thinking of the "Pro I". Something with a 325-350cc intake port?

Rich

If it were my build, I'd go with the Dart Pro1 345cc head. Plenty of potential there for the nitrous.

-Mindgame

Rich, we've done alot of engine swapping, LT1-BBC-SBC...

first and foremost, a tall deck big block will be a tight fit. Do-able, but not fun to work on AT_ALL.. Like spark plugs being worse than you can imagine..

For the street and occasional strip use, I would choose a short deck, big cube big block.. 10ish-1 compression, and throw the juice to if on the strip.

We had that 540" Shafiroff "Ultra Street" (http://www.shafiroff.com/ultrastreet.asp) motor in my car, it made 728 HP on the brake, with an 1190 King Demon carb, but we converted it to EFI and it ran 138 mph @ 3500# in my car.. Pretty stout to say the least- and that was basically untuned- hell it didn't even have a MAP sensor, but that's another story..

We took that same 540 and put a single stage big shot plate system on it, (dry) and ran a 5.33 (600') at our local track on drag radials with a glide but the car still weighed 3380#.. It would go 5.50's in a true 1/8, and there's room for more nitrous..
And- this was done through a set of hooker 2455 headers which are almost a perfect bolt in with a tubular k-member ;)

I went with a Dart Iron Eagle small block, short stroke, big bore, thumper turbo.. It doesn't make for much of a fun street car, but it's faster than the big block :)

Cliff notes: big bore 9.8 deck big block is a relatively easy fit and will make a super fun street car.. Nitrous to be low 9's at 4000#

good luck, and drop me an email if you have any specific questiojns.. We're putting a tall deck 572 in a '94Z now.. ;)

Brady/others: I am getting serious about the BB in a 4th gen idea. So, I have a bunch of questions. If you prefer to answer/correspond via email, please let me know.

1. What K-member did you use?
2. Did you fit a manifold under the stock hood or use a cowl hood? What manifold did you go with?
3. Did you keep the stock PCM to run the gauges?
4. Did you bother with any kind of cold air intake or just draw from under the hood?
5. What distributor and were there major fitment problems?
6. What did you for an exhaust? You already mentioned the Hooker #2455, but what about the rest of the exhaust?
7. What tranny are you using? I'd like to just keep my Rossler TH400.

Thanks very much to anyone who can help with these questions. I will also email to Brady.

Rich

Brady/others: I am getting serious about the BB in a 4th gen idea. So, I have a bunch of questions. If you prefer to answer/correspond via email, please let me know.

1. What K-member did you use?
PA Racing

2. Did you fit a manifold under the stock hood or use a cowl hood? What manifold did you go with?
Cowl hood, have to notch the cowl, but you can keep the wipers. We used a Vic Jr. intake, converted to EFI by Force

3. Did you keep the stock PCM to run the gauges?
The PCM isn't required for anything except the speedometer. I used to have it in my car, but it didn't make the last round of weight reduction. I still use the rest of the stock gauges though

4. Did you bother with any kind of cold air intake or just draw from under the hood?
Let it draw from under the cowl

5. What distributor and were there major fitment problems?
MSD Crab Cap distributor and a crank trigger. No problems at all.

6. What did you for an exhaust? You already mentioned the Hooker #2455, but what about the rest of the exhaust?
3-1/2" Dynomax race magnums w/turndowns.

7. What tranny are you using? I'd like to just keep my Rossler TH400.
Used to be a TH400, but switched to a glide. with a 4000# car, you'll need to stay with the TH400.

Thanks very much to anyone who can help with these questions. I will also email to Brady.

Rich
Good Luck!

I loved your old setup. So my vote would be to do a forged rebuild. Sounds like a freak problem caused you to loose oil presser. It shouldnt happen again. You alreaty have everything for that setup, just rebuild the bottom end again. That to me would be the best street/strip setup, and get the best milage.

If you're going to go big block, my friend has had great results from his Reher-Morrison BBC 502. Dyno'd at ~ 1000HP, and if he had the guts to run it all out, its supposed to run an 8.0 1/4 mile. I dont know if any of their engines are streetable though, his is in a race car and run on alcohol. Check them out though http://www.rehermorrison.com/ His father runs their 409 small block too, and has had great luck with it.

I still say do a rebuild though :)

Might want to consider the Gen 1 SBC, with a 2-stage nitrous system. 125-shot for the street, another 150-175 for the track. You could be looking at close to 550 on motor - pretty mild, 675-700 with the little shot and 875HP with the big shot.

That's basically the way I started out... but then the NJ "mobile emissions" inspection shut me down as far as street driving, and now I'm sort of "stuck" with a car I can't really drive on the street - even though it would pass rolling emissions, and isn't fast enough for the track.

For a street driven car, I would think the SBC would be a lot more manageable than the added weight of the BBC.

Fred: I was looking into the weight. By using a tubular CM (necessary anyway) and ditching the blower (no longer needed), AC, and water injection I will probably be about the same weight.

How does "rolling emissions" work? They can stop you and inspect the car even if it passes tailpipe? Oh, Brave New World! Maybe it is all for "Homeland Security"?

Rich

I personally want to do the BBC, EFI with a 6 speed. All aluminum, and 60z cubic inches of fun :)

P

I personally want to do the BBC, EFI with a 6 speed. All aluminum, and 60z cubic inches of fun :)

P

Me too, except for one "little" thing. A bare aluminum block costs in excess of $4,000. This adds at least $2,000 to the cost of the project. 100lbs isn't going to make a lot of difference here anyway. Also, what 6-speed is up to the task?

Rich

a built up or viper adapted t56 is good for 6-700 ft-lbs with easy launches isnt it? still i guess thats on the milder side of a 600 inch big block

a built up or viper adapted t56 is good for 6-700 ft-lbs with easy launches isnt it? still i guess thats on the milder side of a 600 inch big block

Even the "puny" 540 I am contemplating would make ~700hp and I plan to spray ~200hp on top of that. And besides, who wants to launch soft?

Rich

Get the General's 572 BB crate engine 800+ on fuel and 780 on pump gas with the 800HP version.That way you don't have to buy all the BB accessories,valve covers,pan,plug wires,ect.
Just knock the wood off and install.

G-Force, Jericho, Liberty, etc.

Interesting thread...gives me bad ideas. lol

G-Force, Jericho, Liberty, etc.

Interesting thread...gives me bad ideas. lol

Lenco! Figure $7,500+ for the tranny, custom bellhousing/clutch setup :cry:

Rich

Ive had thoughts of a bbc in my car but I want to keep my 6spd can it be done?

If you are running a T-56 in that 900+HP car then go for it.I don't think a T-56 will stand up behind a 502+CI or larger BB if you "hook" it.You may get Liberty or somebody to fix it where it can but $$$ and you are going to need a clutch from hell and not a Spect stage 2.

When I broke my T56 I called around to quite a number of places looking for beefier parts. G-Force was pretty confident in recommending their beefed T56... claiming that it's "conservatively" rated for apps making 900hp. I bought the do-it-youself parts but not the tranny. Nice to know I could throw a 200hp shot on it if I ever wanted to. ;)
I think this project of Rich's would really be pushing the limits though. The manual trannies that do have the guts aren't going to make for pleasant shifting in a daily commuter. I used to have a weekend driver with a Jerico 4 speed in it. Wasn't too bad but man, I wouldn't want that in anything I had to drive through alot of traffic with. Strong tranny with violent full throttle shifts but not exactly driver friendly.

Rich,
Are you planning to go FI with this project? Gonna use a carb-type intake or something with a front-mount throttle body? If carb-type, the longblock crate motors might not be a bad idea.... although that 572 does have a tall deck.... :think:

-Mindgame

When I broke my T56 I called around to quite a number of places looking for beefier parts. G-Force was pretty confident in recommending their beefed T56... claiming that it's "conservatively" rated for apps making 900hp. I bought the do-it-youself parts but not the tranny. Nice to know I could throw a 200hp shot on it if I ever wanted to. ;)
I think this project of Rich's would really be pushing the limits though. The manual trannies that do have the guts aren't going to make for pleasant shifting in a daily commuter. I used to have a weekend driver with a Jerico 4 speed in it. Wasn't too bad but man, I wouldn't want that in anything I had to drive through alot of traffic with. Strong tranny with violent full throttle shifts but not exactly driver friendly.

Rich,
Are you planning to go FI with this project? Gonna use a carb-type intake or something with a front-mount throttle body? If carb-type, the longblock crate motors might not be a bad idea.... although that 572 does have a tall deck.... :think:

-Mindgame

Yes, I am thinking of EFI with a converted carb type intake (and a cowl hood) as the simplest way to do the EFI. Maybe a Vic Jr.? Do you have any ideas as to which would be preferable?

Rich

Lenco! Figure $7,500+ for the tranny, custom bellhousing/clutch setup :cry:

Rich
Wait, your NOT made out of money?

Hey rich there was a guy a while back that was posting in the for sale section a complete SB2.2 modified for LT1 use top end package including fi modified intake and the SB2.2 headers, I believe he was asking $6500 for everything if I'm not mistaken ( don't quote me on that). But I bet you could more than reach your performance goals with that on top of a 383 or 396 block.

All of these combos sound fun.i dont think ou can bbut everybody has a camaro w a 383 eat a big block for big power and reliability.after all there is no replacement for displacment.the biggest thing about the big block is there is not as much after market stuff like brackets and junk. ive had to fab alot.i mainly went big block because everybody has a 383 camaro.i just like to be diffrant.

Rich,
Keep your eye out on Edelbrock. They've had their "Competition EFI" setups in the catalog for the last two years but I don't know if they've actually released anything yet??
Either way, they have a Super Victor EFI intake slated for release. Has all the workings minus fuel rails and throttle body. With Edelbrock's manufacturing capabilities, I don't doubt they could make this as an affordable offering... we'll just have to wait and see.

The LT1-style intake would be nice too, but something like that is going to set you back at least 3 grand. If it were me, this is the route I'd go because I just don't care for "where" the TB end up on these carbie intake conversions.... especially with the BBC.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

Couldn't he use one of GM's EFI manifolds for the ZZ502? Or better yet, just throw the whole crate motor in the car. :)

[QUOTE=Brady_96Z]I went with a Dart Iron Eagle small block, short stroke, big bore, thumper turbo.. It doesn't make for much of a fun street car, but it's faster than the big block :)


That is yet to be seen...... ;) and she isn't going to get it done sitting in the trailer either... :D

How does "rolling emissions" work? They can stop you and inspect the car even if it passes tailpipe? Oh, Brave New World! Maybe it is all for "Homeland Security"?
A specialty truck hangs out on the side of the road. As you drive by, it will suck in the air from your exhaust and do a quick test. If you fail, the truck (or someone further up ahead) takes a pic of your plate and sends you a ticket :rolleyes:

A specialty truck hangs out on the side of the road. As you drive by, it will suck in the air from your exhaust and do a quick test. If you fail, the truck (or someone further up ahead) takes a pic of your plate and sends you a ticket :rolleyes:

You mean like this?!

I took this with the camera on my phone. I remembered this thread shortly thereafter. Kind of old :eek:.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/532000-532999/532676_141_full.jpg

For any fellow Tejas pimps this is just north of the Beltway on the 288 entrance :death:.
Ryan

Might be a bad place to post this but I've looked everywhere.....what did you do about the VATS system? I got rid of my computer and harness. Am I screwed now with this VATS system? Will the key look to send a signal to a PCM that is not there?

I am aware of the bypass but I believe you still need the CPU for that!!

BTW: MY car is a 95 TA and what is going in the car is a 511 BB with Dart heads. Bottom end is all forged and it will have a modified 1100 carb. The cam is a solid lifter (specs escape me right now).

If anyone can help with the VATS problem I would be extremely appreciative!!!!

Might be a bad place to post this but I've looked everywhere.....what did you do about the VATS system? I got rid of my computer and harness. Am I screwed now with this VATS system? Will the key look to send a signal to a PCM that is not there?

I am aware of the bypass but I believe you still need the CPU for that!!

BTW: MY car is a 95 TA and what is going in the car is a 511 BB with Dart heads. Bottom end is all forged and it will have a modified 1100 carb. The cam is a solid lifter (specs escape me right now).

If anyone can help with the VATS problem I would be extremely appreciative!!!!

I'm confused. If you have no computer, you have no VATS, right?

Rich

That would be fabulous if no cpu no vats was the case!! I was worried about this detail.

I was just wondering if the electronics in the column would be looking for a signal?

So, my regular key will work as if there was no VATS?

That would be fabulous if no cpu no vats was the case!! I was worried about this detail.

I was just wondering if the electronics in the column would be looking for a signal?

So, my regular key will work as if there was no VATS?

I am pretty sure that this is the case. I don't see why it wouldn't be.

Rich

You will need to rewire the purple wire going to your starter to the i forget what color wire it is coming out of the ign switch to the vat's module.. Otherwise you won't get the 12v to kick the starter..

I think it's a grey wire that grounds the coil on the VATS relay. Just cut the grey wire and ground it, good to go. Or you can bypass the relay by tieing the big yellow wire to the big purple wire.. If memory serves :)

. Or you can bypass the relay by tieing the big yellow wire to the big purple wire.. If memory serves :)
There you go :) :bow: i was speaking of bypassing.. didn't know the grounding trick...

Will LS7 heads work on a bored and stroked LQ9 iron block? That could be interesting...