2pt/3pt STB and Tubular/boxed SFC comparisons??

i got a 94Z with Ttops. I have more than stock power :cool: and my car flexes at stop lights when I rev the motor. Its not the motor mounts..im pretty sure anyways..i think its cool (kind of intimidating too! :D )
But..i know id get better times when i take it to the track and better road handling if i do a STB and SFC...only question i have is.. whats the advantage of a 3 pt STB if a 2 pt is about as good and not NEARLY the pain to put in (from what ive read before). I notice most put the 2pt..its easy to just bolt on..simple as that. 3 pot..i heard you have to go under the windshield and tear stuff out and its a pain..this true?
Also...Ive read a few threads on the boxed and tubular..which is better or is that just preferrence? I know someone said one or the other..forgot which (id imagine the boxed)..but one is visible from the side of the car and its abit lower...that wouldnt be a prob for me as long as it wasnt lower than the cat..which i beleive is the lowest point on our cars (?). No matter which i end up with however, i will weld..i dont like the sound of bolting stuff on when it can be welded..thats a no brainer unless you plan on removing them for some reason :rolleyes:
Anyways, those are my 2 questions..anyones .02 or knowledgable .02 preferred :p
Thanks guys, Derek

wow..so no one on this board knows the differences (advantages) between 2 point and 3 point Strut Tower Braces...or Tubular and Boxed Sub-Frame connectors?? :confused:

I'd help you out, but I don't know. Sorry.
I have the same question, actually.

the more connection points the better tube if done right is better than boxed as tube has no weak sides the are all the same. Any that are constucted well and installed well are going to add stiffness. The material they are made out of will make the major difference. and BTW i bet you would have got many answers if you posted in the chassis forum not an lt1 engine forum :)

yea, try suspension forum next time, or search as they have tons of info
but to answer...i would go with 2pt. stb myself
it seems pretty sturdy and would do the same job as a 3pt, but a 3pt would take some of that load and place it in the 3rd pt, therefore lightening the load on the other 2pts.
basically, just choose what you feel is best there

sfcs- basically, boxed are better for dragging, and tubular are made for lowered cars or ones where you don't want to see the sfc's
i'll be going with tubular since i plan on lowering my car
good luck with whatever you go with:)

ive seen problems where the 3pt STB busted the windshield pretty good. Anybody else seen that?

I have heard that the 2pt is better than the 3pt bar for our cars because the 3rd point connects under the windsheild, and there isn't much metal there. Like elguapo said, sometimes it busts the windsheild!

ive seen problems where the 3pt STB busted the windshield pretty good. Anybody else seen that?
Have you actually "seen" it, or are you passing on the typical "urban legend" that has existed since someone first invented the 3-pt? In years of actively searching for a real case of a broken windshield, I've found one verified post, and that was a road race car that decided to take an off-road excursion and ended up in a ditch.

8 years, 800HP and my windshield is still in one piece :D :

STB (http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injuneerzz@aol.com/Photos/2000+HP_Baxter)

And no, you don't have to "go under the windshield and tear stuff out ". Pull up the plastic wiper surround, pull up the rubber gasket, drill two holes, bolt it in. I've managed to swap the injectors and completely remove the fuel rails with the 3-pt (LG Motorsposrts calls it their "4-pt") in place.

well thanks for the replies guys..it does help. its pretty much what i figured with both..just not 100% sure. I heard once about the broken windshield thing..but like injuneer said..i can only imagine in a SEVERE (sp..lol) case. Youd have to crunch the front end pretty dang hard to bust the other 2 mounts in order for the third to move enough to break a windshield :p
Anyways, I think ill just be a lemming and go with the 2pt..it seems they are sufficient for the power limit ill most likely hit for now anyways..and with the SFCs...i plan on going 17 or 18s but lowering only 1" or so...but since the tubular wouldnt have any weak points and the cost is most likely the same (?)..ill weld in some tubulars. Thanks for the post guys..and yeah, i know its a chasis/suspension post..i noticed after i posted but wasnt sure how to change it...figured..id get a reply anyways...oh well.. :rolleyes:
Thanks guys and it doesnt sound like the 3 pt is as bad as i though..maybe ill look into that..hmm...as always appreciated..Derek

STBs are a waste of money IMO. as far as LCAs go, i would do boxed if i were to do it over again. just my .02

I got the LGM 3point STB and it's good. Yes, it's a bit more pain to put in, but not much. The third point is good to have, as it trialangulates the whole setup. 2 point setup can go anywhere, 3 point always moves the same way, as it doesn't have anywhere to go. Do an experiment, take a bar stool with 3 legs, and try to make it wobble--not possible ;) that's why you want it, it's always the same, and that's a good thing in suspension.

As far as LCA's go, don't get crappy ones, you'll be changing them after a year (i'm about to). Get aluminium rod-end ones, you'll be done for a long time.

I don't agree with everything said here but..

1st off he was asking about sfc's and stb's so where did lca's come in?

and about the sfc's I just got some slp's and I think there great. They're the triangular kind based off the kdd's, but w/ better welds. The tri. kind I is over kill unless you plane on doing autox (like me). For drag go with the tubular kind like the one's bmr makes.

...if your interested in some cool lca's that are cheap I'm currently in the process of making my own alum. one's w/ Qa1 rod ends.

-b