1/4 mile times , is this good? (cammed LT-1)

Hi i went TO the track yesterday and ran these times bellow with my 230/236 cam,3000-3500 converter, pcm tuning, ET STREET'S, and a bunch of other bolton's. i think they suck i feel like i have no topend!!!!


my best run of the day


RT .674
60' 2.067
330 5.740
1/8 8.747
MPH 82.19
1000 11.332
1/4 13.523
MPH 100.82


MY OTHER RUN WAS PRETTY IDENTICAL BUT WITH A 2.1 60 AND A 103.5 MPH!

WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK? I'M STILL NOT HAPPY
:confused: :confused:

I ran the times in sig pre-cam, your runs seem low to me when compared to mine.

Rockers too tight perhaps?


13.600 @100.68 with cai,cat-back, converter 3.42's and drag radials

Have since added the cam valvetrain and headers

Ouch and I thought my mph was low for a cammed LT1.

make sure you do the usual checks.check for arcing plug wire,fuel pressure and get someone to scan it.I find most of the time it is something small like a fuel filter of something.

is the cam your only mod? what were track temps? I used to run 106mph with a stock cam

track temp around 60's


i got the usual mods headers,intake,exhaust or cutout, etc but cam and 1.6 rockers are the biggest mods i have.

who tuned it? was it dynoed? do you have some numbers?

I would start checking all the basics too

What is the tracks elevation?

If you have bolt ons w/ that stall n cam you should atleast be in the mid 12's around 105-107 mph's

i'll be checking for fuel pressure and other small things.



TRACK INFO:


Elevation & General Data
MSL: Approximately 635' 194m (estimated)
Location: 33559 Famoso Rd.
Lat/Long: 35.5966219 - 119.1276042 (estimated)
Track Length: 1/4 mile
Run Off Length: 1/4 mile
Parking Area: A whole bunch
Pit Area: 60 + acres
Maximum Seating: 8000

Ouch man, some thing is deff not right. Your best MPH is that of a average bolt on car. I think the fact your not feelinga top end may have some thing to do with it. Your sixtys also are slow for ET streets and that big of stall.

That's definiately bolt on, stock engine territory...
Log your runs with a scan tool!

Well its not the altitude.

What was the Temperature,Humidity and Barometer reading?

It could have been air quality,what did you run before the cam?

Originally posted by neil350
Ouch man, some thing is deff not right. Your best MPH is that of a average bolt on car. I think the fact your not feelinga top end may have some thing to do with it. Your sixtys also are slow for ET streets and that big of stall.

If I trapped 100 with boltons I would be pissed!

I get my car in the high 12's @ 110 with shorties and the 224/230.

I would for sure check the fuel and ignition systems.

Something is definitely wrong. I pulled a 13.5 @ 100 with a gear, CAI, and shorties. Like someone else said check the basics and go from there with it.

What kind of converter are you running? A 2.0 sixty foot on ET Streets is a very bad problem.

Good Luck getting it sorted out. Thats goes with racing I guess, I still haven't made a trip to the track since the cam that I have been satisfied with.

fuel pressure is good!


whaT else should i check that would make a diference.?

I hate to say it man, but your probably almost a second slower than you should be. The time in my sig is with a stock motor, stock manifolds, cutout,pcmforless, nittos, 3.23s, vig 2800 and a 1.85 60ft. How does the car feel when driving it normally?:confused:

car feels pretty good most of the time when cruisin it but sometimes i'll get a slow reaction on full throttle.


i think it's probably a tired LT-1, OR COULD it be the gears that i have (3:23) with a high stall.


if i can't figure it out i will dyno the car soon


mybe the throttle plate don't open up all the way!!
:D

I don't think your gears are the culprit. I have 3.23s as well and a bigger stall and a 1.85 60. How much do you heat your tires up? Do you get alot of wheelspin?

i took a close look at the engine and the water pump and opti are covered with oil.


another thing i just found out there is like grey smoke coming from my ekaust pipe under full throttle, the reason i know is because i guy with a nissan 350z which i beat told me!


does that mean anything?

Is it coolant or oil by your WP/opti? The moisture could be causing the opti to not function properly. If the smoke is grey then your running rich and need a tune.

Just to compare, the time in my sig is boltons only, no headers or tuning. Id get that thing scanned ASAP, It should definitely be much faster. Maybe the opti spark?
-Mark

well i'm in the middle of buying a pcm scanner so i could tell you guy's a little more. i'll let you guy's know, thanks on the reply

SS mark, your running 12.7 with stock manifolds and no tune???:eek: I am then going to assume a very high stall + gears + slicks to get that low of an e.t.? Your mph is really high for no headers as well. How about a list of mods? You have certainly peaked my interest.:bow:

You haven't really answered anybody's question on whether or not it was tuned after the cam install. If the answer is no, there is your problem. A cam that big w/o a tune won't do you any favors.

i've had pcm tuning for every big mod i got done,

it's oil by the opti, i'm going to save up money to get a delteq coil conversion for it later. \


my air fuel guage shows it's running rich but then again it's an eectric digital guage i don't think it's really acurate.


i hope i could get that scanner so i could post all the readings.

Originally posted by MN1996Z28SS
SS mark, your running 12.7 with stock manifolds and no tune???:eek: I am then going to assume a very high stall + gears + slicks to get that low of an e.t.? Your mph is really high for no headers as well. How about a list of mods? You have certainly peaked my interest.:bow:

Mods are as follows

FLP trans w/ vig 2800
3.73's
UD Pully
y-pipe/hi-flow cat/3" catback w/cutout
CAI w/ the free ramair mod
I ran on BFG DR's w/ skinnies, no spare/jack, system in car.
Fully loaded, including leather, no t-tops
That about covers it
Oh yah, 1.78 60', could have been better but the track wasnt hooking to well that day.
Just a reference on how much that vig 2800 ownz, I dropped .5 and gained 3mph by going to the FLP trans and that converter over the old trans w/ a B&M 2400

If it is tuned properly, then i'd look at the ignition system. I replaced basically every ignition component chasing down a stumble in my old 95Z.

Another option is knock retard definitely get some data logs on that thing.

Also that oil leak, can you tell where it's coming from? Is it the timing chain cover? Intake manifold?

Originally posted by SS Mark
Mods are as follows

FLP trans w/ vig 2800
3.73's
UD Pully
y-pipe/hi-flow cat/3" catback w/cutout
CAI w/ the free ramair mod
I ran on BFG DR's w/ skinnies, no spare/jack, system in car.
Fully loaded, including leather, no t-tops
That about covers it
Oh yah, 1.78 60', could have been better but the track wasnt hooking to well that day.
Just a reference on how much that vig 2800 ownz, I dropped .5 and gained 3mph by going to the FLP trans and that converter over the old trans w/ a B&M 2400

You dropped .5 sec and +3mph from tranny and stall? I hope same happens for me. I am having a tranny built by Dana at pro-built automatics (the "Limited" Street use tranny) with a vig2800 TC. I also have LCAs, APHR, relocation brackets, and SFCs. Hopefully those help too.

Originally posted by ScreamnChicken
You dropped .5 sec and +3mph from tranny and stall? I hope same happens for me. I am having a tranny built by Dana at pro-built automatics (the "Limited" Street use tranny) with a vig2800 TC. I also have LCAs, APHR, relocation brackets, and SFCs. Hopefully those help too.
With the old stall I would hook well but then it would bog down pretty bad until it got to like 4k again, Im not sure if it was a combo of the slipping trans and stall or what but with the new trans and converter I just took off with no bog. Felt good getting that 12.7 pass :D

if you run at the track a lot i'd recomend getting the TTS Datamaster logging software and a laptop, this information really comes in handy when you go to get your car tuned

the cable is $65 from AKM Cables and the Datamaster reg key is $100, its well worth the money

i just recently bought my 95 z28 and it ran 13.64 @ 101 with just SLP catback and CIA with 2.73 gears, i made my first pass saturday with 3.73's and hit a 13.41 @ 103 on street tires

i have no knowledge on LT1's at all but i'm curious as to why most modded LT1's are still in the high 13s?

i think only one wheel is spinning because one was pretty wasted compared too the other one, so i guess i'll wait for my LT-1 SCANMASTER, THEN I'M WORKING ON GETTING A LAPTOP TO DO SOME TUNING WITH LT-1 EDIT.

Originally posted by camaro81

i have no knowledge on LT1's at all but i'm curious as to why most modded LT1's are still in the high 13s?

They shouldn't be. They either have bad drivers or bad running cars. 13's are attainable stock.

Originally posted by Kreinmc
They shouldn't be. They either have bad drivers or bad running cars. 13's are attainable stock.

Or they live in areas where the altitude is high or it's extreemly hot and muggy.

For instance my new set up ran a 11.43 @ 119 at my home track and at Indy it ran 11.6xs @115-6. Now was I a worse driver at Indy? I don't think so, I won 2 trophys. The difference was the weather and the track.

So it's not necessarily a bad car or driver. Now when they are beside you in the other lane and can't get it done then you can comment on their driving skills or car.