LS1 Aluminum driveshaft ET/HP limits

Will the factory LS1 shaft run mid 10's in a 3700 lb 500RWHP, 4L60E equipped 94 Z28 and live, or do I need to drop the dough for a good shaft?

David

I've seen and heard of people breaking them with 300rwhp or less, mainly M6 cars though. The LS1 ds isnt made for drag racing, they're not all that strong. In an M6 car with that hp it would probably go quick, in an A4 it might hold for a while but thats still a lot of rwhp and and a rather heavy car. I would go with something stronger.

The factory aluminum driveshaft is very weak. It's a thin walled tube with a cardboard insert.

If you have a lot of HP, either buy an aftermarket aluminum shaft or a good steel shaft. I use a custom made 3" diameter x .083" walled steel shaft in my race car with 1350 series u-joints. A local driveline shop made it up for me.

Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
The factory aluminum driveshaft is very weak. It's a thin walled tube with a cardboard insert.

This man is right on the money. I found out the hard way; twisted my LS1 shaft apart right in the middle on launch.....I don't think my car moved 2 inches. Thank god I have a DS loop.

Replaced it w/ a Spohn 3" steel DS. Very heavy DS, but is solid, well built, and well balanced. Might hurt me a bit in power to the ground and weight, but one less thing I have to worry about breaking.

I guess you just have to choose your breaking point.........engine, tranny, driveshaft, or rear end

Do ur self a favor and change the stock DS. This is what happend to mine on a 5500RPM launch on Nittos.


http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=12

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All you guys that have broken them have manual tranny, or a trans brake. I know of guys here locally that have went high 10's on the aluminum shaft with an auto and a footbrake as I will have do you guys know of anyone in the 10's with an automatic and the aluminum shaft??


David

I have a LPE driveshaft. Reasonable price and have not had any problems.

Another vote for the LPE shaft. It's 3.5" diameter and much thicker walled that the LS1 shaft. The yoke area is also beefed up. The 3" steel shaft would certainly be more durable, but it costs you in rotation mass.

Didn't you answer your own question?

Will it run 10's auto 500hp

then

I know guys that have done it



?????

If you must have an Al driveshaft the Lingenfelter 3.5" shaft or Denny's HD shaft are good bets. But I would get a good steel shaft for drag racing. Denny's or Dynotech are two good sources.

Rich Krause

I may have found us a good source for shafts



www.musclemotorsports.com

$50 a shot


David

What about a carbon fiber driveshaft, would that be even better then the steel/aluminum or is it asking for trouble with high HP numbers.....

Originally posted by FLYNLOW92rs
What about a carbon fiber driveshaft, would that be even better then the steel/aluminum or is it asking for trouble with high HP numbers.....

CF has some theoretical advantages for a DS. But they are expensive and I have heard bad things about the available units. Not something I would try.

Rich Krause

well I put my stock LS1 aluminum driveshaft thru some hell this weekend and it held up. 5 10sec. passes but the car never dead hooked on any of the passes and my best 60' was 1.60 so with a dead hook the shaft might twist up but it may not. ;)

Hey David, why don't you get clutch products to build you one. That's what Tommy is running and he is running well over 1000 hp at 3200 LBS, no failures yet.

Shannon

Originally posted by MEATHEAD
Hey David, why don't you get clutch products to build you one. That's what Tommy is running and he is running well over 1000 hp at 3200 LBS, no failures yet.

Shannon

Hey dude, are yall going to Hattiesburg Sunday? DO you yall need some dead weight to go along? I am free, call me if yall need some help before then.

662-1320

David

Not sure if TPR will be making the trip or not. Hell I'm still overseas right now I'm just checking in...... :(