Those with Eagle Forged H-beams inside!

I was just curious if you all were using the Eagle ARP rod bolts that come with the rods, or are you upgrading them. I was going to upgrade them to the ARP Proseries bolts, but quickly realized that they weren't going to work when they showed up on my doorstep. The eagle bolts are just bolts, not bolts with a head and a nut like the Pro-series one's. Just wanted to hear if anyone upgraded these bolts.

Bill

I ordered mine with the upgrade cause the guy helping me build my engine told me too. Why won't they work for you?

Originally posted by 97WS6SCharged
I ordered mine with the upgrade cause the guy helping me build my engine told me too. Why won't they work for you?

If I'm reading it right Smoknz bought those T-bolts. The ones that come with Eagle H-beams are just regular bolts, like you would find on headers lets say.

Originally posted by LT1RX7
If I'm reading it right Smoknz bought those T-bolts. The ones that come with Eagle H-beams are just regular bolts, like you would find on headers lets say.

Thats correct. I just wanted to know what you all thought of the ARP bolts that come with the rods?

I've heard really bad things about the ARP 8740 rod bolts that come in the H-beams. Wall-2-Wall racing replaces all of theirs because they've had them break while torquing them down.

I tried to replace mine with ARP L19 rod bolts, but found that they have bigger heads and would mess up the balance and clearancing done with the 8740's. So. . . I got some ARP 2000's that are dimensionally the same as the 8740's, but much stronger.

Call Frank at:

gofaststuff.com

and he'll get the right ones for you.

Mike

Originally posted by engineermike
Call Frank at: gofaststuff.com

Bill, I've purchased engine components from Frank B4. I consider him a good guy to do business with. He's in Illinois.

Bill I ran my 8740ARPS last year, but upgraded to the 2000's. I didnt break any or did I show any signs of fatigue. They are rated at like 800hp. The 2000's are good to about 1200hp(under rated). I would order up some of the ARP 2000. Best place I found to get them is Jegs. The part number is eagle 20,000

Thanks Guys! I'll get some on order!

Bill

Jake,

Do you have another partnumber, I tried searching Jegs and also under the ARP bolts and didn't find them. They do have Bolts for ARP rods, but they are just the 8740 ones.

Bill

. . . or you could call Frank at gofaststuff.com. . . very knowledgable.

Mike

I could do that to :D I couldn't pull up the website, but I'll search google.

Bill

Im using the ARP that came with them.

Rod bolt i alwasy thought are and RPM thing, S/C motor dont turn high RPMs

Shrug

Will the ARP 2000 throw out my internal balancing???

is this the ones I need to buy?
Jegs
070-234-6403

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1397&prmenbr=361

Thanks!!!!

If the ARP 2000's have the same head size as the 8740's, then it doesn't need re-balancing.

My ARP 2000's had the same head size, but according to a local engine builder, the new 2000's have the larger heads of the L19's.

If this is true, it will need re-balancing and probably re-clearancing of the block and oil pan.

Mike

SStroker Ace told me I needed no rebalancing for the l19

Now I need to find this out as I dont want to throw off the balancing of everything.

The L19's (and maybe the 2000's) have larger heads than the 8740's. Sooooo, they must weigh more.

Mike

Anyways I am not exactly sure which ones I have.. so I will have to check it out...

Any way to know?

It's stamped into the bolt head.

Mike

I found out... they are 8740s... so... they will be replaced... the reality is that I decided to remove the engine while jacking the car and for some reason it slipped to the PAN and it dented the pan a WHOLE LOT! so... now that the engine has NOTHING but the shortblock on the car.. I guess I have an excuse now to remove it and send the pistons to ceramic coat.. but I guess I will have to REBALANCE the whole rotating assembly.. I will weigh those rod bolts at school to check them out if they are the same weight or not.

The standard and huge 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts that come with the Eagle H-Beams are dramatic overkill and will not break probably ever unless you do something wrong. These are also run on the large big block chevy rods with great results too. On the small block stuff it's total overkill bt a little insurance too.

I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!

The standard and huge 7/16 ARP 8740 bolts that come with the Eagle H-Beams are dramatic overkill and will not break probably ever unless you do something wrong. These are also run on the large big block chevy rods with great results too. On the small block stuff it's total overkill bt a little insurance too.

I've never had a rod bolt break on me in my life when tightening it!



Wow

2 year old post brought back to life!:eek:

Wow somehow it just got sent to me though! Sorry!

It takes about 3 torqueings with the moly to get rid of the friction and obtain the right torque, or use the stretch gauge which is better in my opinion.

Some torque wrench experiences:
At work, we have a metrology department that has a Snap-On torque wrench tester. I checked my torque wrenches on it, and the Sears Craftsman ones were +-1# across the range which was a pleasant surprise, but the cheaper Made in Taiwan one that I use for wheel lugs was light by a 8-9# at 100# (I re-calibrated it). My Proto was dead on as was my dial recording one which I use on rear ends. The guys at the local speed shop who are machining my engine block gave me their expensive-as-hell Snap-On torque wrenches to check out. One was light by 3# at 50#, pretty close at 100#, and 3# heavy at 150#. The other was 3# heavy at 50#, 6# heavy at 100, and 9# heavy at 150#. These wrenches had been calibrated by Snap-On within the year.

Anyway, this is one reason that I am assemble my own shortblocks and using a stretch gauge on my rod bolts.