Oiling, Accusump, Filter relocation, and coolers

I'm not completely sure if this is "advanced" enough, but I'll give it a shot.

I want to install a better oil cooling system with possible filter relocation, and also add in an Accusump. I already have the accusump, but want to order the other oiling equipment prior to install, but am not completely sure which components I should go with. This is for my LT1.


TIA,

________________
Rob
1994 Firehawk#319 (http://www.robshawk.com)
11.83@120.61
Slightly Modified (http://www.RobsHawk.com/MODLIST.txt)
1996 Blown V6 (http://www.RobsHawk.com/Jana/Camaro/)
2002 Trailblazer (http://www.RobsHawk.com/Trailblazer/TrailblazerSm1.jpg)
San Diego F-Bodies (http://www.SDFB.org)
"Garp bit Bonky."

Is this a high-reving engine? If so, how high (7000? 8000 via aftermarket computer? etc...)

Are the tolerances in your engine stock? or is this a loose-fit motor with low-tension rings?

Obviously there's a few poines to be foudn with a dry-sump, but the packaging is pretty tight for something like that... and it'll cost about 3 G's to do it right.

Next step down is an Accusump and relocated oil filter, both are nice if the stock filter is cuddling header tubes and you expect any hard cornering/braking.


If you go with solid roller lifters you "could" put in oil restrictors to ensure the wet sump stays covered and the cam/main bearings get some good volume.


Only thing is... why do you need to improve it? The SBC has one of the most bullet-proof oiling systems ever put in a car.

My personal goals regarding oiling on my 383 build-up is this:
- crank scraper
- windage tray
- stock volume/pressure SBC pump (blueprinted probably)
- radius'd oil passages
- Accusump

I've thought of smoothing out the oil drain holes from the heads, but it may be better just to leave that alone (heat draw and all) I dunno. I may go with a remote oil filter (like a System1), but I dunno if I can find a good place for it.

Thanks Steve. Little more info:

It's a fairly decently built 355 LT1 with 12:1 compression, Lingenfelter grind of a CC306, so rev range is a liveable 6600 rpms. I want to start open tracking with this car on a regular basis, so I want to take as many precautions as possible to make the engine live. I should see corning forces hopefully as high as 1.2 g's. The build up is within normal tolerances upon a rebuild, not too loose, or too tight, no low tension rings. I will be adding better flowing heads and intake with some Long Tube headers and fear that they may "hug" the oil filter a bit.

I already have the older Canton oil pan, as well as a high volume oil pump and Canton "swinging pickup". I also like the thought of being able to pre-oil the engine upon startup.

Sounds like a good candidate for a filter relocation and an Accusump.

If you will be road racing this car an oil-cooler may be nessesary (as is a power-steering cooler). Just make sure that while it can get some air where it's mounted AND doesn't risk being torn off. I only say it because I know someone it happened to. He mis read a turn, spun into some blackberry bushes (ouch), and torn off the oil cooler... draining the engine. :)

BTW, if you're looking for an oil adapter that will give you the ability for an oil cooler/accusump/remote filter you may want to stop by a GM dealership. :) The vettes and several F-body LT1's came with the optional oil-cooler, and as a result there is a GM part number for the adapter with line outs/in.

I imagine this is one of the reasons the vettes have to use PF25 instead of the longer PF35 filters F-bodies are used to (filter hangs farther down due to the larger oil filter adapter).

Maybe someone here will post a GM part number. :)

Originally posted by Steve in Seattle
BTW, if you're looking for an oil adapter that will give you the ability for an oil cooler/accusump/remote filter you may want to stop by a GM dealership. :) The vettes and several F-body LT1's came with the optional oil-cooler, and as a result there is a GM part number for the adapter with line outs/in.

I imagine this is one of the reasons the vettes have to use PF25 instead of the longer PF35 filters F-bodies are used to (filter hangs farther down due to the larger oil filter adapter).

Maybe someone here will post a GM part number. :)

Well, my Hawk came with the water to oil, oil cooling system, but I want better, and I've heard that, that system can get clogged up over time.

Thanks Brook, i was looking at those too, just not sure which ones I should go with.

Originally posted by Steve in Seattle
BTW, if you're looking for an oil adapter that will give you the ability for an oil cooler/accusump/remote filter you may want to stop by a GM dealership. :) The vettes and several F-body LT1's came with the optional oil-cooler, and as a result there is a GM part number for the adapter with line outs/in.

I imagine this is one of the reasons the vettes have to use PF25 instead of the longer PF35 filters F-bodies are used to (filter hangs farther down due to the larger oil filter adapter).

Maybe someone here will post a GM part number. :)

I looked at this as my replacement LT1 (from a same year wrecked Z28) had it, and my TA's LT1 did not. I was thinking the same thing, but found that the GM setup is an oil/water unit, and the "cooling" uses heated coolant, which of course puts more of a load on the radiator. There is no practical way to convert this to an oil/air unit, especially when you can buy a sandwich adapter as mentioned above. I'm going to try one of these from Earls that has a built in thermostat with -10 AN fittings. I run an oilstat- (external in line thermostat) on my other cars with oil/air coolers and it seems to work well.

I'm trying to work out where I should put my B&M Supercooloer for airflow along with my ATI 2 core intercooler on the 1995 TA.