Achilles97
03-18-2004, 01:36 AM
My car has 72k miles and was on the stock suspension. I installed coilovers with Eibach springs rated at 450 lbs in the front and 175 in the rear. The shocks are Bilstein Heavy Duty.
It took me two days to remove the stock springs/shocks and install Eibach coilovers and Bilstein HD shocks. A few hours were used to adjust the height to where I wanted it. It would have only taken one full day but I didn't have all the necessary tools when I began and I wasn't familiar with suspensions.
If anyone wants to do this job, make sure you have:
- a floor jack
- another jack (spare tire jack)
- jack stands
- sockets and wrenches in standard AND metric (LARGE, at least 7/8")
- Torx 50 bit :rolleyes:
- hammer and rubber mallet
- spring compressor
- Liquid Wrench or equivalent
The rear was easy. It should taken about 2 hours. I didn't have a socket that would fit onto the lower shock bolt so I had to use a wrench but the wrench would only turn about an inch before it hit the ground, so I dug a hole into the pavement to allow me to swing the wrench. When I put in the new shocks, the new bolt/nut was larger so I gave up and walked to a hardware store and bought a socket for it.
The front was more difficult. I didn't realize that I would need a Torx 50 bit to remove 2 of the 4 upper shock mount bolts, so I had to walk back to the hardware store. They only had a 7-piece set of Torx bits and it was about $25. Later, I found a larger set at Autozone for $10. :irk:
You do not have to separate the lower ball joint or the stearing arm. Just remove the brake caliper/rotor, remove the lower shock bolts, disconnect the sway bar, and disconnect the upper A-arm joint. I had a hard time disconnecting the upper A-arm joint, I tried a c-clamp, pickle fork, but I was finally successful when I used anger :mad: and hit (hard) the bolt with a hammer. Use the spare jack to brace the control arm so it is supported from underneath. The jack is useful to lower and raise the assembly to make it easier to reconnect everything.
The spring compressor tool was not as scary as I imagined. Just use common sense and you should be fine.
Anyway, I am happy that I did it. It feels like a new car. When I hit a bump, it's just *bump* and then it's over with. Even though the springs/shocks are a lot stiffer, it seems like I have less rattles because the suspension is absorbing the road better. Before, hitting a bump was a longer process of sloppy bouncing. The car feels more controlled now. Turning is a lot more stable, the car stays flat and I don't lose as much traction in a turn when hitting bumps. Braking feels better too because the car doesn't nose-dive.
To anyone who was unsure if this job was possible - it is. It's not too difficult, you just need the right tools and decent instructions. For me, the results were worth it.
Next will be subframe connectors.
It took me two days to remove the stock springs/shocks and install Eibach coilovers and Bilstein HD shocks. A few hours were used to adjust the height to where I wanted it. It would have only taken one full day but I didn't have all the necessary tools when I began and I wasn't familiar with suspensions.
If anyone wants to do this job, make sure you have:
- a floor jack
- another jack (spare tire jack)
- jack stands
- sockets and wrenches in standard AND metric (LARGE, at least 7/8")
- Torx 50 bit :rolleyes:
- hammer and rubber mallet
- spring compressor
- Liquid Wrench or equivalent
The rear was easy. It should taken about 2 hours. I didn't have a socket that would fit onto the lower shock bolt so I had to use a wrench but the wrench would only turn about an inch before it hit the ground, so I dug a hole into the pavement to allow me to swing the wrench. When I put in the new shocks, the new bolt/nut was larger so I gave up and walked to a hardware store and bought a socket for it.
The front was more difficult. I didn't realize that I would need a Torx 50 bit to remove 2 of the 4 upper shock mount bolts, so I had to walk back to the hardware store. They only had a 7-piece set of Torx bits and it was about $25. Later, I found a larger set at Autozone for $10. :irk:
You do not have to separate the lower ball joint or the stearing arm. Just remove the brake caliper/rotor, remove the lower shock bolts, disconnect the sway bar, and disconnect the upper A-arm joint. I had a hard time disconnecting the upper A-arm joint, I tried a c-clamp, pickle fork, but I was finally successful when I used anger :mad: and hit (hard) the bolt with a hammer. Use the spare jack to brace the control arm so it is supported from underneath. The jack is useful to lower and raise the assembly to make it easier to reconnect everything.
The spring compressor tool was not as scary as I imagined. Just use common sense and you should be fine.
Anyway, I am happy that I did it. It feels like a new car. When I hit a bump, it's just *bump* and then it's over with. Even though the springs/shocks are a lot stiffer, it seems like I have less rattles because the suspension is absorbing the road better. Before, hitting a bump was a longer process of sloppy bouncing. The car feels more controlled now. Turning is a lot more stable, the car stays flat and I don't lose as much traction in a turn when hitting bumps. Braking feels better too because the car doesn't nose-dive.
To anyone who was unsure if this job was possible - it is. It's not too difficult, you just need the right tools and decent instructions. For me, the results were worth it.
Next will be subframe connectors.