Who's removed their ABS system?

Has anyone removed their ABS system?

I'm considering doing it as it's in the way of my supercharger tubing.

I'm still driving the car on the street about 5-6K a year, it should see alot of track duty this year as I've sorted out all my other isses.

Just curious how to reconnect the lines, there looks like one big line goes to the rear brakes and there are two smaller lines coming off the ABS unit that go to the front brakes.

Marc

Sig :).

Driven it daily with no ABS for the past 6 months (10k miles).

You can get the fittings from Napa minus the proportioning valve (I'm using the Wilwood).

You'll need (1) "T" fitting and (3) 3/16" fittings to connect the front brakes (into the "T" fitting). And you'll need (1) more 3/16" and (1) 1/4" fitting to connect the master cylinder to proportioning valve to the rear line. (I might be a little off on the size of the rear line). Use the yellow teflon tape on these fittings, and the blue/red aren't as buff (can disintegrate - not good).

A proportioning valve was recomended to me by most everyone, but I ended up screwing it all the way "down" (full pressure).

Total cost was about 50 bucks including the proportioning valve ($40). However, it took me several trips to the store to pick up fittings after I did something careless. My advice: buy extra fittings :).

Master cylinder: The line closest to the firewall goes to the front brakes, and the line furthest goes to the rear brakes.

Ryan

yeah what he said :)

Marc: I just updated my sig with a pic:

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/532000-532999/532676_13_full.jpg

Not a very clean install. It will get much cleaner after the manual master cylinder goes in and I have a chance to prebend everything :cool:.

Hope this helps,
Ryan

Ryan,
Hello, thanks;)

Just what I was looking for.

Where did you get the proportioning valve? Do you have a part number? (never looked at buying one)

Surgery will commence next weekend as I leave for a business trip down to the sunny Dominican Republic today. Yes, it is a ****hole but the local beer (Presidente's) are allways served extremely cold :D

Thanks again,
Marc

Marc: This is what I have:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WIL%2D260%2D2220

Summit part number WIL-260-2220.

Have fun in the Dominican Republic :cool:.

Ryan

Ryan,
Hello, perfect.
I'll be ordering on of those this week.

It is real nice weather down here, there were some snow flurries in Boston when I left and the plane had to be de-iced in NY before we left and then I get here and roast my balls of when I get off the plane.

Going to a titty bar tonight :D

Marc

I'm highly leaning towards removing my ABS. First, have you fellas experienced premature wear on brake pads. My ride is not daily but I plan on using it daily during the spring and summer. Thanks for any info

Johnny

So I'm assuming stock lines are 3/16" Aren't the fittings on the Master cylinder Metric? I too will be doing this soon, I have already cut the lines to the ABS and removed it.

Bill

Originally posted by SMOKNZ
So I'm assuming stock lines are 3/16" Aren't the fittings on the Master cylinder Metric? I too will be doing this soon, I have already cut the lines to the ABS and removed it.

Bill

Bill: I didn't unbolt the master cylinder fittings. I tried to unscrew the fittings from the ABS unit but stripped the first two. Out with the pipe cutter after that...

The install would have been MUCH cleaner had I been able to rebend the lines from the master. I'm waiting for the manual master cylinder before I try to get pretty.

btw...Yes, the lines are 3/16".

Ryan

Yeah, I tried as well to get out the lines from the ABS unit. I just used a side cutters and made quick work of the lines. I think I may just pick up the fittings from the auto parts store. I already have a double flare tool.

Originally posted by SMOKNZ
Yeah, I tried as well to get out the lines from the ABS unit. I just used a side cutters and made quick work of the lines. I think I may just pick up the fittings from the auto parts store. I already have a double flare tool.

This is a good thread. I think my abs unit will be coming out too. :)

I've never had any luck getting my double flare tool to work. It always tends to split the edges on the second flare. :think:

Guess I'll have to try it again soon. :)

Mike

FWIW,

My flaring tool didn't double flare them so hot, so I basically ended up single flaring the lines. No problems after 10k miles of use.

I orignally yanked mine to make room for my 4" CAI.
Ryan

Took mine out to make room for the S/C intake plumbing and it's one of my better mods. I really like the way the brakes feel now. Probably cause I'm an old guy and never liked the mushy ABS feel... :)

Here's how it looks with line lock plumbing...

http://www.webpeak.com/~tony/bluez/side.jpg

Anyone one else have the manual master cylinder? I'd like to see some more setups...I do like you setup with the line lock TonyJ.

nevermind, I got rid of the brake booster, abs, everything. i dont really care for the whole setup on our cars anyway :D

I'm runnin a manual mc, no booster (duh), new lines, line lock, blah blah blah...all the other cool goodies.

What is the difference between a master cylinder with or without the booster? I have heard of people having problems producing enough vacuum and having problems with there brakes.

Good thread guys. This is on my list of "things to do".

TonyJ, how much did that Summit valve run you?

smoknta- the main reason for switching from a vacuum assisted mc to a manual it just what you said. A vacuum assisted one will not rob horse power, but if you have engine mods that limit your vacuum then you may have brake problems. The easiest solution is to change out the mc for a manual one and never worry about stopping again.

SUM-G3905 - Summit Brake Proportioning Valve - $39.99
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bykeyword&searchtype=both&part=proportioning

SUM-760000 - Summit Line Lock Kit - $89.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D760000

These go on sale ocasionally because they are Summit-branded. Those are current prices. I don't remember what I paid.

TJ

Thanks I just found it there myself. I have to make a deposit to Summit in the near future anyway so I will probably add that to the list. I already a lock, I'm just going to put the car on a major diet and toss out anything that isnt used for racing.

Originally posted by Projectz28


smoknta- the main reason for switching from a vacuum assisted mc to a manual it just what you said. A vacuum assisted one will not rob horse power, but if you have engine mods that limit your vacuum then you may have brake problems. The easiest solution is to change out the mc for a manual one and never worry about stopping again.

exactly...sorry it took my awhile top respond back. but you should look into doing the manual mc if your dieting the car. its not that hard, just time consuming.


what kinda cam u runin'?

Im running a CC305 (220/230). I have no problems with vacuum. As the car sits it will still pull 16" vacuum. I know its time consuming to convert, and I will be honest I am not oposed to switching to a manual mc. But for the time being I am just going to ditch the ABS. I dont have a bar yet... so untill that goes in everything has to stay in the car. After that I can start dumping stuff I dont need.

It's really unreal how much space it opens up when you remove the ABS. It starts to look like an old-school engine compartment, where you can just reach in and do plugs. The PA k-member had the same effect. They spoiled me so much I was tempted to remove the A/C to make it as open on the other side...

But, since mine is still a street car, I came to my senses. Don't believe what everyone says about Boulder summers being nice and cool... :eek:

It was tempting, though...

Originally posted by TonyJ
It's really unreal how much space it opens up when you remove the ABS. It starts to look like an old-school engine compartment, where you can just reach in and do plugs. The PA k-member had the same effect. They spoiled me so much I was tempted to remove the A/C to make it as open on the other side...

But, since mine is still a street car, I came to my senses. Don't believe what everyone says about Boulder summers being nice and cool... :eek:

It was tempting, though...

These cars have much more room once you get rid of the stuff you can live without. Relocate the radiator forward and you'll have even more room (in the front).

You're right - weight reduction is very addictive...

Ryan

How'd you move the radiator forward? Do you have any pics? With my Cog setup I have zero room up front and it make belt changes a bit<h... Stock radiator or Becool? Damn... Don't tease me! :eek:

Originally posted by TonyJ
How'd you move the radiator forward? Do you have any pics? With my Cog setup I have zero room up front and it make belt changes a bit<h... Stock radiator or Becool? Damn... Don't tease me! :eek:

You'd probably have to ditch the a/c because of the condensor. You can cut the frame rail crossover and inch it forward. Here's a couple pics:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/99366077/99366532ByCBmY

http://community.webshots.com/photo/99348773/99350053BOJbHh

You could also use a "push" fan setup over the stock "pull" type. Lots of room to gain :).

btw - very nice ride :).

Hope this helps,
Ryan

Holy snikies, batman! That's the first time I've seen yours...

:bow: Wow! :bow:

I see in the second pic you fabbed a brace for the frame rail. That would be my only real concern... Damn another reason for losing the A/C... :(

That looks like a becool in yours. Is it the 4th gen/no tranny cooler version?

Thanks, TJ

Oops, just noticed the tt big block isn 't yours... I'm looking through the other pics there now. Some really nice rides!

That's quite a FI setup on yours.

Not my rides...I wish they were - at least one of them :D.

That is Brady McNew's (Brady96z) big block Z28, and Matt Harlan's twin turbo Firehawk.

My car can't roll on the same parking lot as those two :).

Ryan

Man, that Southern Shootout looks like a blast! I've got to try to make it down there this year and check out some of those cars. It's gotta be like a bunch of doctors going to a Frankenstein convention...

Originally posted by TonyJ
Man, that Southern Shootout looks like a blast! I've got to try to make it down there this year and check out some of those cars. It's gotta be like a bunch of doctors going to a Frankenstein convention...

LOL!

Yes, it totally rocked. Met tons of really cool people. A couple of fast cars too :). I'll be there again this year!

Ryan

Maybe we'll get a chance to meet there. I was looking at the photo site those pics are on and there's a really neat alt relocation bracket. You don't happen to know who makes them do you? I did a search and found another one being developed that puts it on the driver's side, right where my D1SC sits. Doh...

I'd love to get that fugly stock bracket and the alternator out of the way...

Found it. It requires removing A/C too... aagghhh...

http://www.speedspecialty.com/store/view_product.php?product=lt1altbracket

We're a little offtopic, but no big deal :).

I'm using the madman alt bracket, but you can't keep power steering.

At this point it gets to be a big trade off. If you want more room, you gotta give up a bit :(.

Good luck!
Ryan

Originally posted by 96-speed
These cars have much more room once you get rid of the stuff you can live without. Relocate the radiator forward and you'll have even more room (in the front).

You're right - weight reduction is very addictive...

Ryan


Hmmmm...I was looking into relocating the rad forward but I didnt think it could be done very easy. After looking at those pics though, peace of cake! I'm still debating on droppin my 468 BB in there. I've spent too much money on the LT1 too change my mind though.

Yes, once you get rid of the AC...you WILL see a BIG difference. The very first thing I did was ditch the AIR, then AC, now ABS and booster; it will be a nioce clean looking bay. I just need to make a custom plate so I can get rid of the heater and that box too.

is it still just as easy to drive on the street with a manual brakes no booster? i drive alot on the roads but the booster gets in the way though thanks guys any pics with it gone

Originally posted by FLIPPINZ28
is it still just as easy to drive on the street with a manual brakes no booster? i drive alot on the roads but the booster gets in the way though thanks guys any pics with it gone

On an LS1:

http://billingsleyracing.biz/Brakes1.jpg

Ryan

Man, that's clean. The guy even deleted his steering... :eek:

Yeah it pretty clean, strange mc, line lock but it looks like theres a proportioning valve or something attached to it? Looks like a weird setup...

hey 96-speed where can i get a setup like that one the manual stuff. affect street driving any? thanks

Originally posted by LT1 Bunny
Yeah it pretty clean, strange mc, line lock but it looks like theres a proportioning valve or something attached to it? Looks like a weird setup...

That's a non-overpriced linelock solenoid ;).

Flippin: No personal experience yet. Mine won't be back on the road for a few more weeks...

Ryan

Originally posted by FLIPPINZ28
hey 96-speed where can i get a setup like that one the manual stuff. affect street driving any? thanks



you do know that you are going to have to modify your spindles right? i seriously think you should drive a car with manual brakes BEFORE you do this to you camaro....you might freak out when you step on the brakes and find out you dont like the feel of the peddle and step on it harder and lock the brakes up :) . Then you'll have flat spotting on your tires...just make sure you know what your getting into!

there are a bunch of places you can go too. unfortunately i cant remember a single one with the exception of billingsley. pick up a chevy high tech...not GMHTP. Theres a few ads about custom brake setups. ill post them later when i get back home.

also this is off topic, this months CHEVY HIGH TECH has a lot of great info on cams, how to build a stronger 10 bolt, and all about t56s. nice info.

TonyJ: The way my setup up is right now, I have the alt on the bottom. But then again, I have no ac, no ps, so all i need is a belt for the crank running to the alt. But in your case you'd need a slighty larger one for the d1sc IF you got rid of ps and ac.

thanks lt1 bunny i wont do it then talked to my buddy i have had ankle surgery on my right foot and need all the power i can for the brakes thanks though but i am getting rid of the abs unit

Originally posted by LT1 Bunny
TonyJ: The way my setup up is right now, I have the alt on the bottom. But then again, I have no ac, no ps, so all i need is a belt for the crank running to the alt. But in your case you'd need a slighty larger one for the d1sc IF you got rid of ps and ac.

I think I'm going to modify the bracket to run the alt and ps below. There is a fellow here who sells the bracket. It's a little pricey at $200 and does require a different belt, but its a clean install. I'll either do my own or buy it, depending on my mood. I run the S/C off a seperate cog drive, so it's not a factor.

Originally posted by FLIPPINZ28
thanks lt1 bunny i wont do it then talked to my buddy i have had ankle surgery on my right foot and need all the power i can for the brakes thanks though but i am getting rid of the abs unit

Hey no problem flippin, i think you'll still like the fact that youve gotten rid of ABS as well. ive seen on a couple of threads the peddle still feels different when removing ABS...I dont see how that possible when you still have the booster.

Originally posted by TonyJ
I think I'm going to modify the bracket to run the alt and ps below. There is a fellow here who sells the bracket. It's a little pricey at $200 and does require a different belt, but its a clean install. I'll either do my own or buy it, depending on my mood. I run the S/C off a seperate cog drive, so it's not a factor.

you wouldnt happen to have a picture of your cog setup would you?:D I'm interested to see how you set this up. I think you would really benefit from moving your rad up towards the front of the car some more...it does look like a close fit in your other pic. i'm thinking about doing it just to have some more room. but i want to run a BeCool as well (at least i think i do :) )

I'll try to get some new pics this weekend. The car will be up on a lift to get the new Art Carr tranny installed. I'm pondering the whole a/c remove mod. In the next week or so I'll make a decision. If I do, it will allow me to do a bunch of cool things. It just won't be so cool this summer in traffic. (At least not for the driver...) :(

Originally posted by TonyJ
I'll try to get some new pics this weekend. The car will be up on a lift to get the new Art Carr tranny installed. I'm pondering the whole a/c remove mod. In the next week or so I'll make a decision. If I do, it will allow me to do a bunch of cool things. It just won't be so cool this summer in traffic. (At least not for the driver...) :(

:D I hear ya, I removed the AC last year and have little fans hangin on the visors...yeah, I know thats ghetto. If you have ttops, its really not that bad. Stopping at a traffic light though, thats the WORST!

Hey, see if you can find any info on moving the rad up...I'm still looking and I cant find anything. I seriously am going to do this but I just want to see how everyone else did it. It's probably too easy, thats why I cant find anything.

I know this thread is a little old, but I just want to say thanks to everyone that put info in on it :) I removed the abs ?module? today and it cleaned up the engine compartment even more than I thought it would, and I only made one trip to the auto parts store.
Now I have a nice place to mount the nitrous/fuel solenoids.....
It also gave me some ideas on a nice new air intake :D

:thumb:

I removed my ABS too when I got bored...

http://ieng9.ucsd.edu/~ahartoun/engine2.JPG

I removed my ABS too when I got bored...

http://ieng9.ucsd.edu/~ahartoun/engine2.JPG



NICE!!! ;)

NICE!!! ;)

DITTO!! :)

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/270000-270999/270694_199_full.jpg

will this still work without the proportioning valve?

will this still work without the proportioning valve?


I did not use a porportioning valve at all and mine feel great!


They all lock up at the same time :)

where did you find the 3/16 to 1/4 flare fitting for the rear brake line?

I bought a 1/4" flare to 1/8 NPT fitting and just flared the rear line and plugged it right into the proportioning valve. Any auto parts store should carry these.

i tried the local autoparts store and they didnt have anything so i hit up murreys and found everything there. ill be start it tomarrow.

Pretty nice setups any more pics? I'm getting ready to do this soon.

-Dustin-