Jason Dove
02-24-2004, 02:37 AM
Hey guys, I think my Moser 12 bolt is about to bite it. Looks like the pinion seal is leaking, the car is vibrating and it makes nasty noises.
Anyone know a 'good' place to take it to. I think my gears are still good, just the bearings/seals are shot.
Rybar
02-24-2004, 02:51 AM
I took my Strange to Tyler at Rear-End specialties in Langley. Good, honest guy to deal with. :thumb:
Unlike those losers at IWE. :mad:
talos
02-24-2004, 02:53 AM
what type of work do they do? anything and everything?
TyphoonZR
02-24-2004, 07:45 PM
Jason, my guess is that the guys who installed your gears did not put lock tight on the yoke nut! If you are a handy man, jack your car up, secure it, then see if you can move the rear end yoke forward and backward a bit, if so, you will have to tighten the nut with lock tight and it should also be checked for correct tention. All this should be a relatively cheap fix, like 50 bucks!
Jason Dove
02-25-2004, 02:50 AM
K, I'll take a look. I planned on taking it to Mike's place and lifting it up to check. My apartment is really anal about jacking cars in the lot.
Moser built the rear, so I would have hoped they would have used lock-tight on it, but you never know.
TyphoonZR
02-25-2004, 11:19 AM
Jason, let me put it in another way. Even if the installer had used lock tight, as hp goes up, and especially if you have a standard transmission, the bolts have a way of working themselves loose.
This happened to my son's car in which he had a t-56 and the installer said he had used lock tight. But as a driver goes on and then off the gas repeatedly, the bolts start their action and once in a while, it is a good thing to just check the big nut i the center of the rear end yoke, a 5 minute job to check it. If the car is on the hoist having an oil change, just go to the back, grab the drive shaft and try and work it back and forth, not left and right. If there is more than a 1/16 inch travel, you got problems.
Mikey 97Z M6
02-25-2004, 03:02 PM
Some guys even go so far as to tack weld the nut to the pinion after the pinion depth has been set. Works much better than thread lock. Nothing will waste a pinion gear/bearing faster than having that nut come loose and applying some good power to it. :thumb:
Mike
95wagon
02-25-2004, 03:32 PM
You might want to consider a solid pinion spacer with shims and lose the crush sleeve.
Look at the right lower of the page on the following link.
Ratech (http://shop.store.yahoo.com/ratech/12bogmaxau.html)
Jason Dove
02-25-2004, 03:42 PM
Thanks wagon, I used to run the RaTech spacer with my 10 bolt. Good unit. :)