Mitsu 3000GTO TT kill

Well I finally got a kill today, man its been so long.

Well I was going down Rawson ave in my city which is South Milwaukee, WI when I noticed a friend of mine from high school who got a Red Mitsubishi 3000 GTO Twin Turbo in other words like a VR4 on a trade-in.

Well I reved on him to let him know I was game to race but I figured he wouldnt cause he was working on it, well the next thing I knew he was right behind me and wanted a piece of me.

We screw around for a bit till I went on a 2 lane highway (I-794), I dropped it into 2nd and gave him the three honks and we were off and he was next to me but when 3rd came it was all over for him, I got a bus length on him.
So we catch a light and I knew he was gonna get the jumped since hes got AWD in which he did but i just reeled him in like he was going in reverse and put 3 cars on him (my car must of thought it was an LS1 but White Thunder doesnt know its not) So I see he was having problems with his car so i had him follow me.

We chatted and I saw what his mods were and he just got a BOV and juiced up the boost to 15 psi, so I gave him some tips like take off the BOV cause it reduces performance, get larger turbos, adjust the PCM (rev limiter) and get a new fuel pump. Then I told him what was bad about these cars which were AWD sucks at top end, and the tranny sucks and how they have to get replaced alot, them kinda things.

After that we went our sepreat ways but I have a shot at my other friends which is his friends Neon SRT-4 oh im gonna love it when i get Nittos 555R's, plus ill have more mods.
:cool:

Not sure what that guy was running/ or how fast he was, but a good running/ well driven stock vr4 manual should have ran right w/ ya..good kill

The BOV is required unless you like to buy new turbos ever 10k miles, and it certainly doesn't reduce performance. The stock plastic crap BOV must be replaced before any other mods. He doesn't need larger turbos until he wants to see 11s. Nobody will work on the computer for less than $1000. Besides, you don't need more than the 7500 rpm it'll already let you have.

If the tranny sucks, somebody didn't tell my car. It's 10 years old and doing fine. It's got plenty of 1.7x 60 ft runs on it too. My 92 was fine till I pulled out in front of a Town Car :)

I love the reputation that AWD sucks on the top end. I guess that's why I have such a poor top end pull. I mean jeeze, only 109 mph from a car with a stock cat-back, stock turbos, stock fuel pump, etc.

Your friend's car is a 3000GT VR4. If it says GTO, somebody added the stickers (usually use them from the stock "3000GT")

I took a friend's bone stock 93 twin turbo with 130k miles, put on a manual boost controller @ 14 psi, and it ran 13.2 @ 103 with absolutely everything else stock.

Sounds like that car needs some TLC to get into proper shape. There are plenty of 3Si members in your area. Have him check out the site at 3si.org. My website also spells out the few mods I've done to get where I am; it can be duplicated pretty cheaply.

Above all, be sure to visit http://www.w3si.org - Wisconsin chapter

I was looking at a few VR4's before the Z28 came along but every car i test drove had a bad tranny or the tranny was going so its from my experience that i gave them a bad name.
How ever I forgot to metion that his car was popping alot like he was hitting the rev limiter or the timing was off but i could only hear it faintly cause of my exhaust.

I had a friend that had a MOPAR 88 or 89 daytona CS turbo that ran 13's with stock turbo w/o the BOV and the he installed the BOV and his time went to high 14's and he a really good driver but what he told me was that BOV was killing his times that got me thinking that they were bad, but every car is diffrent.

The transmissions are strong but the syncros are picky. They don't forgive speed shifting or lax maintainance schedules. People are shocked when they see the $5k transmission pricetag at the dealership or $2100 rebuild cost so they dump the car quickly. It could easily be prevented by sane driving & lube changes every 20k miles or so. You can shift quickly without shifting abusively.

An improperly configured BOV can hurt power. Turbo cars of the 80s, like the Chrysler and Buick cars, didn't have them. That's one of the reasons they had turbo failures more often than today's models and gave turbos a bad reliability rep. The Daytona was probably stumbling each time the BOV vented. Routing the discharge back into the intake would probably fix it. Adding a BOV to impress people is silly. Adding one properly will reduce turbo lag between shifts and prolong turbo life by preventing compressor surge. Without a BOV, the turbo has to go from 100,000 rpm to a stop in an instant each time the throttle plate closes. With a BOV, the air is vented and the turbo can spin to a stop on its own, or continue spooling if you go WOT again.

Your friend's VR4 needs new plug wires (stock or NGK - $70) and NGK #3330, BCPR7ES plugs, gapped at .028. That is vital for raised boost. Then it'll drive fine. While he's at it I'd suggest replacing the o-ring on the rear turbo's output. It's cheap, but dealer only. The original ones always leak after so many years.