Newbie to suspension side of things. Need list of parts and what order to get them.

Currently I dont have anything to help for traction or handling, only thing is the STB, if that counts and a set of Mac lowering springs. I would like a list of which mod to do and in the order I should do them. I dont road race but would like the car to handle better than stock.

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1993 Purple Pearl M6 Z28
Jackstand Queen
Pic 1 (http://pages.prodigy.net/barbarayoung1/_uimages/Untitled-7.jpg) Pic 2 (http://pages.prodigy.net/barbarayoung1/_uimages/Untitled-4.jpg) Pic 3 (http://pages.prodigy.net/barbarayoung1/_uimages/Untitled-6.jpg)
Nu-Tek built forged 396, Pro Performance heads, F.A.S.T, Street Twin, CCXE 236/242, Hooker LT's, True Duals, Comp R Lifters, Pro Magnum 1.6 RR's, Arizona Speed and Marine 58mm TB, Accel 300+, Moroso CAI, Pro 5.0, 36# SVO Injectors. It'll run someday.

Future Mods: 12 Bolt and 200 Wet Shot.

The STB and springs are a good start. Subframe connectors will help very much, stiffins the chassis so everything else can work better. Also larger sway bars can help alot also.

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95 Z28, SLP Y pipe, Flowmaster muffler, SFC, STB, KYB shocks, Moroso CAI, 1LE front anti roll bar, Hurst shifter, TBB, LT4 KM, LG Motorsports pedals

I agree, subframe connectors are the best move.
All the suspension mods in the world are useless if your chassis is moving.
After SFC's I would say that a set of LCA brackets are the next best move, if you have the $$ replace the LCA's with Tubular units with Spherical bearings in the ends (NOT POLY).

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1971 Camaro
12" brakes
16x10" wheels
VSE swaybars
350 / M21
Autocross Competitive
'83 FSP GTI (driver)
Administrator; 2nd Generaton Camaro Owners Group (2GCOG)
www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/2gcog.html (http://www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/2gcog.html)
Sales / Tech
"The Speed Merchant" - San Jose, CA
http://www.speedmerchant.com/

The SFC commend above is very true. Also, your TIRES are the most important part of the suspension. They are your contact with the road and it all boils down to if they grip or not. The Suspension will try to keep them there, but if they dont hold well to begin with, then your not going to get much of an improvement. I dont see anyting in your sig about tires, but I would recommend a 17x9.5" wheel. Most sold for the camaro are only 9" (and should really use a 265/40 tire, where the 9.5" fits the 275/40 tire better... both fit, but right rim does help). After the wheel/tire I found its then shocks. Even if they feel fine, at 30k there getting close to being spent. They wear a little every day and its very gradual and you wont notice until you put the new ones on. So I would do shocks next, unless you want to change springs, then do them together because they need to match rates.
Then I'd do swaybars.
After those, I found the Torque Arm to make a big difference. The harder you launch, the harder it plants the rear wheels into the pavement. I did the LCAs also, but I dont think they made as big of a difference. Panhard rod also if your doing a lot of turning will help the rear keep its alignment. Front A-Arms are great for turning (these are next and over due, should have done them right after the swaybars looking back at it...).

--Kevin

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'96 Z-28
78k Miles
Toyo RA1 275/45Z17, SLP Coated Headers, SLP Clutch and Flywheel, G2 Coilovers (Bilstein and Eibach), LS1 Driveshaft, G2 PowerPulley, G2 CAI, B&M Ripper, G2 Pedal Covers, TB Airfoil, Borla 3" catback, G2 Panhard Rod (adj. w/ rodends), G2 Subframe Connectors, G2 Enginebay Brace (4 point), G2 Swaybars, Poly Trans Mount, Driver & Passenger Sparco Evo2 Seats, Powerslot Rotors w/ PFC Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines, ACES SureShift2 Seq. Shift Light (http://www.aceserve.co.uk/nonframes/ss2.html), Spohn Torque arm, LCA(rod/poly) and relocation bracket, McEwen White Gauge Faces.
On order: Autopower 'race' rollbar, Spacro 5 point harness, McCord Power Plate cutout, LG Spoiler and stripe, and ScanMasterLT1
Just a few parts away from my ZR-28 :)