How many of you run 30 psi like recommended on the door?

I know it varies some from tire to tire, so I'm interested to see what kind of pressures you are all running in your tires on the street. Not what you run at the track.

With my Potenza RE730's 245/50-16's I had the pressure at about 33 cold and the rears about 32 cold. Pretty even tire wear.

I'm wondering what I'll have to keep my 275/40-17's at with the Goodyear GS-D3's on there.

Dan

I use the recommended 30 psi with Kumho Esctas 712s 245/50ZR-16 and I've had pretty even tire wear. They lasted a long time too.

I run about the 30-32 ps too on my 712's.. So far, its seems like hte pressure for good even wear on the street.

Before on on diff set of tires, I used to run more, especialy since I'd kil the outer parts of the tire... But then after an alignment change, front sway bar, and reduced overdriving the car, the lower psi gives good wear.



Originally posted by Grease
I use the recommended 30 psi with Kumho Esctas 712s 245/50ZR-16 and I've had pretty even tire wear. They lasted a long time too.

The last 3 sets of street tires I've owned were set at 34-35 front, 30-32 rear. The tires wore evenly across the tread, maybe just a touch more in the center but not enough to matter. I rotate frequently (well, during autocross season!) which helps the wear.

It's also going to depend on "how" you drive, what type of road, etc.

I run 32/30 in my GS-C's...... I think 35 gets too harsh and 30 is just too soft.

Thanks all.

Yeah, I'm also looking at an alignment, and that's going to play a part in wear too I suppose.

I'd like it a little more responsive, but I think I'm going to try the new tires first and see how I like it like it is first. Then I'll see if I need an alignment.

My tire wear is even on all four tires right now with my current alignment and I'm worried that if I went with something like +4.5 caster and -1 camber and straight toe that I might get some wear in the inside now that I have the larger 35mm bar on there to help control the camber.

So I'll see how I like the feel with the current alignment with the big bar and ZR1's and go from there. I don't autox so it's not a huge deal.

Thanks.
Dan

Tire pressure will make it a little more responsive, but also more harsh. What you are describing is something that I use shock rebound for. It really helps transient response. I know you have HD's, which is why I know it's lacking. :) This is where Revalves or Koni's come in.......

Some toe-out can help too. -1 camber isn't going to shread tires. DO IT! I have almost 31k on my original GS-C's with pretty much -1 camber (no quite on one side, and you likely won't get that much in an older car). And I run 3/32" toe-OUT too, which isn't nice to tires.

Thanks for the reply Sam.

Yeah, if I ever get the time to get the HD's off there, I might have them revalved. It was enough work putting them on after I bought them from you last year. :) They really have been decent for me though.

Will 3/32 toe out make the car want to dart? I do about 70% highway miles and don't want to constantly fight the wheels because they want to follow the grooves. I know it will help steering response, but at what cost?

Are there any drawbacks to increasing the caster to +4.5 or so? I guess I can't really think of any except more steering effort. I like the fact that I gain a little negative camber due to the large + caster though.

I think I'll shoot for -1 deg camber.

Dan

I got over 41k on my Re730's, thats with -2 camber, lots of toe-out, and a whole bunch of beat them up on the street. I'm not nice to street tires( i got 6k out of a set of Azenis on my MR2).
I rotate alot and have worn 3 of the 4 to cord on the inside edge. Pressure was set at 34 front and 31 rear.

Joe Silva

Originally posted by KSSS
I got over 41k on my Re730's, thats with -2 camber, lots of toe-out, and a whole bunch of beat them up on the street. I'm not nice to street tires( i got 6k out of a set of Azenis on my MR2).
I rotate alot and have worn 3 of the 4 to cord on the inside edge. Pressure was set at 34 front and 31 rear.

Joe Silva

I would never let my tires get to the cords since I only drive on the street, rain and dry.

The RE730's (gen 1) are what I'm replacing with the new tires and rims.

My RE730's are lasting too long! I've had them for 30,000 miles and they look like I could get at least another 10k out of them. I wanted to burn them up as fast as possible after they got so terribly noisy. I rotate often and the noise is still there.

Dan

I run about 34f/30r in my summer Firehawks, 255/50-16. I very rarely carry a full load of adults on the interstate, but I do pull my race tire&tool trailer regularly.

In the winter, I run 225/55-16 dedicated winter tires that are very sensitive to proper inflation. I never pull the race trailer in winter, so I run them at 34f/28r. I ran 30 in the rear the first winter, and the tires were wearing very quickly in the center.

The door ratings assume the full rated load of adults and luggage driving exclusively on the interstate, which just isn't very typical usage for these cars.

I'm an oddball (not news to some...).

I run my street tires at 41/36 and took the factory Eagle RSA's off at 30k (right rear was near the wear bar, fronts were slightly more worn on the inside than outside, but still not to the wear bars (may have gone another 8k or so).

My alignment settings are:

-1.3 camber
4.5 castor
1/32nd inch toe out

And my car has been lowered about 1.5 inches.

Have fun!