arp wheel studs

I am ordering some wheels that im gonna mount up and see what needs to be trimmed to make them fit and if I need spacers yada yada and if I need a spacer in the rear it was suggested I get arp wheel studs so I was wondering where I can pick some up, did a quick search, didnt have much time, and didnt come up with anything... thanks for any help!

I had to use longer wheel studs when I installed my Prospeed Big Brake kit.

These are the ones I used ...

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2932&prmenbr=361


.509'' Knurl; 12mm x 1.5 press-in stud features a .509'' knurl, will fit most late GM applications such as Camaro/Firebird and Corvette. 2.5'' long.

070-100-7708 .509'' Knurl Wheel Studs $11.99


They are the same length as stock, but the thread goes all the way to end.

Mitch, did you install the ARP wheel studs on the rear also? If so, how difficult of a job is that to do? The front would be easy I'm sure.

No, just the fronts.

To get at the rears, there is some sort of "plug" in the backing plate that will allow you to drive the old stud out and put the new one in.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the shoulder of the ARP stud is slightly thicker than the flange itself. So, when you are using a sacrificial lugnut to pull the studs through, the lugnut will bottom out on the shoulder before the head of the stud is flush with the backside of the flange. I used a couple of oversized washers to give me that gap I needed to pull the flange all the way through (thanks Glenn).

Originally posted by 94bird
Mitch, did you install the ARP wheel studs on the rear also? If so, how difficult of a job is that to do? The front would be easy I'm sure.

94 Bird, keep in mind the OE rear studs are designed similarly as the front ones: the threads don't go to the end of the stud.

Longer aftermarket studs (eg ARP) won't clear the body of the rear end housing to allow them to be inserted into the axel flange. You'd have to remove the axel from the rear end to do the replacement or that's the way it appeared.

This is what I did: I took 15 longer studs and cut them to the stock rear stud length. This way they can be inserted onto the axel flange w/o any mechanical work. Just pound out the originals and load the new ones. Although they have the same length as the OE ones, They are still better and meet my High Performance requirements. On these now shortened long bolts, the fact that the threads go to the end is the important point. The lug nut threads are all fully used and mated to stud threads. The extra studs were to allow quick change at the track in the event of breakage.

Steve

didnt understand the way you install the rear ones...?

Pound 'em out. Insert new ones.

When pounding 'em out they fall to floor. Insert new ones in the same place as old ones. Watch your feet if you're doing this job barefooted. :)

The reason the long ones don't fit is that the angle of insertion to clear the rear end housing won't allow the studs to go in.

This is a rear end on a '93 car. I don't know if this shortening procedure is necesssary for the '98-'02 cars. Its possible there was a cut out designed into the later model rear end housings to allow the long studs to fit. The shortening procedure is necessary on the earlier cars as the angle of insertion won't let the long ones clear. The studs have to be the OE length if this installation is to be done w/the axel in place in the rear end.

But remember, w/the shortened ARP bolts the threads go to the end of the bolt and it serves the needed purpose.


If I'm not making myself clear let me know. My wife accuses me of this frequently. Join the club.


Steve

Steve, I recall somewhere reading that if you remove a sensor or plug or something on the backing plate, the studs would slip right in.

That's what I was referring to ... no personal experience at it, just a sliver of memory.

Originally posted by mitchntx
Steve, I recall somewhere reading that if you remove a sensor or plug or something on the backing plate, the studs would slip right in.

That's what I was referring to ... no personal experience at it, just a sliver of memory.

That possibly could be a procedure to use on the '98-'02 cars. Don't know as I've not yet done this to my '02. Just the previous generation. There isn't a plug on this '93 rear end that I can notice. It does work fine except for the added step of cutting the nice new studs.

Steve

Since the ARP studs that Mitch used are the same length as stock couldn't I put them in without removing the axles?

Originally posted by 94bird
Since the ARP studs that Mitch used are the same length as stock couldn't I put them in without removing the axles?

Sounds like a winner. Wish I was aware of the stock length ones when I started this project.

But as I read your initial post again, it appears you're contemplating the use of spacers. That'd require longer studs to compensate for the greater distance the studs must cover. If that's the case and you do require longer studs, then you'll be faced w/the need to pull the axels to load the longer studs.

Anyone know of another way to insert studs longer than the OE ones?

Steve

The front studs on an F-Body are 1/4" longer then the rears. When I installed my 1/4" spacer in the rear I replaced all the rear studs with the front ones. There is just enough room to squeeze them in without pulling the axle.

I don't need spacers. Mitch needed them for his Prospeed brake kit. I'm more concerned with just how many wheels I've installed and removed off the stock rear wheel studs. I've replaced the fronts once by replacing hubs, but the rears are still original. It would also likely be a good idea to replace all 4 sets with stronger units since I'm punishing the car routinely in a way GM didn't design the studs for.

And the ARP studs are threaded all the way to the end. The stockers leave 3/8" on the end beveled, I guess to help schmoes at tire stores from cross threading.

So, with the same length stud, you get ~3/8" more thread engagement.

Do you use your same lug nuts then or have you switched styles?

A few random tidbits in no particular order:

- The backing plate on LS1 rear brakes is much larger than the LT1 part (due to the drum style parking brake). As such you might not have to remove the axles on an LT1.

- Don't be a wuss, pulling the axles is easy. Besides its a good excuse to change the diff fluid :)

- The stock rear wheel studs on LS1's are about 1/8" longer than LT1 rear studs. Presumably because the hats on LS1 rear rotors are a bit thicker than LT1 rotors.

Originally posted by 94bird
Do you use your same lug nuts then or have you switched styles?
Yes.

I also switch to new lugnuts every year or so.

Originally posted by Soma07
A few random tidbits in no particular order:


Good stuff ...

...so mitch I can use the stock length arp studs with a spacer, only about 1/4" at mos if I even use one, since the studs are threaded 3/8" further? Also why do you replace your lugnuts every year or so?

You can use the stock length ARP studs with a spacer because they are threaded all the way to the end OR use the front GM studs in thr rear (are you talking both front and rear or just the rear?) because they are 1/4" longer. Be careful about using studs that are too long because you'll bottom the lug out before it makes good contact with the wheel. Longer studs (if you're not using spacers) will require a deeper lug.

I use to strip my rear studs when I started using my 17x11 wheels with my 1/4" spacer. Once I installed the longer studs the problem went away.

If you frequently swap wheels, it's a good idea to replace the lugs every so often because the threads might have a tendancy to stretch.

Originally posted by mitchntx
One thing I forgot to mention is that the shoulder of the ARP stud is slightly thicker than the flange itself. So, when you are using a sacrificial lugnut to pull the studs through, the lugnut will bottom out on the shoulder before the head of the stud is flush with the backside of the flange. I used a couple of oversized washers to give me that gap I needed to pull the flange all the way through (thanks Glenn).

That's how I did it.

Yes Mike. With a 1/4" spacer, there was about 1/2 the lugnut worth of thread engagement. With the stud threaded all the way to the end, you should get full thread engagement of the lugnut.

I change lugs every year or so because of the muner of times I take off and replace tire/wheels.

I have been told (Neal B) that the procedure for replacing the rear studs depends on whether or not the car has ASR/TCS. What I was told is that ASR/TCS cars can replace the rear studs through an access hole in the axle, but that the cars without must pull the axles to replace them. That is not a big deal either.

Basically put the car on stands, and remove the wheels/tires and rear brake calipers/rotors (leave the lines attached). The put a pan under the rear axle, and remove all 10 bolts. Gently pry the cover off. Be careful as fluid will dump. Then remove the lone bolt in the center of the carrier, and slide both axles inwards. Remove both C-clips from the inside of the carrier. Pull both axles and replace the studs. Reverse for reassembly. If you have done a lot of autox/track events, it might be cheap insurance to replace the C-clips while you are in there.

On my '94 w/ no trac control, I installed the longer studs without pulling the axles.
I used a die grinder to cut a groove into the caliper bracket deep enough to allow installation of the studs.
You just rotate the axle up to the spot and slide in the new stud.

Originally posted by chuck
I have been told (Neal B) that the procedure for replacing the rear studs depends on whether or not the car has ASR/TCS. What I was told is that ASR/TCS cars can replace the rear studs through an access hole in the axle, but that the cars without must pull the axles to replace them. That is not a big deal either.

I just realized....I spent $450 to be able to change wheel studs. Actually, I spent $450 for TCS and $50 for the module from SLP to automatically turn it off. I guess it is the most expensive way to not have TCS....

I've been considering ARP studs and I need to adjust my E-brake. If I take it apart one day soon, I'll post what I find (if it looks like studs can be changed on a TCS car, mine is a 2002).

Originally posted by 1Z2Z
On my '94 w/ no trac control, I installed the longer studs without pulling the axles.
I used a die grinder to cut a groove into the caliper bracket deep enough to allow installation of the studs.
You just rotate the axle up to the spot and slide in the new stud.

Good work.
This is the best idea I've run across to allow the insertion of unmodified long studs. Once done its permanent and allows quick replacement at the track if needed.


Steve

As long as it is done in such a way that it avoids stress risers that could cause the caliper bracket to crack due to vibration and load. I'm not sure I like the thoughts of cutting notches in caliper brackets, but it may not be so bad (I've have to see one I guess).

Just a thought.

As far as I know, there's only one ARP part number for our cars, but apparently several different studs have been used by GM.

On my 2001, the stock studs were identical front and rear once I removed them. There was slightly more useable thread at one end or the other, but that was due to hub/brake differences, not the studs. The ARP's were about 1/2" longer than stock.

On TCS/ASR cars, the wheelspeed sensor protrudes through the backing plate and is held in place by one bolt. The hole for the sensor lines up with the stud circle.

HOWEVER, the toothed wheel on the axle that drives the sensor is a little too big and gets in the way of the heads. I carefully drove the studs partway out, sliced off the heads with a dremel, and then drove them the rest of the way out through the sensor hole.

To install the new studs, I had to grind a flat on the side of each head to clear the toothed wheel. I was careful not to overheat them, and sealed the bare spot with touch up paint before installing them. There is still plenty of meat left on the heads.

Removing the axles will not avoid this problem, since the toothed wheel is pressed onto the axle itself, right behind the flange.

I know on my car (a '94) the front studs are exactly 1/4" longer than the rear. Could be a difference in the brakes (LS1 brakes vs LT1) that made them go to same length studs. I stumbled across it by accident, I asked for new rear studs and the parts guy gave me the front ones instead. It wasn't until I went to put them in that I found they were longer. Since I use a 1/4" spacer it worked out perfect.