L98 + bolt-ons = 12.80's!!!

Check this out...I found this..looking for an 11sec LS1 with bolt-ons only....

http://ubb.mfba.org/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=001535

Wow!!!
Gotta run for now...

I wouldn't call Corvette L98 heads a bolt-on.

Tim

Neither would I. I consider bolt-ons items like runners, headers, etc. Things you can add without having to tear down the motor.

Sweet! 12.8's with a bolt on L98?! Nice! :thumb:

They're still L98 heads. At least they're not aftermarket, heck I wonder what it would run with some Darts or AFR's or Pro Toplines. :shock:

-Rippin

Well he says his motor is .040 over, so its not just bolt ones. While the added 7 ci doesnt make much difference, in some cases the little overbore can help unshroud vavles and see decent gains.

Sweet post! I don't really think those mods (Aluminum heads, rebuild) become that big of a factor with that cam, and intake setup. He probably just blew up the original, ya know? :)

Good for him. It's all about combo- and he's running faster than a lot of guys with more hardware. :)

Originally posted by TRAXION
I wouldn't call Corvette L98 heads a bolt-on.

Tim

The heads also have been port matched and had some bowl work done...

Well, basically it's still a stock Vette L98, granted it was bored +.040" maybe blown up at one time. The heads were basically just cleaned up, as they should've came from the factory, one reason late models like LS1's make more power...(cleaner factory design.)BUT:
*stock cam
*stock computer
*stock Vette heads
*stock style TPI
*Caty. convertors
Like he said, basically a Vette spec L98, TPI with all of the bolt-on tricks he could think of..
I gotta say, "Hats off!"...:bow: :bow:

I probably could've went faster with my set up, but I could'nt get the traction I needed, still spun like 30-40ft even on my best effort ET...

Makes my times look like crap, haha. But I cant drive or launch to save my life.

Nice times but like others have said, its not a true bolt on car.

Bolt ons are anything that doesn't touch oil.

Fastest "bolt on" L98 I know of is Mad Mic's 'Vette. I believe he running 13.0-13.1 now. Mainly does it with a big stall converter because his mph isn't that high.

Fastest bolt on LT1 I know of is 12.2. That car is now running 12.0 with 1.6 rockers added.

Fastest bolt on LS1 I know of is 11.5. Another car with a huge stall.

Anytime you run in the 12's is a plus :thumb:

he's kick in my Tail light's .

1991GTA Ramair2: 350TBI-700r4-3.73gear 190,200miles.

best run of 5 run's: 14.86@95.78mph.:cry:

R I P 350TBI:( Died fall 2001@190,500milesof spun rod bearing.:cry:

1987 GTA: L-98 350TPI-700r4-3.23gear 120,000miles.

best of 2 run's: 16.11@88.9mph.:cry:

R I P 87 GTA. Died summer 2003@125,075miles, got hit by drunk driver.:cry:

Rencarnated as Firebird:cry:

Only front clip I had was an 88 firebird so i swapped it on and changed rear bumper. yanked off my shiney Gold GFX :cry: I had Just Painted in spring:cry:

But hopfully By summer 2005 that L-98 is up in the 14's where it should be..........:cool:

MODS DONE BY OLD OWNER:
1.M-A-F Delete.

2.3" High Flow Exhaust.

3. Cone open Element filter.

MODS COMING BY SPRING 2005:

1. Tune up (hasn't had one sence 1989).

2. MSD ignition upgrade.

3. B&M Filter kit shift improver.

4. 3.73 gears.

5. 52mm TB.

6.EdeLbrock Intake,Runner's

7. TB Air Foil.

8.custom burned chip.

9.possably Cam upgrade (292*Dur.525Lift.)

10. 255/50r16 drag radails.

That should be about it.
After istick all of this money in to this heap it will go good for like 2 weakend's on the Avenue.
then it will blow a Rod threw thw block or throw the tranny in to the street..........
God I have faith in my Third gen don't i .......
:bow: :bow: :bow:
Tird Gen law: Spend money fix it up run's good then it yea get home after 2 week end's on the Ave shut the door and evertthing has fell in the street before ya get ta your front door.....
Gotta Love 80's Sport's car's ......:cry: :cry: :cry:

1.M-A-F Delete.

:confused:

91 GTA Ramair2, you must be buying some real "Beaters", I tore my motor down a 180,000miles to freshen it, it spec'ed out Great!
And if normal maintanance is kept up, they hold up rather well!..The only thing I've done is replace door bushings b/c of the long heavy doors...
I've beat on this Iroc for Years!(4years)on the street and weekend trackin'...it's been like a Timex..."takes a licking, and keeps on ticking"..
(this is what I do, you may or may not but..)
You MUST run synthetic oil, which I change every 7500 miles, but the filter once a month and add what's lost...I've revved the begesses out of it without a sound of resistence..
DON'T run it while low on tranny fluid, even a quart..
Fix any and ALL leaky gaskets..
Flush the radiator system with Vinegar every year..
Use an oil squirter and use motor oil on all of your hinges, locks and latches, NO GREASE!..
Keep it waxed to fight rust..and fading
Any unusual noises must be dealt with ASAP, while it's still a small problem..
(Nice cars BTW!..watch the Duration on an EFI cam..)
'80 Sports/Musscle Cars I DO Love'em!!..:bow: :bow: :bow:

MAF delete?! Running 16's confirms this is a bad idea lol!

I ran 14.9 @ 92 with 3.73's, a shift kit, and a flowmaster on a 120,000 car. Oh did I mention the valves float?

Other than that the valve covers had never been cracked so it was a pretty lightly modded car.

I Will be running syinthetic change it every 7,500?? your nut's.

I'll be running amsoil 20W-50<and i'll change the oil filter every 2,000miles. and oil every 4,000 miles.

and "BEATEN" Hell yes Mikey Miles are worst torture ever......
:bow: :eek: :eek: :bow:

Synthetic "doesn't break down", it gets contaminated with combustion materials and dirt, so changing the filter is the big neccessity. Ofcourse filters can only get so much out that is why I change it every 7500, a better filter system and I'll go longer between..:D
I've got 187, 207 on my Suburban and just a 181, 736 on my IROC, which I Mic'd out within acceptable specs, NO rebuild neccessary...;)
I'm just saying that "maintanance is the name of the game", as the years add up for ANY car...
I've NEVER thrown a rod, spun a bearing in a SBC, NEVER...(I did in my wife '86 Honda Accord Lxi, she had when we married..):yuck:

AMSOIL is synthetic.

ir run's 50-55psi cold,But hot it run's 17psi at idle and run's 30-37 psi driving Hot.

So it's about Junk....... I don't like my OIL psi droping below 30 Psi hot at idle once it's Down to 20 psi or less i Mark it has junk......

So then I step up oil change's, this summer it will get a Filter every 1,500miles and oil change every 3,000.:D

$6.43/Qt oil. $35 2-QT filter's.

So once it Become's a leaker and a burner it will get cheap Wal-mart super tech synthetic oil............

I use very reliable Pennzoil Full Synthetic, but I'm not throwing away good oil..:)
And it only takes 10psi @ idle to "float" a crank, and 10psi/1,000 rpm is the benchmark thereafter..
Z28 oil pumps are "High Pressure/ standard volume" pumps, running 55psi @2000 or higher..
Mine was running similar to yours, which sounds pretty normal and acceptable to me..you might try a thick grade b/c sythetics run on the "thin side"... TBI trucks only run 46psi @ 2000 and above, 18-20@idle..

me and 350 chevy's don't last long together.

the 305 lives a little longer under my foot witch is puzzling.

350's love to spin rod bearing's on me #7 most comon but #6 has spun too,Twice i had both #7 and #6 bearing spin on me.

Everey one say your over reving them then.
I had 8 of them 350's never went over 4,750rpm's.

But i have had 11-350's 10 out of 11 Died. the L-98 in the 87 GTA is the one Survivor,And it's tired tho.....

8-350's in 4 year;s went threw My 66 Chevy C-30.

Died with 25,000-37,000 miles only one of these engine's went over 37,000miles....... it went 48,900miles.

truck now has a 406Sbc now at 67,300Miles still running strong Knock on wood.

66 Chevy c-30 dose 67mph@3300rpm. so they where all higher rpm miles But i had a limiter set 4,750rpm.

1-350 in my 81 Blazer withc i junked Died at 175,890miles.

1-350TBI in my 91 GTA but that 350 had 190,500miles when it died.

so 2-350's lived High mile live's and 1- 350 is still going but it's got 125,000miles on it.

but "Mikey miles" are Killer.:bow: :bow: :bow:

Originally posted by 90rocz
I use very reliable Pennzoil Full Synthetic, but I'm not throwing away good oil..:)
And it only takes 10psi @ idle to "float" a crank, and 10psi/1,000 rpm is the benchmark thereafter..
Z28 oil pumps are "High Pressure/ standard volume" pumps, running 55psi @2000 or higher..
Mine was running similar to yours, which sounds pretty normal and acceptable to me..you might try a thick grade b/c sythetics run on the "thin side"... TBI trucks only run 46psi @ 2000 and above, 18-20@idle..

Ya i Been running the 20W-50 but I'm thinking of changing to the AMSOIL SAE60W like i run in all my Company truck's High PerFormance Mechine's.

th 87 GTA I noticed oil under it so i think somthing got Funked up in the little Smash up it had.....
so I'LL have to fix that before i go to the SAE60W AMSOIL cause that stuff is $8.50/Qt.

I drive hard, ALL of the time, the way a Z was meant to be driven. I even got p!ssed at my ROC once and held my foot on the floor in "Park" in the driveway and couldn't spin a bearing!...this was with over 160K on the clock!...350's can rev with the best..:D :cool:
(If you've been killing motors with that oil, I'd change brands!..:D )
Pennsylania oils are proven Good, NON Paraphen(sp?-wax) Base oils...I'm a believer!..
I spun a bearing in my Grand Am V6, but I didn't change the oil like I should've, maybe once a season..:eek: (work beater)

Nah 350's are Just junk buget beater's..........

I been running amsoil in my stuff of year's.

I got engine's with well over 200,000 miles the ru,m like new don't leak Don't burn Don't use oil......

AMSOIL is awsome but them engien's had AMSOIl sence rebuilt as where the 87 GTA had **** oil in it Super tech for the first 118,000 miles.........

I switched to AMSOIL 20w-50 this Summer.....
When i bought the car.....