9" ford rear housing

Has anyone had experience with ordering a 9" ford made up for an F-body? If not, can someone at least point me at a reputable source?

me...ordered mine today in fact. It's comming from Moser with drain and fill plugs installed. You will also need to fab up somthing to mount the sway bar with...(get some larger diameter exhaust brackets)

You're looking at about $625usd plus shipping

Andy

Have they figured out how to do a 3-channel ABS set up yet?

I looked into this a few months back and got a "4-channel or nothing" response from Moser and Mark Williams Enterprises ($$$).

Main reason for looking into a 9" over the GM 12-bolt design was the availability of a helical gear differiential. Heard good things about them, but they don't make one for a 12 bolt though. (well.. Quaife and Torsen at least)

Besides the ABS, do they have any problems with the torque arm design? The last Moser 9" I saw in person had Torque Arm bosses WELDED to the front of the 3rd member. They might have been fine, but the stories I hear of cast iron welding, and welded-bosses on rear ends make me a bit nervous about using such a design unless it is cast into the pumpkin... especially the hp levels people will be putting down if they needed to get into a 9" rear. (12-bolts will hold upto 1000 hp with no real problems from what I'm told). Gear changes are probably as fast with a 12-bolt as they are a 9" with a torque-arm design as well.

Still... there's alot of cool stuff you can get with a 9" rear if you can make it work, which is why I was looking at Mark Williams tricked out 9" designs with serious weight reduction (all I need is something to hold 500 to 700 rwhp or so). ABS is nessesary for me though.

My Moser 9 inch bolted in perfectly. No proplems whatsoever with the tourque arm mount or any other mounting holes. No clue on the abs wasnt a issue for me.
later
Mike

I have a picture & instruction on how to make 3 channel ABS work somewhere, you need a timing gear of a Samuko or something fork lift & you're set!

Thanks for the replies:)
Oldschool: I'll check the Moser site and then I'll have some more questions for you I'm sure.

Steve: This will be a road-race 3rd gen car, no ABS, so that won't be an issue for me. (No fuel injection either...) I'll look into the Williams design too, especially if they have a light one with a good torque arm attachment (not welded onto the pumpkin??). My HP likely won't exceed 400 - 425 but I will be looking at serious torque at relatively low revs (eventually the 355 I am building will be a 383, at least that's the plan).

Mike: Which car did you install the rear into? And of course what was the eventual real cost?

Thanks:bow:

Originally posted by Steve in Seattle
Besides the ABS, do they have any problems with the torque arm design? The last Moser 9" I saw in person had Torque Arm bosses WELDED to the front of the 3rd member. They might have been fine, but the stories I hear of cast iron welding, and welded-bosses on rear ends make me a bit nervous about using such a design unless it is cast into the pumpkin...


Steve, I think you're abit confused on how the TA bracket works on a 9" for 3rd and 4th Gens.

There are some threaded "Tubes" welded onto the HOUSING, which a bracket bolts to. Nothing is welded or even attached to the 3rd Member itself.

Originally posted by KTamez
Steve, I think you're abit confused on how the TA bracket works on a 9" for 3rd and 4th Gens.

There are some threaded "Tubes" welded onto the HOUSING, which a bracket bolts to. Nothing is welded or even attached to the 3rd Member itself.

You beat me to it!
There aren't any welds on the castings

Originally posted by Black Robe
Thanks for the replies:)
Oldschool: I'll check the Moser site and then I'll have some more questions for you I'm sure.

Steve: This will be a road-race 3rd gen car, no ABS, so that won't be an issue for me. (No fuel injection either...) I'll look into the Williams design too, especially if they have a light one with a good torque arm attachment (not welded onto the pumpkin??). My HP likely won't exceed 400 - 425 but I will be looking at serious torque at relatively low revs (eventually the 355 I am building will be a 383, at least that's the plan).

Mike: Which car did you install the rear into? And of course what was the eventual real cost?

Thanks:bow:

for 400-425 hp id look into a smaller rearend, if its a roadrace car, less rotating mass and power to turn a smaller diff would be ideal, so you get more of the power to the ground. a 8.5 inch 10 bolt with aftermarket axles and such is plenty for that power and TQ. the 9 inch will take an easy 10-15hp to turn more and it will weigh alot more unless you spend big bucks on all the lightening mods on it. all in all its just another option if you want to be tht much faster and lighter. cuz unless your running drag slicks and 600hp a 9 inch isnt necessary, just another option for half the price:D

Originally posted by blue 79 Z/28
for 400-425 hp id look into a smaller rearend, if its a roadrace car, less rotating mass and power to turn a smaller diff would be ideal, so you get more of the power to the ground.

That's probably the best summary of the situation I've seen yet...
I've used that 10 bolt rear on a roadrace bigblock TA about 5 years back without failure, and I've used the 9-bolt BW Aussie rear for the last 4 years (welded) on my production (read low HP) IROC with only one failure. I'll be using that Aussie type rearend (until it blows up at least) with this new project, then I'll have to decide what to do about getting something bullet-proof. Thanks for all the good input.