APC Shift Knob NE Good?

I was looking around at the local auto store for a new shift knob for the Ripper. I found a few that were quite nicely stlyed, but I noticed that they attach with 3 set screws rather than with threads. Are these things any good, or are the set screws likely to tear out leaving me with a shifter knob in hand on a hard shift?

first - most likly they will not fit on the ripper, so you'll have to do some grinding (in my case was with Hurst)
second - the screws will hold just fine with the right rubber spacer which comes with the shifter knob.
third - do not get anything from APC because most of their product is a POS which falls appart in the metter of the month.
if you do decide on the aftermarket shifter knob get a good proven name like Sparco or MOMO. Or you can get a MBA, Hurst or BMR a which will bolt right in.
I don't mean to make it into a lecture, just trying to help you to avoid my mistakes :)


Edit: Got to start reading what I type (damn spelling)

Actually, I appreciate the lecture . . . er advice. ;)

I had my doubts about the product when I saw it. You have confirmed what I suspected.

So, where do you find a nice shift knob? I'm not real fussy about the MBA knobs. I've not seen anything that really turns my crank at Afterthoughts Auto. The BM Racing site shows a nice ergo type knob, but I haven't seen it listed for sale by anyone.

Again, thanks for the advice. :D

OK so I went looking around at Momo and Sparco shift knobs and it turns out that they are also they type you install with set screws, and also are only good for up to 14mm stick. The ripper is 16 mm. Any more ideas?

I have a momo shift knob installed on my B&M Ripper shifter. You have to bore out the inside of the knob to get it to fit over the stick. Make sure you grind it deep enough so that the knob doesn't stick up abnormally high. Because the momo knob that I got (Carbon Fiber F16 knob I beleive) comes in two parts...as most of their knobs, you will have to grind down the openning on the lower peice too (the one that screws onto the bottom of the knob to hide the 3 screws. As for the rubber peices that come with it...the biggest one didn't even work that well. It ripped while I was putting in the third screw...and as a result, that third hole got stripped. I would just recomend wrapping some electrical tape around the threads on the stick, only 2 -3 layers or just enough to make the knob fit snug. For awhile, I had nothing between the screws and the stick and the screws would just rattle loose 2 weeks or so, and the knob would just pull off. I actually kept the allen wrench in the cup holder so i could tighten it every once in awhile. But hey...you learn from your mistakes. After i put the e-tape on I haven't had to tighten the 2 screws...and the noise it makes has decreased signifcantly.

Dude any APC products are absolute S**T. They are not even worth the money that It cost to make them. and thats pretty bad IMOP.


Later,
-JOhn

this is the one I have http://sportscar-parts.com/graphics/00000001/STORMsk.jpg and so far I like it alot
I haven't borred the inner part of it because I was afread to skrew it up but insted I grinded the shifter handle a bit to fit in.

Thanks for all the info guys. I think I'm going to go with the Hurst leather knob from SLP. That one screws into place. I've never had a problem with a knob that screws. :D