1980 Z-28 Restoration

My Z has been in storage since 1992 and I'm finally about to embark on it's restoration. I just ordered the following:
650 Speed Demon ZZ4 carb
Heddman Elite Shorties
Radiator
urethane motor and tranny mounts
CE subframe connectors
B&M deep tranny pan
GM performance 8mm wires
next week to order a ZZ4 Crate motor

I'm going to have the 350TH tranny refreshed during the motor R&R and have a 2000 rpm torque converter, and then straight 2-1/2" duels installed.

Assuming all goes smoothly and she passes inspection (no emmissions in MA for pre 1983 I think) I'm going to replace the suspension and then front end. Currently researching that stuff now. The 3 sites I have found to be popular are PST, Vettebrakes, and PS. I don't want to lower, just tighten cornering and roll.

Can I expect a relatively smooth install of the ZZ4? How much of the smog plumbing can I expect to throw away?

I'm especially excited to experience the difference in acceleration and driveability of the 355 horses vs. the stock 190 I am used to. With a stock rear end I should be able to keep the rubber on my tires, right?

This message board (and others) has been a great source of information! I look forward to sharing my ups and downs along the way.

I put a zz4 +hot cam in my 80z28 this past spring, and everything went pretty smooth. Other than guiding the old engine out, and the new one in, I did the entire swap myself in my garage.

Motor mounts are a bitch! You'll find that a distributor wrench is essential, as well as a good selection socket extentions and 'u-joints?' (I don't know what the flexible extensions are called :p ) Get new bolts and locking nuts. I got mine for free from the parts store where I bought my engine. They were only available in metric, which worked out for the best. Being that the metric nuts were a little too large for my cheap distributor wrench, I had to hammer the nut into the wrench. This made it easy to hold the nut while working it into place. Get a few extra, because you're likely to drop a few, and never see them again :p

I've a 2500 stall in mine, and it's not enough for me. You might want to go bigger than 2000, and get a tranny cooler too.

The ZZ4 is a fair bit lighter than the stock engine, so springs with the stock spring rate will not do. You might want to get the car running, then weigh the front end and talk to spring manufacturers about getting the ride height you want.

Toss all the smog and emissions crap - even the charcoal canister.

The stock rear end is more than strong enough to handle 350hp. With 3.42's and street tires, you should pull mid to high 13's at the track at around 103mph. With the hot cam, and the right torque converter you'd be running mid to high 12's at around 109.

If you ever decide to go with the hot cam kit, the 650 carb can be made to work with it. I've a friend with a holley 650 on his, and he runs mid to high 12's all day long.

You may find that starter clearance is an issue, so don't bang em up too much when trying to install them. Mine would not clear the stock starter, so I had to go with a mini starter. Do NOT break the engine in with coated headers, or you'll ruin the finish.

Check the cost on an aluminum rad from a 3rd gen camaro. It's a direct drop in and might be cheaper than whatever you ordered.

You might want to get a throttle linkage kit for the throttle return.

The ZZ4 comes with a piece of crap plastic timing chain cover. Go buy a nice one.

Car will be used often on highway. What about yours? When you say 2500 rpm isn't enough for you, can you be more descriptive?
What type of exhaust and suspension are running?

I replaced my springs a few years ago with springs that match the stock spec. I rebuilt the front end, and installed new shocks - drag shocks in front. I need to either get new front springs, or have mine modified to achieve a level ride height, and to suit my car's role - driving to the track, racing, and cruising once in a while.

My exhaust is 2 1/2", no cats and the biggest flowmasters that would fit (don't remember which ones, as I had them done 10 years ago)

The 2400-2500 stall torque converter engages at around 2000rpm in my car with the current engine, and was similar with my previous, 350hp engine. When I was making 350hp I used to drive my car a fair bit, as it was my only car. I didn't have any drivability issues with that torque converter. It was pretty much perfect for that combo. 1.9x - 2.0x 60' at the track on street tires.

Mebbe I'm just weird, but when I think of the word 'restoration', I think of making it look like it originally did :D Ah well