U must see this

I was trying to get my best after the cam and latest dyno numbers........ When i first came to the track i did a run without changing anything such as tire pressure or taking the tools out of my car and ran 12.6 at 108 with a 2.0 60ft spinning all the way.... The 108 is because i didnt shift to 4th thinking i would get through the traps before i hit the rev limiter, but i was wrong. Still a new best without shifting to 4th is nice :) .

After that i went back to the pits and took everything out of the car and lower the Tire pressure to 20psi.... I did a 7 sec burn out hoping to get 1.760ft or so..... I launched at 5500RPM the face of the car just lifted(Perfect launch) and after that i hear this BOOOOM Clig Clig Clig Clig....... Check out the pic and u wont believe what GM has in our stock parts:

Look at this http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=11

And this
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=12

And this
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=13

This is a close up
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=14

The last one
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedGroup/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=15


CARD BOARD inside our stock Drive shaft......... Do u guys believe this? :confused:
All the time i was worried more about my rear end, but never thought my drive shaft was in danger too. Anyways thank god its the drive shaft and not the rear end. Advice to all the guys pushing alot of HP, change ur drive shaft before it snaps.

Factory aluminum driveshafts are not as strong as everyone thinks. The cardboard is inside the tube to reduce noise.

When I had a custom driveshaft fabricated for my car, the driveline shop said that for drag racing I'd be better off with a steel shaft. 3" x .083. Aluminum shafts can't take the shock as much and you did say you did a 5500 rpm launch.

The factory aluminum shaft is good for street use and eliminates a lot of driveline vibrations but for drag racing, buy a driveshaft designed to take the abuse.

Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
The factory aluminum shaft is good for street use and eliminates a lot of driveline vibrations but for drag racing, buy a driveshaft designed to take the abuse.

I road course more and drag race sometimes....... Im going to buy a new drive shaft so what is good out there for what i want?

i run an Empire all alum 3.5 inch driveshaft I got it from Madman and it was very reasonable priced and i havent had any problems with it at all. The car pulls 1.38 60's

crazy pics.

Nice HP #s though!

After seeing the inside of a guys LS1 ds after he snapped it at the track I sold my LS1 ds and got a 1LE. I couldn't believe how thin the walls were on the LS1, looked like just a few steps up in strength from a Coke can :eek: :D

Dude, thats so cool...he he he lol.

Later,
-JOhn

Thats why I got my spohn:thumb:, that wouldnt happen if you didnt have so much power.:p :D

Thats why I installed a 3" steel shaft with 1350 solid u-joints with the moser 12-bolt. The steel shaft is going to be more durable, but it does transmit a little more vibration and takes a few more horsepower to drive. I consider a steel driveshaft to be somewhat safer than an aluminum one.

Check out my comparison of a 1LE aluminum vs a Spohn steel driveshaft. They weigh 9lbs and 19lbs, respectively. (http://z28.reanimator.org/pics/spohn_vs_1le.jpg)