WheelmanZ28 10-28-2003, 03:52 PM Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a 383 shortblock from Trey. It includes a SCAT 9000 crank, Oliver Billet Rods, Wiseco -20cc dished pistons. The cam is a XE 230/236 with better timing chain and gears. My top end will consist of Combination motorsports stage II heads w/ port matched intake.
I will be using 30# injectors and I have a Walbro 255 gal/hr fuel pump. I have a built 4L60e, Vigi 3200 stall, and new steel driveshaft. I am currently using 3.42 gears.
What would be the best nitrous setup to run on this motor. I want to spray a decent sized shot, but nothing that will overtly stress the rotating assembly. What should I be looking for? Wet shot, dry shot?
Thanx for any opinions or ideas u can contribute.
rpm4lalo 10-28-2003, 04:20 PM Definitely a wet shot.
How about a dual stage? Say 100 shot then add another 100 to give you the 200.
Whatever you do decide to go with....get the wet ket.:)
AndyB 10-28-2003, 06:09 PM Thats pretty close to my combo. I'm wondering how much Hp a scat crank can handle. I'm thinking a dual shot (100/75) would work great :)
WheelmanZ28 10-28-2003, 06:27 PM damn, u guys are suggesting some pretty big stuff :eek:
It was my understanding that the SCAT 9000 crank only supports up to about 500 HP. Shouldn't I be making about that on motor? If i go with too big of a shot of juice, wouldn't that be pushing the limit of that crank?
rpm4lalo 10-28-2003, 06:35 PM If you are worried about the intial torque spike then perhaps a progressive nitrous controller might be what you are looking for.
Even with that crank you should at least hit it with a 150 shot.
Rival 10-29-2003, 04:26 PM People hit 150's on stock crank's and stock motors. I would go 200 at least.
Injuneer 10-29-2003, 04:46 PM Originally posted by WheelmanZ28
Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a 383 shortblock from Trey. It includes a SCAT 9000 crank, Oliver Billet Rods, Wiseco -20cc dished pistons. The cam is a XE 230/236 with better timing chain and gears. My top end will consist of Combination motorsports stage II heads w/ port matched intake.
Odd combination.... a $250 nodular iron crank with a $1,200 set of billet rods?????? The rods are good for 1,000HP.... the crank isn't.
The other issue would be the rings and clearance. The Wisecos probably have the ring pack up fairly high. That makes heat a problem with a big shot, and ring clearance becomes critical. What is the length of the rods? 6.0's would be more of an issue than something shorter.
I'd proceed with care.
WheelmanZ28 10-30-2003, 05:24 PM Originally posted by Injuneer
The other issue would be the rings and clearance. The Wisecos probably have the ring pack up fairly high. That makes heat a problem with a big shot, and ring clearance becomes critical. What is the length of the rods? 6.0's would be more of an issue than something shorter.
They actually are 6" rods, sorry, i forgot to mention that part.
I originally had the same thoughts about the crank as u Fred, but I talked to a bunch of people and they said it would be fine for my application. I don't plan a big shot of nitrous, just enough to get my out of the whole quick when i get my 12 bolt and slicks on.
Originally posted by aggiez28
did trey ever figure out what brand rods he had? a while back he wasnt sure, he just knew billet?
but i believe he thought they were olivers, and his machine shop thought so too.
I'm going by what Trey has told me on the rods. When I get the motor, I'm going to dissassemble it and have pretty much everything hot tanked, and put new bearings in the block. I guess I'll find out for sure then.
My84Z 10-30-2003, 05:42 PM I would swap out the crank and get a nice strong one then shoot a 250 or 300 direct port but that is just me. on your setup I wouldn't go over a 100 shot just to be safe.
dnz28 10-30-2003, 08:00 PM Dont tell him to not go over a 100 shot. A 100 shot not even worth putting on a motor like that. I say 150-200. you probable could go bigger but 150-200 would be a safe number to start with.
TreySpeed 10-30-2003, 11:11 PM Fred:
I got a killer deal on the rods, someone decided to bail on their 383 and couldn't sell them. firgued it couldn't hurt :D
the crank;
it actually MIGHT be forget.
this is what happend. the guy that sold it to me bailed on his project. he said eagle forged. machine shop said he didn't think it was forged, but rather a scat9000. he said he as 75% sure it was a scat 9000 as he had just built a few motors with that crank.
He said he had guys in the 700hp range on the crank so i shouldn't worry with a 450rwhp 383
BIGBADBOWTIE 10-31-2003, 10:57 AM I would not worry about the crank either. I run a 150 out of the hole on a cast GM crank and stock Gm rods. Turn it 6900 through the traps.
rskrause 10-31-2003, 02:51 PM The Scat 9000 is a pretty strong crank. I've never used one, but the material is strong and Scat has a good rep.
Rich Krause
SpeedtechInc 10-31-2003, 03:29 PM I would not be afraid to spray a pretty big shot on a Scat crank either. I have sprayed 175 on a cast crank, stock rods, and cast pistons motor for 90k miles with no problems. The Scat cranks are a good crank for the money. You just really don't hear about a lot of crank failures. Sure it happens but just not that often on street car type of set ups. I have been into Grand Nationals for about 12 years and there have been many people that have made 600+hp on a stock cast crank with the Turbo Buicks and the block will fail before the crank does. Keep in mine that is with a 3.8 liter V6. Just as a side note they have a DOTCC club which stands for Drove Over Ther Crank Club that is for the guys that have busted a block and lost motor pieces during a run! There are a few cars on Turbobuick.com that have gone 9's with a stock cast crank and there are dozens that have gone well into the 10's with the stock crank. Thanks
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