Reinforcing a 10 bolt?????

As I'm know on my 3rd rear end right now I'm getting kinda sick of blowing them out. All my rears have blown out on the street on 315 nittos so I don't really need the rear to withstand a slick however I have 2 complete rears with blown posi's in my garage right now and figured it wouldn't hurt to have on reinforced and toss it in seeing as my buddy can do welding and such for me for next to nothing. My question is this how can I reinforce it so I don't keep blowing them out? I'm definetly gonna have him weld the tubes up to the center section, how much will this help??Also are there any other ways to reinforce it? I've never run a girdle on any of my rears as I've been told from a few people that they are a waste of money, but I'd like to hear some input from you guys on them?
Thanks Brad

When I installed my 4:10's I added at TA style support cover with preload studs, a main bearing stud kit, and used a solid pinion spacer. I've made over 50 hard launches at the track with this setup using both 255 BFG dr's and 275 Nitto dr's and it's held together fine so far (knock on wood :) )

I would go with the style cover that "Gregg 97 Z" recommended.. What parts do you keep breaking?? ring/pinion?? axles?

GREGG 97z I'd seem to get about 100-120 passes on each rear or right around there but hopefully you'll have better luck. Right now I'm getting another rearend, it has 4.10s as well but they it has a mac girdle with the bearing support caps so we'll see how it holds out. The posi in the current rear I have right now is starting to go out :( . FlyinZ on both of my rears it has been the posi that has gone out. Also something weird on each of my rear including my current one which is on its way out the door about 10-15 teeth have been sheered off the reluctor wheel on the posi, I've asked around but no one seems to know what the cause of this is.

Originally posted by stik6shift93
GREGG 97z I'd seem to get about 100-120 passes on each rear or right around there but hopefully you'll have better luck. Right now I'm getting another rearend, it has 4.10s as well but they it has a mac girdle with the bearing support caps so we'll see how it holds out. The posi in the current rear I have right now is starting to go out :( . FlyinZ on both of my rears it has been the posi that has gone out. Also something weird on each of my rear including my current one which is on its way out the door about 10-15 teeth have been sheered off the reluctor wheel on the posi, I've asked around but no one seems to know what the cause of this is.

My posi blew at the strip and most of the mild chunks were stuck to the magnet. Some larger pieces were sitting in the bottom. My reluctor ring was worn down in some areas. However, I think the reluctor ring gets damaged from the debri from the break getting jammed between it and the housing cover...

The best upgrade for your rear is called a 12 bolt ;). Why keep rebuilding the 10 when no mater what you do it will eventually blow. Now some people are lucky like gregg but others like me aren’t. Even if you do all the rebuild work yourself you will eventually spend enough cash to buy a 12 blot. This is really the only safe way of dealing with this problem.

Compliments of thirdgen.org:

Weld the axle tubes all the way around where they go into the housing. The factory only used two spot welds on each tube. This will help keep the tubes from twisting, which will lead to broken axles. The cost was free for me because I am a professional welder and machinist. If you don't know how to weld though, any competent welding shop can do it for you for under $25.
Use 28 spline alloy axles from Drivetrain Direct. They are rated to be 35% stronger than the OEM 28 spline ones. The factory 26-spline axles should be thrown over the nearest hillside! Phone: 888-5844327 EXT. 116. Part number: KA7A7. Cost: $295, which includes new wheel studs that are already pressed in.
Use an aluminum rear end girdle. I chose the one from Summit Racing because it had all the features I was looking for at a very reasonable price. The mounting flange is 1/2" thick which will help increase the rigidity of the housing. It has a fill plug and a drain plug as well. It also has two adjustable allen head studs with large feet on the opposite end that tighten down against the main caps. A lot of places that sell these items will also try to sell you a stud kit for $25 to install it. You don't need them, just go to your local hardware store and buy 10 X 1-1/2" long, 5/16-18 grade eight bolts and flat washers for about $5. These bolts have a clamping force of about 170,000 psi, which is plenty. Phone: 800-230-3030. Part: SUM730755. Cost: $139.99.
If you have plenty of money to spend, JEGS also sells a girdle that accomodates an axle tube brace kit which will stop forward movement of the housing tube ends, eliminating case distortion. These two pieces together were a little too pricey for me, but to each his own! Phone: 800-345-4545. Ultimate girdle part number:619-301-7.5G. Cost:$139.99. Axle tube brace kit part number: 619-341-A. Cost:$129.99.

Use a solid bearing spacer from Drivetrain Direct in place of the stock crush sleeve. It will really help keep the pinion gear from trying to walk up the ring gear, which is a design flaw of these rear ends. Phone: 888-584-4327 EXT. 116. Cost: $21.95.
Use a big BEEFY differential such as the Zexel Torsen available from SLP Engineering. There are two models available: An OEM takeoff from a newer Camaro-Trans Am, which has one conical gear to engage the opposite wheel, or a Heavy Duty unit that has two conical gears. By using this unit your wheels will be solidly locked when you floor it, plus it gives full differentiation in the curves. Also, it never has to be rebuilt because it doesn't have a clutch pack. Phone: 732-349-2109. Part (for takeoff): 6451T Cost (for takeoff): $99.95. Part (heavy duty): 65002. Cost (heavy duty): $299.95.
This next tip is just extra insurance against breaking at the track: replace the stock differential cross pin with one make out of Zytanium. The stock pin has been known to break into pieces on more than one occasion. This pin is not needed when using the Zexel Torsen units because they do not require one. Available from year One Next Generation. Phone: 800-921-9214. Part: D66. Cost: $28.
If you are also changing your gear set be sure to use a high quality gear set such as GM, Richmond, Strange, or US Gear. If you use one of those generic gear sets, you will probably regret it later when you come off the starting line and break a bunch of ring gear teeth.
Use Redline Synthetic Shockproof gear oil and friction modifier. It comes in three formulations: super light, light, heavy. For our third gen cars, I recommend the light one. Available from Summit Racing. Phone: 800-230-3030. Part (gear oil): RED58404. Cost: $7.95 ea. Part (friction modifier): RED80301. Cost: %5.94.

Originally posted by RamAir95TA
$25+$295+$25+$139.99+$129.99+$21.95+$299.95+$28

~$1,000 with shipping and the $299.95 diff isn't the best. An Eaton (~$450) is what I'd recommend. You also need a new ring and pinion for ~$175. And most people can't set up a rear end themselves. Add another $100 for that and you get ~$1,500. Another ~$600 gets you a brand new, fully setup 12-bolt with posi and it will be a lot stronger.

I couldn't recommend putting $1,500 into the stock 10-bolt. No how, no way.

Rich Krause