What clutch (non street twin) to support 500 rwhp??

I'm thinking a star stage 3 carbon or kelvar would work. Do I have any other choices?? I already have the SPEC pressure plate, I just need to order the disc.

I have heard pretty good things concerning the RPS clutch. It seems Star clutches are great for some and horrible for others. I have seen at least 3 Star clutches fail prematurely.

why not mcleod?

Originally posted by sleeperz28
why not mcleod?

Not alot of people are willing to spend a grand on a clutch. I agree 100% that he should be getting a McLeod Street Twin but I was giving him alternatives.

Originally posted by IDOXLR8
Not alot of people are willing to spend a grand on a clutch. I agree 100% that he should be getting a McLeod Street Twin but I was giving him alternatives.

Exactly... I don't think 1000+ for a clutch is justifiable. All I need is a Spec Disc to throw in my car. Whcih series is most streetable but will stil hold?

I had an RPS "turbo" clutch on about 480 HP. Lasted about 1000 miles.

I know it is a lot for a clutch, but honestly when you get to 500+ rwhp I really do not think there is any alternative.

Of course you could do what I did and that is waste a bunch of money TRYING to find a cheaper alternative and failing and end up spending the $800 anyway. Food for thought.

Originally posted by 97TA-WS6-Con
I had an RPS "turbo" clutch on about 480 HP. Lasted about 1000 miles.

I know it is a lot for a clutch, but honestly when you get to 500+ rwhp I really do not think there is any alternative.

Of course you could do what I did and that is waste a bunch of money TRYING to find a cheaper alternative and failing and end up spending the $800 anyway. Food for thought.

Exactly! I was going to get the rps 3 years ago when I had a blower making 410rwhp. Good thing they were on back order for months. I ended up getting in on a gp for the street-twin. Since the power never stops you better just bite the bullet and save money now then spend more in the future, just like 97TA said.

Originally posted by 97TA-WS6-Con
I had an RPS "turbo" clutch on about 480 HP. Lasted about 1000 miles.

I know it is a lot for a clutch, but honestly when you get to 500+ rwhp I really do not think there is any alternative.

Of course you could do what I did and that is waste a bunch of money TRYING to find a cheaper alternative and failing and end up spending the $800 anyway. Food for thought.

I agree 100% because I went through the same thing when I bought my Centercrap.

u can get a street twin from ACA preformance for under 900.
Email him at aca@acaenterprises.com. Tell him Marcin sent ya :)
MArcin

Man I had a feeling that's what I would hear... maybe I can find a sued one.

I also got my Mcleod S/T from ACA Performance for $875, Spend the $ and do it once.

I also agree that if you haven't spend the money already, I would consider doing the street twin from the beginning.

To your questions - I have been using the Spec stage 3 clutch with the newly redesign six pucks and it has worked quite good. It was slipping like crazy after 1000miles on my first sets of dyno runs (seven pulls). But after that first dyno run break ins, it held up fine after that. I didn't take that to the drag to see how it holds up but it worked fine on the street. LJ always says that this clutch is not going to cut it for me at 611rwhp.

I just two weeks ago replaced that with the stage 4 unsprung disk with the new X-pad material. I have to honestly say that this thing is so much more easier to drive than the stage 3 even though there is no springs. I would actually recommend this to make sure that it will hold the power that you want (500+), to avoid having the springs pop out, and is much easier to shift than the stage 3.

From the setup that you are thinking it seems like you will get much more than 500rwhp so might as well do it right the first time.

So the centerforce makes a crappy clutch, what about RAM clutches, any value in these?

Camaro_SS/R, you said you went with the stage 4 w/o springs, is that the Spec stage 4 I assume?

Originally posted by JohnsSS
Camaro_SS/R, you said you went with the stage 4 w/o springs, is that the Spec stage 4 I assume?

Yes. I had the stage 3 (new design), then went with the stage 4 disc and kept the PP from the stage 3. No break in needed and it drove better than the broken in Stage 3. They both did not chatter for me. But I am used to driving "race" clutch.

--Hugh

In my Experience CF has not been bad... It did slip but I was pushing 607 to the wheels! and it slipped after 6 strong street races one after the other... I think that with better heads the CF will simply not widthstand the power...

I have an Al flywheel right now... Will I need a new flywheel with it?

what about the mcleod single disk?

well...

I have sleeperz28's old blower setup :) and the single disc Mcleod and its crap...the pressure plate is junk.........what a waist of money and time......as far as I see you have two choices

one would be the Twin Disc from Mcleod...I call it the do it once and be done with it route

or you could go with the spec stage 3 or 4.....I run the older stage 3 ceramic in my Ls1 ...its a good clutch and nothing that I have done to it has made it wence...but I dont know how long its going to hold up

Let's see, for $875 I got a Mcleod S/T You get a new flywheel far superior to stock, Stainless steel adjustable master cylinder (compared to a pastic stock POS) 2- clutch discs and floater plates, Far better pressure plate, Whats so expensive? I think it's a hell of a deal and this thing has absolutley no slippage whatsoever. Why waste your hard earned money on anything else

I have a street twin waiting to go in, I would either get a Spec stage 4 or if you are serious about using slicks and a power adder get the street twin.

Originally posted by 96 WS6
Exactly... I don't think 1000+ for a clutch is justifiable. All I need is a Spec Disc to throw in my car. Whcih series is most streetable but will stil hold?

$1200 for 4 clutches+ $900 for a Mcleod is alot more justifiable.

I have a twin in my car and I love it. The kit had great instructions, and had all the hardware.

There is one thing that will save a ton of hassels if you ge a steel clutch master cylinder. Instead of reusing the stock U bolt that holds the cylinder to the firewall, weld a pair of nuts onto the cylinder. Then you can use standard bolts to hold the cylinder on. It is much easier to position the cylinder when you don't have to line up the Ubolt.

BBB

i'm not 100% sure on this, but isn't it only like $400 to have the street twin rebuilt if you wear it out? like the others said, do it right the first time.

Originally posted by 383WS6
i'm not 100% sure on this, but isn't it only like $400 to have the street twin rebuilt if you wear it out? like the others said, do it right the first time.

You can buy any part you need for the MCleod such as discs if you need to, So you don't have to buy the whole package again.

any opinions on the spec stage 3i? (sprung iron disk)

The new stage 3 is not iron but a ceramic/carbon mix. The stage 5 is a unsprung sintered iron disk:eek: I have the new stage 3 but it's siting in my room at home untill i can get home from school for more than a weekend to put it in:cry:

If you look at the power I produced that should say a lot for the street-twin.
Another small note:
I was talking with George down at Mcleod about a month ago and they were almost finished with a new disk that will bring the HP capabilities of the clutch to 1400hp. However, im not sure that LT1 block will handle that:confused:
I have had my street twin for 3 years now and have never had problems with it sliping:)

I debated this issue recently and conlcuded that the ST route was the 'final' solution, and I have no regrets.

Look for a GP on them, or contact ACA as mentioned earlier. I paid just under $800 for mine on a GP with them. I put in a Pro5.0 at the same time, and man, what a difference.

I contacted ACA and no reply I got.. I hate when companies dont answer

Originally posted by The Highlander
I contacted ACA and no reply I got.. I hate when companies dont answer

Keep trying. He's pretty reputable.

if you have AIM his s/n is LT1guy95

he has been more than nice to me and has GREAT prices. tell em ramairstyle00 sent ya :D :p

Every one uses the same pressure plate for their clutches.. Valeo is the only one thatmake's the reverse pull.... for our car's anyway.. TO have the twin rebuilt its 325+shipping.. SpEc sucks.. The Mcleod single disk is a great everyday value.. and is stronger than the stocker but won't handle lots of drag racing.. :) I spent 500 on the first spec and then few hunderd's more going back and forth w/ them and ups and stuff... bought a twin and never looked back.. you won't be dissappointed.. just beef up your rear and other things as they will shortly die a horrible death if your aggresive.. :)

They say you need a new flywheel with it...

I already have an aluminum flywheel with my CF.. Cant I use the one I have already?

1 disk is Just not enough!

What do you mean?

Originally posted by The Highlander
They say you need a new flywheel with it...

I already have an aluminum flywheel with my CF.. Cant I use the one I have already?

I am surprised by your post count that you cant answer your own question, the street twin comes with 2 flywheels, 2 disks, pressure plate, and master cylinder. Okay lets kill this thread, here are what I believe to be a general rear wheel power amount each clutch will hold.

<350hp-SLP, Ram, Centerforce, Mcleod single, Spec 2/3

350~450hp, Spec stage 4

>450 Street Twin

Sure we all have friends that had this much with this clutch or it slipped with with X amount of power, like I said this a general guideline. Using Slicks or DR's will shorten the life of any clutch as will nitrous or a blower. Some spec stage 3 owners will disagree with what I am saying about there power capablities, but I think those tiny little springs breaking offers a good reason why it cant take the power.

Post count wont mean what you have dealt with... and before doing anything on my car I consult... Knowing many things doesn't mean you know them all ;)

WEll Said Flip... Too add to that.. i had over a year of racing on my Street Twin w/ just a measley 309rwhp.. Sent it back and only had used just over a 1/10th of the material and had many a more miles left in it.. It has twice the surface area as any other clutch.. For most its more than they will ever need.. But if want a clutch that will do 20-25 passes a day on the strip w/ SLicks.. the twin i feel is the only one going to be able to stand up consitantly.. this thread is dead!!!

i got my street twin from tbyrne but they price matched it to aca's 875. i didnt think a clutch was worth that much till i put it in. i was amazed at how that thing grabs . but it will find the next weakest thing in your drivetrain like the stock 10 bolt if it is still there. very happy with the purchase though