Tensioner issues = munching belts

Well I've munched a few belts recently and at $75 a pop it's getting expensive.:rolleyes:

I've been eating the belts in the inside tensioner pulley (closest to the block). It's almost like the tensioner pulley is too far forward. I still need to take it apart and look into it real good but figured I'd post and see what the scoop is with the SD concepts tensioner.

I've got an ATI D-1 w/ 12 rib belt / tensioner setup from ATI.

I've heard people mention the SD concepts tensioner.....where do you get one, how much and what are the main differences.

Does anyone have any pictures of the SD concepts tensioner?

Does it bolt right up or do you got to do some massaging to get it to work?

Thanks,
Marc

www.sd-concepts.com

I am yet to see a picture of one and have been asking for nearly a year.. You need to send them all your pulleys, all your brackets and your tensioner and they fab it up for you. Then they send everything back and you put it on the car.. Supposedly it works very very well.. It makes the tensioner more like a stock tensioning unit, it's spring loaded and from what I understand, they move the position of the tensioner..

That's my next step, just waiting on my ATI SuperDamper to come in and I'm sending everything to them.. It's like $450 plus shipping..

--Sean

Unfortunately I do not have any pics of the SD concepts tensioner but all I can say is that is works great. I was making 14lbs of boost with a single 6-rib belt and no slippage whatsoever.

IDOXLR8,
What blower were you making 14#'s of boost with on a 6 rib belt?

What is the turnaround time on getting one fabbed up?

Marc

I was making 14lbs of boost out of my F1 blower. The reason for only making 14lbs of boost is because of the huge restriction of the twin intercooler setup. I talked to ATI about it and they told me that the twin intercooler kit is designed for 700 hp and my car made 705 rwhp. It took me either 3 or 4 weeks to get the bracket back. Trust me you will not be disappointed with the SD Concept tensioner. It makes taking belts off a breeze.

How much was it for the SD tensioner, on their site you can't click on it...

I'm in a struggle with my procharger setup...looking for answers...

Originally posted by 01Hawk236
How much was it for the SD tensioner, on their site you can't click on it...

I'm in a struggle with my procharger setup...looking for answers...

I believe I paid $475.00. :)

Sounds like a pricey solution.

Compare that price with Znines, email him at znines@earthlink.net.

Originally posted by Pro Stock John
Sounds like a pricey solution.

Compare that price with Znines, email him at znines@earthlink.net.

I have emailed Chris several times and he has never gotten back to me. :) Is there a better way of getting ahold of him?

Is his tensioner a spring loaded or fixed tensioner? Yeah the SD concepts tensioner is pretty pricey but it works great. :)

This might be a tad off topic, but does anyone know the difference between the LS1 and LT1 Procharger Crank pulleys, RPM outlet has a cog LS1 set for $480? If I can machine on the LS1 crank pulley and save $200, I would rather do so. I have been trying to get a hold of SDC for a while now, without luck. ASP wants $700 for a set and if I remember right SDC quoted me $480 for a LT1 setup.

Thanks
Sean ( 94z D1sc twin IC)

Idox email me at prostockjohn@hotmail.coma and I will give you a daytime fone for chris, I have his persmission.

Originally posted by Pro Stock John
Idox email me at prostockjohn@hotmail.coma and I will give you a daytime fone for chris, I have his persmission.


YOu have mail :) Thanks

I just spoke to Scott of SD Concepts and he lefta VERY good impression on me. I have decided to get the bracket set up as well as a new ATI super dampner.

I sent my bracket etc and they send they will dummy everything up on a motor at there shop and then send it when they are 100% everything will lined up.

I'm very much looking forward to get everything back.

I just wish ATI did all this stuff properly the first time but I guess they try to keep the price of the kits down, :rolleyes:

Originally posted by 97TA-WS6-Con
I just spoke to Scott of SD Concepts and he lefta VERY good impression on me. I have decided to get the bracket set up as well as a new ATI super dampner.

I sent my bracket etc and they send they will dummy everything up on a motor at there shop and then send it when they are 100% everything will lined up.

I'm very much looking forward to get everything back.

I just wish ATI did all this stuff properly the first time but I guess they try to keep the price of the kits down, :rolleyes:

Good choice, you'll be glad you did this ;)

Marc

Is this only for the ATI S/C or the vortechs as well??

The continuing ati tensioner problems is one of the reasons I switched to Vortech.

The Vortech tensioner system uses a stock-factory spring loaded Ford tensioner. 2 holes are drilled in the blower bracket to bolt the tensioner assembly on. A very simple design, but seems to be effective.

The ati tensioner design needs help.

It is not so much that I have had trouble with the tensioner itself, but that I'm constantly chewing up belts and the idle pulley is wearing away.

I THOUGHT it was because I had the belt too tight, but Scott says the problem is because the crank pulley and blower pulley are not perfectly in line with each other.

He also mentioned that when we bolt the crank pulley to the stock balancer it is not a machined surface so the crank pulley has a 'wobble' in almost every case. (I have seen that, when I watch the pulley I see it oscilating).

Add to that the flex in the bracket and the belt is never actually sitting flat on both pulleys. That does make a LOT of sense to me and given my tension pullies being eroded, I'm sure this is what is happening to me.

The most boost I have seen is 13.8# but usually I'm 12- 13# on a 15# pulley. I'm optomistic I should see the maximum potential out of the blower with the new SDCE system.

That being said, Scott said the intake angle, and the fact I still use the orange dryer hose which is causing air turbulance, and that we should ALL being using the biggest air filters made and that the IC is somewhat restrictive, suggests that I'll never be able to get 100% out of the blowers potential but I'm sure I can add a # or 2 with his pulley / bracket set up.

Hey Marc. Scott was actually talking to me about your car. He said you brought the car in and said "....I haver had enough of this. Fix it or douse it in gas and throw a match on it..." LOL.

I know that frustration. Freaking best summer in a 100 years here in Vancouver and I'm driving a Sunfire while the vert is in a million pieces in the garage because the engine builder won't freakin do his job. Had the motor 4 months GRRRRRRR

Anyway, I'm promised the motor back the week of July 5th.

Parting the car out did cross my mind, the LS-1 was a lifesaver as it gave me something decent to drive and race while giving me the ability to stick with my original project......in hindsight I should have bought an LS-1 immeadiaetly after I blew up the 94 but live and learn.

Scott is pretty good to deal with ;)

If I did burn it, I'd have yanked some of the good stuff off it first :)

Marc

I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.

I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here (http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/256387/6) . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.

Originally posted by Live for TAs
I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.

I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here (http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/256387/6) . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.

Good luck with the setup. Keep us posted with the results.

I just aligned the P600B on my motor & was really surprised how far off it was. I had to shim it out (forward) about 1/4" and use longer bolts to attach it to the motor.

I built a spring loaded tensioner using a 5.0 Mustang serpentine tensioner. The details are here (http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/256387/6) . The total cost was about $75. There is a good bit of work involved (taking apart, drilling, etc.), but it beats paying $500 (no slam on SDCE, but I'm overbudget anyway and needed to save a few $). I have not been able to test the tensioner since the motor is out of the car, but at least I know the pulleys are aligned.


Do you still have that write up somewhere?

-B

I always had problems with the ati tensioner, it is a piece of **** IMO. What happens is the tensioner has some deflection in it and it is not centered properly. These cause problems after awhile.

But, I have also had some issues with the Vortech tensioner too. It burned out one of the bearings in the blower. Maybe it was a bad bearing, I don't know. The tensioner comes with the vortech kit, it is a ford tensioner. The front bearing went bad after a few months of use. I told this to vortech rep and he said to lower the tension on the belt. Okay, how?

I've had the same problem. The belt ran close to the rear of the pulley, and, the flange chews up the belt. I took it off and altered the ati set up. Turned it flat all across the face. Also cut ouf 3/8+ on the outside for better rad/ fan clearance. Then, shortened the internal spacer mount to run closer to the spring arm. Still had clearance (about 0.050"). I put a straight edge on the crank pulley, and eye-balled the angular alignment. Then made new spacers on the blower mount to correct parallel alignment. Looks to be good now. Guess you got to look @ every little thing.
Hope this helps...
___
97 383 D1